recently I place a r160 subi diff in the classifieds. after getting a few enquiries I opened it up to double check the ratio and discovered yes it is a 4.44 but it is also a ver2 vlsd. in short this means that the subi input shafts are the same both sides as opposed to some other vlsd diffs which run one longer input shaft (which is necessary to make the lsd work) and one short.
arguably the ver2 diffs are a slighty weaker diff due to only running two spider gears as opposed to the version that run the 4 spiders. I found the following link which explains Subaru diffs pretty well.
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthr ... ?t=2597453
anyway the interesting bit is that both my stock std 1600 r160 stub axles fit perfectly into the Subaru r160 vlsd. within minutes I got thinking maybe I could change a few bits and pieces around and no welding and or machining will be necessary? at the end of the day they would either need to be held in with a circlip as per std Subaru setup or bolted in as per std Datsun setup.
option 1. (not sure of the proper name for it?) but use the shaft that the std 1600 r160 spider gears are mounted on in the Subaru vlsd. this would give me a threaded hole to bolt my stock 1600 stub axles into?
option 2. (slightly more dodgy) cut the tips off the Subaru vlsd shafts that hold the circlips in place and drill and tap them to suit the orginal Datsun bolt that hold the shafts in place. Basically bolting a piece onto the Datsun shafts that will make Subaru circlip setup work.
has anyone ever done this before. although it is classed as a slight weaker unit and I will need to change the tailshaft flange back to the 1600 type on the subi diff it means very little cutting and no welding. if it was successfull it would only be going behind a mild street driven l20b so don't imagine power will cause to much hassle?