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PostPosted: Fri Mar 20, 2009 12:57 am 
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Location: Perth, WA
Evening/morning guys

Just joined up, got myself a 180B today... She's a bit rough on the outside, gotta chop out some rust from the doors and give her a lick of paint, but the car was obviously a show car some 10 years ago before being given to a hippy chick that let it deteriorate, however the interior... Unsure if its original or not but its immaculate!

Going to smash up some photos tomorrow arvo in the light, but need to ask a few questions... obviously i'm going to browse through and find answers myself, but bunging some Q's up never hurts, no matter how redundant they might be eh?

Firstly, cost of parts... I'm gonna be putting some buckets in the front, so how much should I post for some immaculate 180B front black pleather seats?

Next... brakes, suspension and wheel pcd... what am I looking at being able to do? I've got a shitter 31 wagon that can donate its organs... will be putting the 30e radiator in on the weekend and probably smashing the alternator on from it too, but will the 114.3x4 wheels fit or do the 180b's have 100x4 or something?

I'm bound to have lots of questions... I learned to drive in the paddocks in one of these, bit of nostalgia for me... Plan to get involved with you guys and come cruising when she's got some, how would you say, class. Not that a rusty beige 180B pissing fuel smoke isn't classy, but you know, need that extra doors opening for you class that only non-visible rust holes can provide.


Anyhoo, cheers, hope to catch up in the near future


az


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 20, 2009 2:43 am 
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Location: Perth, WA
Welcome az,

Great to have another person join up in WA(im guessing this is where you are as you havent filled out your location in the user control panel, can you please do this) post some piccys up of the 180b. You can fit r31 gear in but it does take some massaging and adaptation for things to fit. As with most modifications goes trial and error is the way, talk to deza or DNSV1600 on here he has two 180b wags.
Sorry cant help much more than that im a 1600 guy :D

Steve

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 20, 2009 8:45 am 
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Location: Coffs Harbour, NSW
keep the R31 front struts to and adapt them to fit the 180B when you go to lower it, better setup with the when the car is lowered, and better brakes

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 20, 2009 5:00 pm 
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Posts: 31
Location: Perth, WA
Cheers for that guys, Will pull the front end out of the 31 tomorrow...

Here's some pics of the beast, going to make a quick thread in the members rides too with them.

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For 500bux she's a ripper :D


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 24, 2009 9:50 pm 
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Location: Karrinyup, WA
nice work - put it on it's guts with bigger brakes and cam/carb/exhaust/TRX 5 speed and it'll be a sweet cruiser.

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 25, 2009 2:34 am 
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can someone please quickly confirm for me tho;
This is a 610 series 180B yes? That will make it a lot easier for me to hunt down info (your search system here fails).

So far I gather that a direct bolt in front brake upgrade is to use VLT/vs v8 callipers with verada disks. However am struggling to find a straight answer as to what from the 31 will go in.

From eye level, a lot of the parts *seem* to be of similar layout and sizes. I know its leaning too far into absurdity to say it should bolt straight up, but how far off the mark will it be? I understand that the spring diameter from the 31 won't let it fit, but would using the strut, hub and upright from the 31 mate up to the control arms and steering, keeping the 180 spring and top hat? Or just try to get the strut itself in there and leave the rest in place?
And I take it the r31 master cyl won't be a bolt up replacement for the dinosaur 180b one eh? What about clutch master from the 31, and the alternator (not that making custom alternator brackets would be difficult).

Still yet to sit down and have a real play on the car, going to bung on some thermos next week as the battery decided to go swimming in the clutch fan, and the fan decided to donate its blades to the cause. Oh and I believe that the valve seals are knacker'd, but may have a l16 sss motor at my disposal, and from what i've read the l16 head *should* go onto the l18 bottom end; would this be a step backwards for daily power, or would it be better just smashing the whole l16 in and be done with it?
At the very least I imagine the SU's and its manifold will go straight onto the l18 head.

And can someone definitely confirm for me the cars PCD? Again, assuming its 114.3x4, but you know what they say about assumptions; i should just get the **** jack out lol. If anyones wrecking a 180b in perth I want your doors too haha.

Cheers guys

az
(copied for member thread too)


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 26, 2009 1:30 pm 
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Location: Karrinyup, WA
Mad_Hatter wrote:
can someone please quickly confirm for me tho;
This is a 610 series 180B yes? That will make it a lot easier for me to hunt down info (your search system here fails).

So far I gather that a direct bolt in front brake upgrade is to use VLT/vs v8 callipers with verada disks. However am struggling to find a straight answer as to what from the 31 will go in.

rear discs?

From eye level, a lot of the parts *seem* to be of similar layout and sizes. I know its leaning too far into absurdity to say it should bolt straight up, but how far off the mark will it be? I understand that the spring diameter from the 31 won't let it fit, but would using the strut, hub and upright from the 31 mate up to the control arms and steering, keeping the 180 spring and top hat? Or just try to get the strut itself in there and leave the rest in place?
And I take it the r31 master cyl won't be a bolt up replacement for the dinosaur 180b one eh? What about clutch master from the 31, and the alternator (not that making custom alternator brackets would be difficult).

