I'm a little confused with your engrish, but the car looks interesting and I like everything you are doing with it.

Martin, we've been trying to understand him over at the Zed forum for the last couple of months without any success!

_________________
Classic Auto Fabrications:
http://www.ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=31659

http://www.lescollinsracing.com/

Many apologies.
My engrish is bad.
Im haveing intense chemo at the mo and brain fade is common
Ill look to imporove ha ha...

Very nice build so far! Going to be a serious bit of car.

_________________
1972 Datsun 1600, S14 SR20DET Engineered (204rwkW @ 17psi.)
viewtopic.php?t=6579
#SR20Datsun @SR20Datsun

even if your english is sh*t. your taste makes up for it

_________________
510

The club in progress















Speaking about welds
3" SS pipe between resonators, middle of exhaust -ish









Tiller of HMS 'Gaijin'
Autogauge rev and smokey speed meter
3 - 6 other 60mm pending. 3 on dash, 3 mounted in glovebox behind the lid.









these didnt fit. Left one is not what I want, its r34, mine requires a R33 gtr for some reason as on the right. Eh?
Ron Millan getting all bushes into rear end, and shock manfacture. Top spherical mount, lower to rubber mount attachement on hub assembly.














With left over 4" ally intake pipe in hand, an intercooler top up tank, mounted higher than the rest of the coolant in the system. Get rid of some aeration issues -
Noticing the radiator connect only tack welded. handy

.



Local USA old school













Road Race Rally Ltd.
Ron has helped me with shocks and bushes.















Bilsteins, revalved, 200+ lb (cant remember) springs, spherical bearing top mount, ajustable threaded collar height - so a show 'dumping' of the car another 70+mm - not safe for road use...
































Ron also sweated out the old rear subframe bushes for harder types, two rear points have eccentric bolt for further camber change point. Bushes didnt come in plain non adjustable variety, and were economical.

Plenty of work to go,

Panel
Paint
Electrical/ECU install
Interior
ECU Tuning and brake/suspension setup
Cert
WOF/REGO

more or less...perhaps not much considering the journey so far...

Anyways,

Tried the lock to lock with the steering using the MR2 PS rack. Looks like 2.8-ish turns of the 2nd hand Momo wheel purchased off Ebay.au a while back. I will measure up the angles of the wheel at full lock, something the drift crowd increase for greater tail out action.

















More recently, after a chat with Ricky Cooper (races a nice L series NA 240z in Auckland), I was keen to have a look at some fibreglass parts for Gaijin for the two usual reasons;

- lose some easy pounds
- save money at the panel beater

but also picked up the great feature of (in the case of the front gaurds) moving the arch 75mm further forward, which will allow much greater castor angles.
This will give me more camber thru steering change, and a greater self centering effect with the steering.
V8 supercar will run 8 deg+ roughly (did 8 years ago when I turned the spanners for Team Kiwi).

The current castor arms may not be long enough for this, but this is an easy cut/remake/TIG up operation.

Current rough install position a little way out.
Also picked up a bonnet, which is a light (for glass) unit, covers the inspection panel, has mounts included.

Headlight buckets are moulded into the gaurd, metal originals are on Trademe. Overseas shipping not a worry

Also check my other listings for more S30 bits












PM me for manufacturer of these fibreglass parts inc. bonnet and other body parts.

this is an amazing car
still gonna b a daily?

_________________
Shean Connery ish Shexty shex and shtill shexy

1964 hillman minx under resto at the moment
BUT DATSUN COMING AFTER THAT
FORMERLY JDM120Y

99% street

Anyways, after so much toying around, its time the car started going hammer and tongs with the hammer and dollys. Picked up thanks to John.

what a awesome z-car build, love it mate cant wait to see it finished.

_________________
200b Addict since 1998

four words to describe this car

Wish
It
Was
Mine

lovin everything that your doing, cant wait to have the to do this level of work on my own cars

_________________

Right,

the car sits at the next venue, on the outskirts of Auckland where the panel beatin' rates are much less than the usual joints, not to mention their outstanding skills with sheet metal, raging enthusiasim etc etc.

Remembered why I waited for ages to get the car in (mostly my fault), once I walked back in with the car, top crew from first and second impressions. Enjoyed checking out the other classics? and reviewing their butt welding, no added rod/metal. = little to no body filler used.

Lets see what they can manage with this old girl





The fuel rail didnt fit the standard er34 squirters in, so holes machined out, and new collars made to suit the new bosch 6 hole 600cc injectors
er34 squirters sold on, good time for a quick + (crap) pic.







A few oldies also hanging about.
Looks like lots of $ spent on these.
















Front gaurds dont have any internal support nearest the door. There is still the existing panel closer to the front wheel.
Once together & bolted on we can see if its too flimsy.

.


There aint no panel beatin' starting until the cars ride height is set front and rear.

As a requriement for the street, min. 100mm clearance is required.

This was my starter, front and rear lowest parts hanging off the car.

Rear oval superflow type muffler looks ok. Sure takes up some height....




















Take the rear struts out, RR tire sitting on the roughly cut gaurd.
LR doing same to stock inner gaurd.















Clearance about right.














Heaps of suspension geometry going on.



















Note the wee chop into the chassis to ensure max lowering efforts, and no chassis hitting suspension parts.












Take into account sag and we have penty of suspension travel available.
better remember the dimensions next time....

speaking of a travel limiting device,


Rear struts, B4.s revalved with 300lb spring











For the front, oilpan the lowest (ergh, this wont last long , better thing about a gaurd/sheild?).

Wound the front up, using the full strut section moving out of the strut housing, keeping the overall travel the same.

I finished with 110mm ground clearance to the under side of the oil pans lowest point.
Sus arms are horizontal roughly eyeing.












To sort the castor situ with wheel lagging in the gaurd space, dug these japanese castor arms/tension rod from Import monster a while back, when it was affordable with rates.
Nice quality stuff, plenty of beef.


















They offer a little more total length than the modified stocker.





















It still isnt enough. Will get the stock modd'd ones lengthened again.

Wheel further forward, but lets keep going.

It would probably be prudent to get a hold of a castor/camber gauge, would make life easier.























Hello,

a change of face?

frog face