rear suspesion on rally Stanzas need a few mods to make them handle well. Shortening the links for one. Have the specs somewhere. We used very light rear springs with very heavy shocks to get the ass to squat for traction and Aeon hollow springs to stop the axle from bottoming. Depends on how much grunt you have. I much prefer the Stanza for a rally car over the 16. Once you get the rear under control it has better traction & handling. Are you running a H190 LSD as otherwise most of the info we have will not really apply.

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"R.I.P. Baz. 29 April 2022. Thank you for all your contributions to the Datsun community over the years. You will be missed." - OZDAT

What I have in my Stanza Rally Car.

I have a H190 diff, run standard springs, standard link arms, Koni competition shocks. It handles fantastic. I have a Stanza road car which I competed in an autocross once. I got axle tramp off the line which I put down to worn link bushes. In the rally car, I put noalathane bushes in, however the way they sit/sat in the arms so much that they bound and were causing the whole diff assembly not to move as it should.

I have now ground of at a taper the bushes and once the car is back up and running it should be even better.

I originally had stiffer springs in the back, but it felt way to stiff, due to bushes binding or the springs I am unsure of. By the way, the works Stanzas used progessive rate springs AND shocks in the back. You can still get these, brand new, from Reg Cook in NZ. I think the cost was going to be about $600 AUS for this, which I didnt think was too bad.

Baz, I would be interested in the info on shortening the link arms and the reasoning behind this. Is this to cause a different amount of toe-in when one side of the car is compressed?

I have only stuffed around with a 1600 rally car (IRS) and a Mazda RX-2 rally car (Solid rear end) but to get reasonable results for as little as possible, I would run standard springs, the best shocks your can afford re-valved for slighly harder springs than standard (ie re-valved Bilstein's), and replace all the bushes with polyurethane ones (I also recommend cutting 1 or 2 mm's off the steel crush tubes, having free lateral movement in the mounting points for the axle housing doesn't make it handle particularly well)...

Just my opinion...

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Reason for shortening the links was two fold. From memory the std axle has 1.5 degrees rear axle steer. The shorter links reduced this to 0.5
the other was that the diff had a nose down attitude and under full acceleration was then in a straight line to the trans. Was claimed to reduce axle tramp. All I can say on this was that axle tramp was never experienced even with the softest compound and real 209hp . 2140, FIA head with 48s. option box. Will look for the specs on this but dont hold your breath.
BTW oil surge baffles are best fitted in the housing for longevity.

_________________
A little knowledge is a dangerous thing.
www.datsport.com

"R.I.P. Baz. 29 April 2022. Thank you for all your contributions to the Datsun community over the years. You will be missed." - OZDAT

Well I found the specs. I was wrong.
You lengthen the rear links.
Ok here it is
1. Lower the front lower link position by 20mm
2. Lengthen the lower link by 47mm
3. Lengthen the upper link by 28mm

This applies to the H190 works rear axle housing.

forgot to log in again.
See above

forgot to log in again.
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Hey Baz,

Would those tips work on the Gazelle with the H190 as well. I am looking at starting my next Off Road Race car project so I don't have to wait 10 years between cars again.

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Trev

There's something about twin webers at full noise.