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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Nov 11, 2007 9:20 am 
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Location: Canberra
You will probably still need an engineers report, you certainly would in NSW/ACT.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Nov 15, 2007 6:17 pm 
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Joined: Wed Aug 15, 2007 12:48 am
Posts: 80
Location: Melbourne, Northern Suburbs
i have a problem

ive changed:

water pump
thermostat
flushed radiator professionally (was 20% blocked)
changed the gaskets
50% coolant/50% water

my temperature gauge always creeps up to and stays on hot!

i had it pressure tested and laser temperature check today wen i got the radiator flushed

im thinking it could be the sender on the thermostat housing or the reciever on the cluster?

any ideas...
i dont want an aftermarket gauge if i can help it

thanks in advance


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Nov 15, 2007 8:41 pm 
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Joined: Mon Apr 12, 2004 10:44 pm
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Location: On a XR650r, VIC
Pritty sure I seen you again parked on melville rd/bell street dude, was in wz's brown 1600, gave it a rev, i dont think you saw me....

Anyway, just go a aftermarket gauge or try a new temp sender :D

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Nov 18, 2007 12:28 am 
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Joined: Wed Aug 15, 2007 12:48 am
Posts: 80
Location: Melbourne, Northern Suburbs
yea i work at La Botte Pizza there on melville right near the corner!
dam im shattered i woulda love to have seen you datto :(


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Nov 30, 2007 7:19 pm 
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Joined: Wed Aug 15, 2007 12:48 am
Posts: 80
Location: Melbourne, Northern Suburbs
i converted the car to manual
ive changed everything over:

*master/slave cylinders
*pedal frame
*flywheel
*clutch
*spigot bearing
*pressure plate
*bled both transmission fluid and brake fluid in master/slave and refilled
*changed the bearing in transmission

done it all


except:

i need to get my hands on:

*bracket for the transmission (crossmember) and securing bolts

*tailshaft bracket securing bolts

original gear selector



if anyone can point me into the right direction as to where to obtain these parts would be much appreciated

btw, i cant go and buy high tension bolts without knowing their size, etc

it would be easier to get them second hand

thanks in advance

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Dec 05, 2007 2:32 pm 
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Location: Zermatt, Switzerland.
Hi marc, I just saw this post. I also converted my 200B from auto to manual. So here are some answers:

Crossmember - You'll probably have to get this custom made. I just used my original crossmember and got a garage to weld some extra bits of metal on to make it fit. When we did the same thing to my friend's Skyline, he got a whole new bracket made up, cost him $200. I'll send you a photo of mine if you like.

Tailshaft bracket securing bolts - Not quite sure what you mean by this, but if they're the bolts that hold the tailshaft to the floorplan, you should be able to use the same ones.

Original gear selector - I might have a spare one here, if not, one from a 180B should fit as well. Look at wrecker's yards would be my reccomendation.

I might well also have some of the parts you wanted that you mentioned earlier. Let me know what you need. By the way, you're also the first other person I've found on a Datsun forum who lives in Victoria and has a 200B! Good job!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Dec 09, 2007 2:55 pm 
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Joined: Wed Aug 15, 2007 12:48 am
Posts: 80
Location: Melbourne, Northern Suburbs
i need a

manual transmission speedo cable with the gear that goes into the transmission

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Dec 10, 2007 12:44 pm 
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You should be able to use the same speedo cable. Mine was ok. As for the actual gear, didn't the box come with one?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Dec 10, 2007 6:51 pm 
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Location: Melbourne, Northern Suburbs
na it doesnt
it fits in
the tooth goes in on the box
i have checked both sides of the cable
and it seems to be fine
wen i turn the cable from the box without it connected, the speedo goes up
but wen its connected to the box, it doesnt work :(

im gettin a carby tomorrow for $45 from nissan
hopefully this will put an end to the sh*t the carbys caused me :)

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Dec 10, 2007 8:21 pm 
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Location: Zermatt, Switzerland.
Look on eBay for a set of twin SUs from a 180B SSS. They bolt straight on and will give you a fairly reasonable power gain, enough to start making the tyres squeal! They'll set you back about $100 too.

I have an old 4 speed with a speedo drive in it and it was working when in the car, I'll give it to you when you come down.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Dec 14, 2007 6:39 pm 
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Location: Melbourne, Northern Suburbs
more photos uploaded in original post
thanks :)

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 Post subject: tacho problem
PostPosted: Sat Jan 05, 2008 9:52 pm 
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Posts: 80
Location: Melbourne, Northern Suburbs
quick question
i have an aftermarket tacho

i connected the constant wire to a constant power source (to save the face colour setting)

connected the ignition switch appropriately

connected the black wire to ground

connected the light to the parkers/headlights

and the wire to the negative on the coil

i checked it was in the right spot with the - mark on the coil

tacho on back is set to 4 cyl

problem is, that the needle bounces, and the car seems to idle at 3 grand by the tacho

i was thinking either the coil was shithouse

or the tacho is shithouse

or my car isnt tuned 100%

or the ground isnt connected properly, any ideas :)

thanks in advance

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jan 05, 2008 11:55 pm 
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Joined: Fri Aug 03, 2007 12:12 pm
Posts: 680
Location: Newcastle/Port Stephens, NSW
hey.
with the tacho.. you dont have it mounted on its side or nothing?
just normal position.
umm with the bounceing of the needle make sure that no wires at the coil or anywere else at touching each other, causing shorting etc. most likely the constant power wire ? double check connections.
how did you connect the wires with normal male and female conectors, if so make sure you tape them or insulate them so the dont touch bare metal or other wires also.
and if the car has an original tacho sending unit try attatching the wire from the coil to it instead. and make sure you have a good bare metal ground also.
and if all else fails try a new or different tacho.
thats about all i can think of atm.

cheers,

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 07, 2008 3:16 am 
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Joined: Wed Aug 15, 2007 12:48 am
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Location: Melbourne, Northern Suburbs
nah, i used crimps to hook em up, and used electrical tape around it all, i'll take a look at the earth, cos i know earth is a big issue with electrical malfunctions

thanks for the help, i appreciate it ;)

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 07, 2008 10:57 am 
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Joined: Wed Aug 15, 2007 12:48 am
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Location: Melbourne, Northern Suburbs
quick question

i was told to use a regulator on the power line of the tacho to stop the bouncing needle, is this true, and has anyone found a solution to bouncing needle ?

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