R31 might have an internally regulated alternator, with the 180B being external. requires a slight change of wiring if so.

You might have to chop and change a few parts, like using the R31 balljoint on a 180B LCA, or keep the 180B BJ and just slot in the R31 strut. not sure on spring Ø - but the later model 180B struts have the larger Ø spring, so the R31 strut should be roughly the same...? if not, try fitting the 180B spring and hat to the R31 perch - SOMETIMES this work.



Still yet to sit down and have a real play on the car, going to bung on some thermos next week as the battery decided to go swimming in the clutch fan, and the fan decided to donate its blades to the cause. Oh and I believe that the valve seals are knacker'd, but may have a l16 sss motor at my disposal, and from what I've read the l16 head *should* go onto the l18 bottom end; would this be a step backwards for daily power, or would it be better just smashing the whole l16 in and be done with it?
At the very least I imagine the SU's and its manifold will go straight onto the l18 head.

head and carbs (+ manifold) are directly interchangable. the SSS head may give you a better cam (if it's still htere) but the diff between the A87 and W53(?) heads are nominal - mainly port sizes.

And can someone definitely confirm for me the cars PCD? Again, assuming its 114.3x4, but you know what they say about assumptions; I should just get the **** jack out lol. If anyones wrecking a 180b in perth I want your doors too haha.

4x114.3.

Cheers guys

az
(copied for member thread too)

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 26, 2009 6:39 pm 
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Location: Perth, WA
Thanks Pro, wealth of knowledge :D


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 27, 2009 12:47 pm 
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not really - just done it before.

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 28, 2009 1:21 pm 
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Location: Gosnells, WA
R31 ball joint is a press in item, 180B ball joint is a bolt on item. The 180B ball joint and steering arm will bolt onto the bottom of the R31 strut, but requires a centering ring as the diameters are different.
I think I tired the R31 strut into the 180B strut tower and the spring is too big, but I could be dreamin' too.

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 28, 2009 3:12 pm 
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Yep, its too big.

The spring "seat" on the R31 strut is offset on the strut tube as well, which makes it worse.

To fit the R31 struts you need to cut and grind the R31 spring seat off the strut tube and either weld on one off a 1600 / 180B / 240K / 200B / probably some others, or convert to a coilover setup.

And yep, 610 is the official model number for what we call a 180b in Australia. In other countries it could have been called a 160B, bluebird, 2000GTX, etc, but the model number is always 610.

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 30, 2009 1:36 pm 
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Dave wrote:
Yep, its too big.

The spring "seat" on the R31 strut is offset on the strut tube as well, which makes it worse.

To fit the R31 struts you need to cut and grind the R31 spring seat off the strut tube and either weld on one off a 1600 / 180B / 240K / 200B / probably some others, or convert to a coilover setup.

And yep, 610 is the official model number for what we call a 180b in Australia. In other countries it could have been called a 160B, bluebird, 2000GTX, etc, but the model number is always 610.
can you not just use the brakes then? calipers and discs/bearings the same size?

i SWEAR i've seen R31 front brakes on a 180B.

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 30, 2009 1:49 pm 
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Possibly maybe.

I've never played with the "late" 180B struts (as opposed to the "early" ones that are the same as 1600 ones).

R31 stuff will fit on S12 struts (I have the reverse setup - S12 hubs on R31 struts - mocked up in my 180B at the moment), so the R31 will probably also fit on lot of other Datsun struts.

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 30, 2009 7:34 pm 
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Location: Perth, WA
just put the r31's 205/17/r14's on the 180, gives it around an inch bigger rolling diameter. Now before you all go omg you're mad etcetera, there is method to my madness.
You see I'm the sort who likes to randomly take off out bush to throw my swag on the ground for no other reason than my loathing of society and my need to escape from people. Having the bigger wheels gives me a good inch and a half more ground clearance, abet less suspension travel until I flatten some of the welds in the wheel arches.
Offset is good, clears everything except for at full lock left on an incline she scrubs on the aforementioned welds. Not a drama, we've had 33" muddies under sierras before playing the same game.

[ img ]
(don't mind my 100-mile-an-hour two tone, its keeping the rust under wraps until I can scavange new doors, or make moulds so I can make fibreglass pods to replace the rusted out sections).

Question tho, how do I sort its ghastly positive camber on the front end? Lowering the springs is my initial idea, but can I put spacers in to push it out at all?


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PostPosted: Mon May 04, 2009 4:04 pm 
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Location: Perth, WA
Bit of an interesting thing I discovered on the weekend,

The 180 has absolutely perfect seat rails for mounting buckets... My (cheap) obx seats went straight in needing only one hole on each rail drilled 20mm closer, but the width is spot on, took about 20 minutes to slot them in. With the harness in it makes for a far more exciting ride.
I've dug deeper into the car, and have found a lot of previously mended rust, so I'm thinking this thing won't become much of a project, more just a thrasher until I can find a nicer shell.

But thought i'd share that as we were quite gobsmacked at how easily it all worked. Datsuns win :)

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