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PostPosted: Mon Mar 10, 2003 7:13 pm 
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Can anyone tell me what i'd need to do to make a bullet proof rear end for my 1600. Street car but will b taken to occassional drags and cct work. I dont want to be snapping axles or anything especially when i fit slicks. Will be lsd. Are subaru r160 o.k? I want something light if possible. Also, what is a c.v joint and how do you go about getting them made? Any info appreciated. Thanks.


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 10, 2003 8:04 pm 
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The strongest Nissan diff readily available is the R200. But they are not light. The R160 is not good for drags with high HP. DR30 used 200s with mechanical LSD. They have CV (constant velocity) joints as std. You will need to have the axles shortened to use them. Without going into technical detail the CV joint rotates as its name says. A std type uni joint accelerates and slows during rotation and will vibrate if the angularity is excessive. as in dumped to the max. :wink:

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 Post subject: rear ends
PostPosted: Mon Mar 10, 2003 8:30 pm 
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Are the Dr30 axles strong enough? Can you strengthen them when they are being shortened? Heat treat/modify spline etc?


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 10, 2003 8:41 pm 
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I'm pretty sure you can just pop out the R200 c.v's and replace them with 260z uni-style input shafts. A cheaper alternative...


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 10, 2003 8:53 pm 
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Location: wellington, NZ
i have a subaru r180 lsd, i pulled out the c.v stub axels to put the standard 1600s u.j ones in, it would have worked all except for the fact that one of the subaru axels is longer on one side as it goes deeper into the diff center. useing just the normal u.j 1600 axels makes the diff work as just a normal non lsd diff, so does anyone no what (if any) longer axel i can use on just the one side? someone mentioned 260z ones? any help would be appreciated if i cant find an axel solution ill either have to get a c.v joint put on the end of my halfshaft and use the existing subaru axel on the one side, or ill have to buy my m8s atessa diff which should have normal lenth axels on both sides.
mike


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 11, 2003 3:23 pm 
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Depends on your budget. I have a friend with a 180B rally car which has a 9 inch which has been converted to IRS (was done for a Commodore originally). It runs some VW axles and commodore CV's. Cost a fair bit, but it's bullet proof.

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 Post subject: CVs and axles
PostPosted: Tue Mar 11, 2003 5:12 pm 
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Location: Western Sydney
I dont know if its done for dato's or even in drags, but we run porsche 930 turbo CV's cause they are bloody bulletproof. cheaper alternative is BMW 7 series - same size, different cage material. THese are mated to modified stubs & box flanges - but there are engineeres all over oz that modify them.

We also run spring steel axles so they have a bit of give when you come of jumps etc to stop from breaking CVs and gearboxes - but I would have thought that the 'twistability' of these axles would give you a frokn brilliant holeshot.

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 11, 2003 7:40 pm 
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has anybody herd any thing about r180 diffs? i have a 77 200b sss and i think i may blow the diff soon cause i have about 290 hp@ wheels. i was just trying to confirm that the diff would bolt in or would require slight modification. does anyone no of any other diffs that are stronger that would be suitable to this type of car.

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 Post subject: r180
PostPosted: Tue Mar 11, 2003 8:39 pm 
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ive got an r180 in my sedan at the moment. Im not a 100% on which axles ive got but the diff bolts straight in to my 1600 no probs. Its just a little bigger (taller in size) than an r160 stocker.
You and i will still need something a little better than one of those. :)


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 11, 2003 11:23 pm 
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what about the r200, do you know how you would go mounting one of those? they are supposed to be good for big power.

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 12, 2003 12:11 am 
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the R200 is longer than the R180 as well as being larger in diameter and weight.
the driveshaft will definitely have to be shortend and im not sure about the width of the driveline in 200B's but id say that the uni's might have to be modified as well. alternatively u could find a set of uni's off a 260 or 280z im just not sure about the width

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 13, 2003 1:11 pm 
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Location: Melbourne
i would (and did) just weld up an R180 diff. bolts in no mods, $200 a pop - welded, easy to find and handle a fair whack of power. Cam Mckinnon runs one of these in his SR 1600 and his recent one has lasted - copping a pounding in both cct racing and drags. if you are on a budget and don't mind changing a diff every now and then, i'd go with that


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