To continue from the brake spreadsheet guesstimation;

- brake pedal ratio changed to 6:1, see the old small hole, and the new large cylinder welded in higher up, which will house the brake balance bar.






- twin masters (these are wilwoods, not the trusty trojans as first purchased). New plate brazed to the front of the exisitng firewall plate and an additional plate welded to the inside of the firewall for more rigidity. If this is insufficient, a brace can be added to the front of the masters later.





- wilwood superlight 4 pot front callipers. 18" wheels make the discs look small. From the spreadsheet (mostly car mass as dominant factor), they are overkill. The track will tell.





Have braided front hoses and rears ready.
Hard piping of brake lines as we speak, 'P' clipped to chassis.

Transmission tunnel Braided lines are for the fuel back and forth

Right, more detail shots.

- Petrol tank. Standard unit modified. Pic has details. Welds have sealed tank. Will add POR15 type tank sealant internally. Carter lift pump pushes fuel through low pressure filter into surge tank. Not shown.
Then EFI bosch pump draws from surge tank, through high pressure filter to fuel rail up the braided lines. When the tank is in the car, it looks completely standard. Access through the existing spare tire wheel bay, with a flat cover over the top. No spare tire then.
So the surge tank is not connected to the main tank, and the extra vol is. Just testing...



- PS rack/cross member mods, in case your interested. Pic shows the mods, new mount for the bottom seat of the rack, a braced top mount, and a cut out for one of the PS lines. Rack is a Toyota MR2 job, so not exactly a limo turner. Similar car weights, so shouldnt be too over assisted, can change the PS pump revs through new pulley, will adjust this a little way.






- Rear tire/brakes completed. Rebuilt, new discs, calliper seals, hoses, project mu drift pads and plenty of BBQ black to hide the crud.
not exciting unless its making smoke...eh

Some progress of late.

stock er34 injectors replaced with Bosch 550cc x 6, which will cover me for some way over 400hp's at the wheels, turbo/engine strength permitting.





Gaijin back from the brake hose crew, and it looks neat. Wilwood master cylinders have replaced the Trojans, only due to difficulty in finding the resevoirs for them. Groan.





Just for luxury sake, a rear proportioning valve position is included in the rear pipe line inside the cabin. Ignore the interior sound deadening, efforts from the past require restarting.

The engine bay completion continues...

Totally unexciting long range shot of a now race ready weight passenger, and a car shell.
all these detailed pics, arent we building a car?

Showed my Misses the project recently, she had some concerns over the 'attitude' of the vehicle.
Suggested she show concern over the attitiude of the mad driving, little sympathy showing owner.

rb26 N1 'style' water pump. Actually, its rubbish stock version.hmmmm



Should have gone and bought a Davies electric pump instead. Focus....


Anyways,
checking out the exisiting front brake options, it started with the stock er34 (same as s14/15 r32/33/34 sumitomo 4 piston)



But Herberts had a neat looking disc and hat available cheap, which would mount to 4 stud s30 stock hub, using stock sumitomo's. Solid mounted hat to rotor.


But Id wanted a bigger disc, with an ally 5 stud hub, which was not gonna work as a combo, without breaking out the mill again
The disc was light for sure though. Club member may be keen?





But the Arizona Z car stuff, was the ticket. Bolts together, US/NZ rate at $0.87US, it would be very hard to beat it for the $ outlay. Probably too easy now.
Hat-rotor still solid mount, not floating. I Overspeced the rotor to HD, increasing the rotor thickness and number of internal cooling vanes. Increase heat soak potential.

Right then,

This is a boring post.

Firstly, with the plans for a daily driver, think about things I like in a car.
- Clean windscreen!


The squirters are from unknown jap donor car. 4 sprays.

Looking at gauge options, they are suprisingly few.
Autometer, usual fare, but are rather typical?
Autogauge, but unsure of longevity of them
Looked at plenty of American units, but they are oldschool, check out the Cyberdynes, WTF!
Would love some DEFI, but yikes, rather not sell the real daily driver to get 'em.

Need 2 5/8" for centre console, and 5" for dash.

Dash installed and cut outs made for the roll cage around the pillars.





Will look around some more before purchasing.



Hmmm whats going on here.
Decided to ditch a mechanical driven water pump and go electric. ECU will run this. Will gain hp's, more so when its not running at full effort.
Davies Craig 110lt/min arriving soon.
So will have 2 water pumps for sale, one being underdriven (new 'N1 type' one), using a larger pulley. Takers?

Getting back onto the engine bay completion,

plenty of the fiddly bits to go.

Firstly, its biffed back in, the cam covers have been given a rub'n'polish and the coil cover some nasty never dry gloss black. Perfect then.


The new wastegate position (Tial 38mm - hopefully its big enough), which was changed from an underneath pick up on the ex manifold to a top position for flow reasons.
Had heard that boost creep would be gauranteed from some dyno tuners, on the same engine and similar turbo.
Moving it up means gas flow doesnt need to do a 180 to get to the gate, just an easy? 90 deg change. Bottom hole TIG'd up.


90 deg elbow welded to the comp housing outlet, clearance ok to ex man, but will require some heat sheilding to help intercooler do its job.


Comp housing clearance to bonnet?
Dunno yet, have tried and seemed ok, but once gaskets etc are all on it may start a rubbin'.



Oil catch can arrived after waiting a few MONTHS for it to turn up from kazakstan...hmmmm
Quality looks good though, solid, 2l capacity (right for track racing then according to Motorsport
NZ). This will also get hot, being on the , er, hot side. More heat reflection required then.
Squirter bottle pinched from a mates car, and chucked into the corner.



