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PostPosted: Mon Aug 10, 2009 7:57 pm 
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Location: Mt. Martha - VIC
At first I ran the breather lines from the fuel bowls to this line, however mine must have been blocked because it wasn't letting any air through and my carbies didn't work when I connected it.

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 15, 2009 7:45 pm 
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Ok done a few more things! Painted the extractors with extractor black, and heat wrapped them. Put the extractors on the head and then bent the carby heat shield to clear the extractor primaries (had to bend them a long way actually!). Started painting the airbox in it's original orange/red colour and also gave half the engine bay a good scrub in preparation for painting. More scrubbing tomorrow and some high pressure water cleaner blasting!
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 16, 2009 8:37 pm 
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Location: Mt. Martha - VIC
Looks awesome man! Great job. I might do something similar with mine when I get my engine rebuilt, if that ever happens...

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 17, 2009 8:57 pm 
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Painted the block tonight :). Ignore the overspray on the head, that's the head that's coming off ;). Got to spray the engine mount and the sump black and it'll be done engine paint wise :).
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Also somewhat of a shot of how high the car sits now :).
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 21, 2009 9:50 am 
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Picked up a 1998 WRX R160 viscous rear diff yesterday. They are the same type as the 200Bs stock diff (R160) so after I'm done with the current round of mods I'll be looking at adapting the viscous LSD shafts for use in the Datsun :).
And the weekend should be nice weather for painting!
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 22, 2009 5:54 pm 
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Did some stuff today.
First up I painted the engine mounts and sump black so the engine looks all nice now.
Then I pulled the existing U67 head off the car and started transferring over the cam (it's just a stock L20B cam, but they are the biggest stock cam you can get for an L 4, so it'll continue to be in this car for now) etc into the A87 head.
After a bit of stuffing around with cam towers it was all good :).
Covered all the surface rust in the engine bay with rust converter and also cleaned up the block ready for the new head.
All good!
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 22, 2009 6:36 pm 
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Location: southern adelaide
nice!

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 22, 2009 6:46 pm 
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That cam you have there is a genuine SSS cam, can tell by the paint code.
set it up on #1 hole on the sprocket.
rotate in clockwise direction only.
when the slot is centered on the "V" as in sighting a rifle.
the crank timing indicator should show 2 degrees BTDC.
That will get the best out of that cam.

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 23, 2009 11:36 pm 
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From memory the SSS and L20B cams are the same, that cam came out of an unopened 1977 L20B so it should be the OEM one as far as I know!
Thanks for the info though ;).

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 23, 2009 11:44 pm 
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I believe the L20B cam is the same as the 180B SSS cam.

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green200b - aka Alistair

The fleet:

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Dato200B wrote:
Green200B has forgotten more about 200Bs than we will ever know.


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 24, 2009 2:34 pm 
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Location: Mt. Martha - VIC
Looks like you'll end up running the same engine setup I have right now!

Extractors, SU's, A87 head and standard 200B cam.

Expect yours will look better, I didn't paint anything.
It goes much harder than a stock 200B does.

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 24, 2009 4:44 pm 
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green200b wrote:
I believe the L20B cam is the same as the 180B SSS cam.
Yes it is the same valve timing as the L20B as I posted many years ago.
Just the way it is dialed in thats the difference,

The camshaft commonly known as a SSS cam started life in the L16 SSS. It's valve timing is 16 52 54 14, has a duration of 248 degrees and is known as a 62 degree cam. The center angle is 108 degrees and the exhaust 110.The standard L16 and some L18's had a duration of 240 degrees. When the anti-pollution issue raised its head Nissan introduced the 62 d. into the passenger range of L16 and L18 series engines and continued this through to the L20B. The purpose of this change was to increase the valve overlap and thus lower the percentage of "NoX". This change caused a small loss of torque at low engine RPM. To compensate Nissan advanced the valve timing by 4 degrees or one hole on the camshaft sprocket. So, L20B and Stanza L16 are 62 degree cams.

The original factory fitted 1600/1800sss cam had the yellow/orange marker.
never ever seen one in a NEW 200B engine & I have seen 1000s.

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 24, 2009 6:39 pm 
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Interesting, so this cam should be a pretty good match for my twin SUs and 2" exhaust then I'm thinking.

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 24, 2009 6:54 pm 
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Oh yeah, this is a loose cam i have laying about, I thought it was L20B as well, it appears to have the same casting marks as the other cam. No paint that i can see though, might have to go out and have a closer squiz at it.
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 24, 2009 9:02 pm 
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Location: bucketts way
Im just starting my rebuild.1977 200BGX.
its yellow auto.looking for left hand doors.
was planing the wing mirrors if i have to paint them.

Im north of newcastle on the buckletts way.

question Is
-I replacing the head to get it road going.original is cracked.
the U69 cast head I got of another engine has no small bolts in the timing case.
im guessing they may have been cut offjust been out to check and head has bolt holes.
both cams are -U20 somesones gone to the trouble of porting it out to the gasket and opening up the firing chamber.it had a shim fitted but with all the material ground off im guessing its not needed??


tommorrows job is to sand blast the manifold.its nowhere near ported to the gasket.

other plan is to fit a L20B out of a bluebird.its got a mild cam.
it ran a basic webber and extractors.

I have a U20 intake manifold to fit,to clean up emission hoses.no ERG valve.
I noticed the cam pictured had this mark.
this is a floor change L20B-610 engine for the USA.basically a ADR27.


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