Yeah hopefully! It sounds do-able. Bleeding the clutch isn't too hard. What you need to do is get someone lying under the car (person 1), and someone sitting in the car (person 2). Person 1 tightens the bleed valve on the slave cylinder, then person 2 pumps the clutch pedal abvout ten times, holding in on the floor on the final pump. Person 1 then loosens the bleed valve on the slave cylinder, and when all of the fluid has pissed out, tightens in. Do this three of four times and it should be ok. Then re-fill your master cylinder.

Good luck with getting it running!

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green200b - aka Alistair

The fleet:

Australia:
'80 200B GX - the green200b - hibernating
'81 RX-7 - 12A extend port - daily
'74 RX-2 - 13B bridgeport - cruiser

Europe:
'93 200SX - CA18DET - tourer

i would jus do the up down theory same as how u bleed the brakes

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My Cars/money tins
1 1600 rally car
1 1600 Road Car
1 B310 Sunny L18 Race Car
1 Stanza

JP510 talked us through it yet somehow i still muppeted it up. Ill give it another crack tomorrow if its not stupidly hot again.

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Simon,

1978 Stanza, undergoing track spec build.

Exactly as above. The only thing I would add is dont pump the pedal too quick as it may cause air bubbles to form in the fluid, thus defeating the purpose.

If you do this and it still isnt working, you must have a problem somewhere else (obviously). Have you got the arm on the master cylinder adjusted properly? i.e. to get full stroke on the piston when you depress the pedal?

Check both fittings on the line between the master and slave cylinder to ensure they are tight and not leaking air/fluid.

The only other thing I can think of is the master cylinder or slave cylinder may have 5h1t themselves and be leaking fluid past the piston. Check under the car and under the dash (could be interesting to get your tall carcass under their) and see if fluid is leaking out of the master cylinder.

Failing that, are you sure it isnt bleeding and the problem doesnt lie with something else like the clutch arm, pressure plate etc?

Are you getting any movement from the pushrod in the slave cylinder i.e. is it trying to push the clutch arm, or not moving at all

This is usually a pretty ID10T proof job

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What would you attempt to do if you knew you couldnt fail?

13B N/A powered 1600 racecar build (Built, not bought) http://www.ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=12316

Munch Munch, L series pistons for lunch

lol idiot proof. theres no such thing

The process we went through was.

1. back off bleed nipple 1 turn
2. pump pedal (tried slow, then tried fast, then tried REALLY slow)

sometimes we got air, a tiny dribble of fluid but nothing really substantial.

I think what we were doing wrong was leaving the nipple open the whole time not opening and closing it.

So what we SHOULD be doing is

1. pump pedal slowly 4-5 times and hold down to floor.
2. open nipple and bleed out. Shut nipple
3. repeat until no air comes out.

Correct?

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Simon,

1978 Stanza, undergoing track spec build.

the last procedure is correct!

but only open the nipple for a short amount of time, basically the fluid will fly out and once it doesn't have the pressure behind it, close off the nipple, keep repeating process until clutch feels nice, also dont forget to keep topping up the resovoir

best of luck

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http://www.healingchambers.com.au

epic, ill give it a crack asap.

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Simon,

1978 Stanza, undergoing track spec build.

Still stuffing it up somehow

On the bright side my carbs not leaking. It seems the float/needle arent doing their thing properly and having ZERO experience with carbs before its 'fun' tinkering with it to make it work....

START YOU STUPID BASTARD RARARARRARAR

/rant.

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Simon,

1978 Stanza, undergoing track spec build.

So i bought a parts car! Drove it around this morning to work and ill be taking it home this afternoon. Seems to go pretty good. Ill be advertising shortly for a few things that ill be stripping from it.

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Simon,

1978 Stanza, undergoing track spec build.

That thing looks in pretty good nic... sure you wanna split it? I'd have bought it for a daily had it been here...

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If someone put an offer on it worth my while ill on sell it. I could fix it up for rego but due to the L20, rust, busted headlight and indicators etc its not worthwhile. Its worth more to me in parts then as a whole.

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Simon,

1978 Stanza, undergoing track spec build.

$400

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http://www.healingchambers.com.au

$401 ?

It looks neat in the photos, but then again, so does my car.

Are those wheels jellybeans?

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its already gutted sorry, ive had orders for over $800 in parts so far with plenty left on the car.

Yes theyre 14 inch jelly beans. Tyres are shagged on em, theyre sold.

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Simon,

1978 Stanza, undergoing track spec build.

swapped the carb over, still no joy, does the same thing, have 2 things to check out then im taking it to a shop.

1. rotor button could be out 180 degrees.
2. valve timing could be out

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Simon,

1978 Stanza, undergoing track spec build.