Well hello, the flares have just turned up, surely not from Kazakstan as well?
Better get over and do some trial fitments....finally!

More engine bay stuff;

Got a GREX/Greddy oil filter re-locator from JP off Import Monster (which does cars, motorbikes, 2nd hand, vintage stuff etc, just recently, got a Z432 for sale with 85km, going for $135kAu - yeehaa, and a nice,clean ZG a snip at circa $80k au. The market sure lives on strong in JP.





NISMO clucth also a jp 2nd hand item, about half the weight of stock flyw.





Ill kill the water pump and blank this part off, pull the thermo out and run elec pump & controller.
Biff on a cam gear for the exh.?




Hello, f.glass 1" wider front zg flare, sitting rough.




This gaurds ok, but the other will be the bog sculpture. Rickys f.glass gaurds sure look tidy, especially that the arch is 75mm forward, great for big castor angles....





and for the rear this what we got




Better get back in and finish this flare install , get mr suspension in to measure up.

To gauge the clearance between ground/lowest parts, exhaust back up.
its a 3" SS mandrel tack TIGed into posi for now. Centre muffler lowest part but will sit about 30mm higher than as unsupported here mind








Rear Sus arms are shooting for the stars, thats enough bump


Cut away the lovely quarter I welded in a few years back, and some cables. oops




wheel in at max squish





(smaller temporary) cap screw the gaurds into place, and hey presto,

Full bump including er, bump stop




and at about ride height



and same




Can move this around a bit with coilover heights, but looks about right. Comments please

oh yeah, 125mm total vert wheel travel

Getting exhausted,

another mention of the existing wastgate point, welded up.







Wastegate dump 38mm enters into main exhaust after 1 + metre. Gas flow less turbulant there = less back pressure = more power
The castor arm is a stock unit modified, using energy suspension bushes. I have some tougher alternatives for track. Better get them in then.








Keep it tight boss





could wrap it in heat wrap or get some coating on.

Thought best to get some panels on to work out some colours for the car.

Got the right front gaurd roughly on, prob a little low. Steel gaurd will be sold, and a fibreglass one in place.

Chucked the spoiler on,









Rolled it back for a rough ride height = ok.









New bumper arriving from santa- thanks Mulderghini!









We sprayed up the gaurds in primer to get less contrast with Photoshopping when doing colour schemes. Or probably just my wobbly eyes.


















cant ignore the left side.






Ive picked up a full nolathane bush kit for the rear including more adjustment opportunities, on all sus arms and subframe to chassis mounts. Sway bar adjustments also provided for.

Ill get these in once im out of bed.

More nostalgia.

The mk 1 plans called for NA.

It was the L series build up, aside from the L24 stocker seen previously.

L28 stock insides, cleaned up, Mikunis 40PHH, ex manifold 6-2-1. elec ign. May have made 180 flywheel hp's.


Carb rebuild....gaijin would be quicker to build than those carbs.

But the sound !

Something a turbo will never acheive.

Right then,

its been such a long time between posts, thought best to update the situation;



ER34 rear bushes from Noltec. Trademe have some reasonable prices for these. Frank De Jong is the contact, helpful, delivers for free too.


There is a few missing, kids eh.

Rear subframe bush ready for transplant.




Rear camber arms back in. Bought off trademe, for a sniff over $100, the welding was poor. Ground the welds back, re-tig'd them, and sent back to the Xrayer man for OK. Phew. Dont expect the stock ones to pass certs, WOF etc.





Only the sway bar to go back in, more or less. Oh yeah, struts as well. Ron Millan in today to measure up. Better lose that hand bud.





Big dog tailshaft hoop installed. Tailshaft by Beatties, spec'd for 700hp. Nothing re-used from old skyline, as itll be too weak for thrashing. Hoop required for certification.




Hard to see, but, handbrake mods to bracketry. Single cable to twin, made custom mount.

Gettig back to the business end of the car;

Electric water pump arrived with controller.

Mounting under the intake manifold, probably.

Its the bigger 110l/hr, with fan on the back. Controller is micro-processor. Very 80's...
I jest, but it will be a good addition to the car. Turbo timer, whatever! Run the pump once the engine has stopped for a few minutes.
Good solid fast trips to the dairy then.











Enough of that for now,

10" fan fits ok. Will get two in there.




My pikes peak escudo sized K&N is too big to fit now intake pipe roughly done.
Ill play around with this later this week.
Ignore the coolant hose yah.











Grill aint looking too bad considering. Would prefer the Fairlady version, mesh style. Perhaps someone has a new/nice one in their garage they could sell to me?
swap, please, hello?

Oil blow by 2 litre catch can in, with lovingly welded bracket.
Hoses attached and completed.










Shroud made for the rear of the radiator to intercooler.
It is structural, holding the cooler, along with a bottom support, all in ally.






Bosch cobra water pump for cooler sitting in its home. This is a stock order pump from USA, from a






GReddy type R BOV in its possible home.
Will recycle hot filthy air back into the turbo intake, for max response, and turbo spooling
The cooler is made of 3-4mm plate ally, so we can fit directly to this, with maybe only a little strengthening required.
and everything STILL fits under the stock bonnet...







Intake pipe nice n tight

The whole lot there is rubber mounted, so no cracking.
Wouldnt mind the JP style hundreds of welds style inlet pipe, using sections.






The car is out of here next week, so the clock is ticking!

Next mission, PANEL & PAINT