Joe,
Ok if i get a high flow oil pump then do i need to install thicker lines and get a larger cooler? also i have heard about alot of people getting heavy duty valve springs, is this worth it in my situation?
Do you mean to imply you have an oil cooler already? Surely not standard?
The only time you would need bigger lines/bigger cooler is if the cooler isn't keeping up with the temperature demands which is unlikely I think.
You get upgraded valve springs because when the intake manifold sees positive pressure that pressure is acting on the upperside of the valves and trys to hold them open. You want to pick the valve spring rate based on the cam you want to run (less crucial for a turbo application) and the amount of boost you want to run. Ie, if you would run 100lb springs without boost but you want to run 20psi, then you run 120lb springs.
Well at the moment i dont even have the turbo on so i was planning going for the biggest A2W cooler i can fit and yes i am going for an aftermarket EMS probably power FC, will the map sensor come with it or is it a seperate purchase?
A lot of computers have the MAP sensor built in so you just run a vacuum line directly to the computer. I've never seen/used a power FC so I couldn't tell you. Personally (that means ignore me if you like) I think the 240z is better suited to a front-mount air/air intercooler. But thats only my opinion - obviously depends greatly what you want to do with the car.
are those injectors just drop right in? or will i have to make a new fuel rail? also is it better to go for bigger injectors and fuel pump than need ? because this is going to be done in 3 stages to get to that HP??
Almost drop in. I had to drill out the intake manifold by 0.5mm or so to get them to slide in. And yes I had to make a custom fuel rail using some fuel rail stock - aluminium extrude honed stuff. Wasn't particularly hard, but then it hasn't worked yet either
when the engine is rebuilt i think it is being taken down to 8:1 or 7:1 (could be wrong) is it possible to bring the compression down too much or is it the less compression i have the more boost i can run?
Less compression means more boost yes. But it also means sluggish off-boost performance (which in turn means it'll take longer to come on to boost). Its a balancing act. The stock L28ET is 7.4:1 which is extremely low for a factory engine (and off boost, it feels it!). Personally, with decent fuel/intercooler/turbocharger/computer I wouldn't be going down to 7.4. I plan to build my L28 with around 7.8:1.
also is it possible that when i am testing my boost limit i up the boost too much and start detonating so bad that I kill a piston or two straight away?
Trick i got told by a track racer in NZ is to get some copper pipe, beat the end flat, drill hole in it, and bolt it to the block. Then put some garden hose over the end and run the hose into the engine bay so you can listen to EXACTLY what the engine is doing. He said when tuning it was clear as day listening down the hose, but you couldn't hear anything outside. If you run forged pistons its unlikely you will destroy a piston straight away, you'd have to be unlucky to destroy a cast one straight away too.
Aslong as you keep an ear out while your engine is being tuned and make sure it doesn't, you should be ok.
Dave
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USA Daily:
2014 Nissan GT-R, very minor modifications for the track
USA Project:
1978 280Z, minor suspension upgrades, VK56DE conversion in progress.
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AUS Race Car:
1973 240Z, L28ET, Autronic, GT35R.
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AUS Project: 1972 1600, 3200km old S15 SR20DET, ground up rebuild.
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