hey all

has anyone here purchased one of datsport's fitting kits?

how about a set of his struts and brake upgrades?

any feedback or opinions would be great

cheers all

Hi.

Yes I have purchased the following:

Fitting kit (im using a l20 currently) as well as the R31 Struts and Brakes.
The adjustable rear crossmemebr and R31 Brakes.
The Steering Box brace and Brake Booster and centre handbrake.

Let me say Im very pleased overall. I have just this week finished fitting the above and car is finally of the stands and at mechanics for QLD Trans compliance and some work on the L20.

I have only one problem at the moment, the ride height. With (15 x 6 38mm offset rims) at the rear using the recommended 240k springs is way too high 3" above tyre. I ordered a set of KINGS springs @ standard 240k height and the thing looks like a drag car

The front sits just above the wheels and those 205/50 only just and I mean JUST fit under the front guards, also the inner clearance between the Front Strut and tyre is tight id say less than 10mm. So I'd recommend 195/50 ect over 205s in my experience with 38mm offset rims. I bought new 205s without testing so im stuck with them now.

Fitting of both the front and rear kits was Easy enough, make sure you fit the rear gearbox mounts before you attempt the engine mounts, I spent hours trying to make the 200b mounts (not supplied) fit onto the Datsport crossmember but the problem was the whole engine box assembley sits further back than the reversed home job mounts that were on the car when I bought it. So fit the rear datsport gearbox mount first and save yourself the heartache.

Actually the handbrake assembly using a 200b Centremount handbrake from Datsport had me a bit stumped I could not see how the cable from the handrake pulley connected to the swing mount fixed to underbody of car. So Ive left that in the hands of my mechanic.

So other than the ride height, (ill let u know what height KING 240k springs give best ride height this week) Im very happy. I used his recommended (KYB) shocks as well. Also the steering brace.

I have not tested the car as yet but put my money down on the fact that Baz has been doing this for a while. I found him very helpfull. Oh and VERY BUSY! lol

If you have more questions let me know. malvan@optushome.com.au

Cheers,
Mal

Are they all engineer tested and approved for street use?

Yes my engineer is happy with it all so far and its almost finished.

Uisng Nissan parts makes things very easy for mod plate approval in my experience.

Cheers,
Mal

thanx for the info mate

So the actual fitting kit, the engine bay parts fitted up without any major dramas? I am mainly referring to their fitment to the car rather than to the engine.

Does it look like a good quality job?

How much were the struts?
can you bolt on the 300zx 4 spot calipers he sells?

so the struts are a hell of a lot lower than the standard 1600/180b/200b/240k etc

the fitting kit obviously bolts up with the r31 struts without any dramas?

I know this is a dumb question but you are using this for a 1600 right?

cheers

Have you looked at Maddats kits.
I run one plus his rear disk and R200 brace
and I'm very happy with the quality and how easy
it was to fit plus easy to work on later,like being
able change a clutch the box came out like a old
L series did.
I know Maddat kits are engineered cause that
was a requirment for me when I purchased
mine a couple of years ago.

Jimmy,

I've lost your email addy. Can you drop me a mail to my work account - tim.button@sge.net?

Cheers Dude....

_________________
"I love the smell of Avgas in the morning......."

The maddat kit does sound good and I have talked to Craig in length about it however I amjust looking at options and finding out from people such as yourself what they have bought and their impressions.

So what came in the kit you bought?

Did it fit completely with no problems?
How about the gearbox? Did you have to cut much of the trans tunnel to fit it?
How does the engine sit? enough roomfor thermo fans as well as heater piping etc behind the engine?

any other info?

I was also looking at Baz's brake setups aswell and this is partyly why I am interested in his kits.

cheers mate

The maddat kit does sound good and I have talked to Craig in length about it however I amjust looking at options and finding out from people such as yourself what they have bought and their impressions.

So what came in the kit you bought?

Did it fit completely with no problems?
How about the gearbox? Did you have to cut much of the trans tunnel to fit it?
How does the engine sit? enough roomfor thermo fans as well as heater piping etc behind the engine?

any other info?

I was also looking at Baz's brake setups aswell and this is partyly why I am interested in his kits.

cheers mate

I found using the kit was just like a L series swap over.
The only body mod, as I'd say every kit would involve is
just cutting the trans tunnel to allow the raise section where the
gear stick is to come through the floor.
I run a cut down VK 5L radiator with a big thermo and have plenty
of room.So if you were to use a modern thinner radiator you'd
have more than enough of room.(My next mod.)
I dont have a heater but there room for hoses.
My kit included Engine & G,box X member engine mounts and
steering drag link.I didn't get tail shaft as I've got a R200
or sway bar as I run adjusable sway bars.
At the time what won me on the Maddat kit was going to the
1600 nationals in SA a couple of years running and to see
finished products in his cars and costomers cars that were done
and done right.

yeah it seems the maddat job might be the go.

So just a square cut section behind the original mounting hole for the original shifter?

did you just cover it with carpet or what? angle grind the section out?

how does the quality of the work look?

when i mentioned the radiator i was talking the width of the radiator, ie between the headlights rather than its depth ie distance from front of car to engine.
I am sorta looking at a radiator than is not as wide between the two headlights. any ideas?

you say you are using an r200 diff? is it a uni of c/v job? if it is c/v then how are you getting it to work with the uni join half shafts?

any thing else special you are doing?

any pics?

cheers