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PostPosted: Tue Jul 15, 2003 10:11 pm 
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Joined: Sun May 25, 2003 3:01 pm
Posts: 68
Location: Perth
IN the middle of rebuilding an l-series engine
have most of the parts sourced
but am lacking a "decent" cam at the moment

does anyone know if datrally still exist, cause ive been told they do one the best matched cams for the L-series

an is there any other brands or companies people recomend

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 16, 2003 4:20 am 
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Joined: Tue Mar 04, 2003 4:26 am
Posts: 686
Location: Perth
Hi there give CEC (Camshaft Engerneering Company 94447022) a call.

Ask for the bloke who has the fish tank and shops at Seaview Aquariums.
His name is on the tip of my toungue, just cant spit it out at this moment.

Their address is 20McDonald Street West, Osbourne Park.
I have spoken to him about a nice cam for my L16, he recons he has all the normal mod details plus a few of his own specials.

Friends of mine have used him in the past, he is very knowlageable, will ask you what you actually want to achieve, and will grind you the right cam.

Tell him Rick from Seaview Aquariums gave you the number.

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1970 P510 SSS sedan
1971 P510 wagon + spare shell
197? 180B SSS Coupe
1981 910 SSS with Z18et, Leather interior


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 16, 2003 6:46 pm 
Which state is he in?


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 16, 2003 6:58 pm 
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Joined: Tue Mar 04, 2003 4:26 am
Posts: 686
Location: Perth
He is in Perth.

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1970 P510 SSS sedan
1971 P510 wagon + spare shell
197? 180B SSS Coupe
1981 910 SSS with Z18et, Leather interior


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 16, 2003 8:03 pm 
I got a mild street cam from Crowcams and its nice and torquey for driving to work. I can vouch for Camtech stage three cam had more revs up top. Both good cams. The crow cam didnt need lash pads and cost was $220. Not sure about the Camtech.


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 Post subject: i got a cam
PostPosted: Wed Jul 16, 2003 10:25 pm 
i got a 180bsss cam


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Aug 16, 2003 9:29 pm 
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Joined: Sat Aug 16, 2003 8:51 pm
Posts: 3
sean wrote:
yeah datrally do still exist i just got a cam of them. $100 for a 72deg works copy but then you need special lash pads and new rocker ect all up cost $326.
Special rockers and lash pads won't be needed if you mill head at cam tower side same amount as cam base circle has grounded. Only very high lift cams need longer tail pad in rocker, most will do fine with std rockers. Std rockers are usually also much lighter than those ugly thick rockers..


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Aug 17, 2003 6:44 am 
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Joined: Wed Mar 05, 2003 8:46 am
Posts: 392
Location: Melbourne, Victoria, Australia
By milling the top of the head down you shorten the distance between the crankshaft and camshaft. This causes excess slack in the timing chain, thereby completely rooting the timing of your brand new camshaft. :?

You could then use a vernier or multi-holed camshaft sprocket to correct this, but by then you could've bought the oversized lashpads and avoided the whole situation.

The lashpads don't require the use of special rocker arms, but it's recommended that when you install a new camshaft (reground or billet) that new rockers are also installed.

Cheers,

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Aug 17, 2003 7:47 pm 
Chris G wrote:
By milling the top of the head down you shorten the distance between the crankshaft and camshaft. This causes excess slack in the timing chain, thereby completely rooting the timing of your brand new camshaft. :?
That's not problem at all. Timing chain guides are adjustable so slackness under one chain link can be adjusted with guides and when head milled enough chain can be shortened one link.(btw one link to shorten chain is actually two-links so head have to milled quite a lot before chain could be shortened) If total milling of head is dividable by half chain link length timing stays exactly same at with stock head, which by the way isn't right timing for non-standard cam. Non-standard cam have to timed right and if stock gear's holes won't fit and Nissan's 8-hole chain gear is too expensive std gear can be made more adjustable just drilling more holes to it, std gear can be timed 0, 4 8, 18(one chain link is 18 crank degree) so there's that 10 degree gap and just by drilling those 4 and 8 degree holes straight line to other side ajustability possibilities are 0, 4, 8, 10, 14 and 18. So it needs to drill whopping 2 new holes to cam gear to have std 4 crank degree adjustability to whole gear round. And usually without dyno testing even that 4 degree timing difference is hard enough to notice.


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