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Inboard R180 Inner Side Flange CV.jpg [ 383.21 KiB | Viewed 2792 times ]
Here's a couple of options worth considering:
I am currently using R180 long nose LSD with Nissan 720 front diff axle flanges and my own 6061-T6 adaptor plates. See photo of inboard adaptor.
Outboard I am using my own adaptor with Z31 turbo 4-bolt flange. See photo of (squarish) outboard adaptor.
Both axles are WCR R200 LHS, which are needed to give me correct axle length: I am using modified 240K trailing arms.
Both my adaptors are significantly stronger than WCR ones. However, the weakest links are the R180 flange axle (inside the diff) and the six bolts going through each CV and into the alloy adaptor plates, even though these go into helicoils. Regardless, I do not envisage any problems. My L18 stroker (2.3 litre) EFI naturally aspirated engine puts out 200Hp, much less than the drag racing monsters some are trying to tame.
Note: I am using Gr12.9 bolts to attach the CVs. Every bolt is fitted with both a flat washer and spring washer. I am not using Loctite, because it is extremely hard to assemble these CVs without getting some Moly grease on the threads. Bolts come loose for three reasons: they stretch (this is virtually impossible in this application for Gr12.9 bolts), the helicoils fail (again unlikely if installed correctly and bolts are installed as described here) or they unwind under load/vibration especially if grease has infiltrated the threads or under the washers during assembly. Vibration is the most likely cause bolts coming loose - likely if there is a problem with lubrication of the CV. Bolt heads are cross drilled and lock-wired (not all done at time photos were taken, but done subsequently with 0.032" lock wire). Where bolts go into 6061-T6 aluminium alloy with helicoil inserts, they are torqued to 23ft.lb before being lock wired. Lockwire does NOT provide torque to stop bolt coming undone in the first instance, that is the role of the spring washer. However, lockwire will stop the bolt unwinding only once it has started to come loose. Where bolts go into steel, they are torqued to 30ft.lb.
If I ever decide to install an engine with greater power output, my step-up option is to use R200 long nose diff fitted with S15 helical LSD centre and GTR 6-bolt (evenly spaced) output flanges that have been machined and 6-holes tapped for directly fitting Porsche-type CVs (already completed and ready to go when needed). Bolts (M8 x 1.25 Gr12.9) go straight into the modified GTR output flange, which is all steel. The other end is Z31 turbo 4-bolt with my custom adaptor plate, which I am considering to have machined in CrMo 4130 alloy steel, though this is unlikely to be necessary. The alternative is to use Z31 (non-turbo) 6-bolt axle flange which means I can use the same adaptor as I am currently using inboard. Downside of the R200 upgrade is that I have to make two custom-length axles: left and right will be different lengths. If I go down this path, at the same time I will change to HR31 trailing arms and coilovers, using Z31 axles as I have installed in the 240K trailing arms.