Ok, perhaps its the expectations compared with a newer car?

Mine are pretty average on the first few brakes and then come to life with heat in them. You can always get softer pads if your not going to track it.

_________________
1600 Build: http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=59&t=22694

Yes, you're probably right. They are much better than when I had the small can booster. Better again since the booster was serviced.
It's probably the power assist that i'm wishing I had more of. Its good braking for a bit, but when you want to stamp on the pedal it hits a nice hard spot that you've really gotta push to get more performance out of them. But then when the engine goes into vacuum, they start to pick up and work better again!

I might have to resolve myself to the fact that they are as good as they're going to get! Now need to get it on the track so that I can adjust the proportioning valve. Can't seem to work it out when its on the road. Tracking this car was always on the agenda!

After adjusting the bushes, I've noticed a marked increase in handling. I think that the rear left swing arm was moving/wondering under load.

Now need to do an alignment when it settles back in again.
Thinking 1mm toe out on the front.
.05 Neg rear camber and 2mm toe in on the rear.

Hopefully that's a good starting point for a nice responsive handling car.


What spring rate in the rear are you running Trent? I'm considering upping my KDRL-07's to a set of Lovell 795 lb springs instead.

Hopefully my valves for my wheels arrive sometime this week, then i can bolt them back up and take them down for some tyres!

I think I'm leaning towards the Toyo Proxes T1R - 205/50R16.. Sport tyre and slightly better wet weather grip. Baz, you might have a suggestion for tyre size, rear spring rates or alignment specs?

_________________
Ongoing Project: 1972 Datsun 510 S13 SR20Det. http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=17898
New Daily: D22 Navara (The new workhorse)
Retired 12/2016: MY98 Subaru Impreza RX
Previous Car: Restored Green 1972 Datsun 510, Hot L18

Hi Ross,
Before you work on the rear suspension. Tackle the front first.
This will dictate how the rear will be set.

We have come along way since we built those struts for you.
If you wish to track your car, get Trents opinion as to which way you may need to go.

Trents car is a fine example of street friendly & trackable datto.

Re the brakes... remove the pads & sand them with 120 grit on a sheet of glass to clean them.
Then scrub the rotors with stainless steel wool & detergent. wash them of with water & dry them.
Then bed the brakes in with very light braking. This is needed to transfer the pad material onto the rotor.

What pads are fitted?

_________________
A little knowledge is a dangerous thing.
www.datsport.com

"R.I.P. Baz. 29 April 2022. Thank you for all your contributions to the Datsun community over the years. You will be missed." - OZDAT

Hi Baz,
Yeah, I don't even know what these old spring rates are or what they're from to replace them. I know they're black and the original owner who had them before me bought them in circa: 2004? I'm considering welding on a coil over setup, but this old car isn't engineered for that.

What other things have changed other than the strut tops, brake lines and coil setup?

Pads have been scrubed and rotors scrubed also prior to bedding in. They're getting better the more i drive it now. I have Girling pads in there currently, but i'm not sure if they are the higher temp pads. I suspect that they are as they start working well once they're hot.

They'll be good for the track, once I do a few laps then i'll start to be able to fine tune a few things.

Hey Trent, any advice on front end setup and wheel alignment specs mate?

_________________
Ongoing Project: 1972 Datsun 510 S13 SR20Det. http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=17898
New Daily: D22 Navara (The new workhorse)
Retired 12/2016: MY98 Subaru Impreza RX
Previous Car: Restored Green 1972 Datsun 510, Hot L18

Hi Ross, we use 2 different pads on the 280 & 296mm brakes.
Trent has used the street pads at Philip Island with no probs.
They work really well from cold.

He is now using the harder pads which need a warm up.

Your struts can be converted to late spec by changing inserts/springs/ bump stops & camber plates if you want them for track work.

_________________
A little knowledge is a dangerous thing.
www.datsport.com

"R.I.P. Baz. 29 April 2022. Thank you for all your contributions to the Datsun community over the years. You will be missed." - OZDAT

Hmm, well i have the Z31 inserts already which made a big difference, you sold me them about 2 years back.
I will most probably need springs. Bump stops that i have i'll retain. They're in good condition and camber plates will be something down the track after I've had a few runs.

_________________
Ongoing Project: 1972 Datsun 510 S13 SR20Det. http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=17898
New Daily: D22 Navara (The new workhorse)
Retired 12/2016: MY98 Subaru Impreza RX
Previous Car: Restored Green 1972 Datsun 510, Hot L18

Hey Ross,

Highly recommend the setup Baz did for me. I recommend the R1R tires as well. The power goes down incredibly well. Wet weather grip with those tires is a little on edge however I very rarely drive in the rain.

Let me know if you need the specifics and I can dig up my invoices

Handling wise the car is amazing and to keep up with cars 40 years newer and with more power albeit it a little more weight is a testament to the great setup Baz has done.

Cheers,

Trent

_________________
1600 Build: http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=59&t=22694

Ok, Its been a while since an update. I don't really work on this car much anymore.
Anyway, New tyres fitted to the wheels.
Got new valves for them, two of them leaked so had to take them back to the tyre shop. Went with the Toyo R1R. Plenty of grip. Bloody noisy on the road!

I built a new middle muffler/resonator for my car. Made it 3" perf tube with 600mm long. It made no difference! All it did was make the sound louder and deeper. haha, was worth a try.

On a different note, I managed to acquire myself a short nose S15 LSD with low k's on it. Drained the oil out and it still looked like it had colour rather than black!
Came with half shafts and axles.
About to swap the centre into my Long Nose R200. Then i'll go about setting up a custom axle setup. It'll be on a budget, but if they brake, there are plenty of others around making them so no loss other than cost of machining.

If i can work out how to make my pictures smaller again, i'll try and post some pics up.

_________________
Ongoing Project: 1972 Datsun 510 S13 SR20Det. http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=17898
New Daily: D22 Navara (The new workhorse)
Retired 12/2016: MY98 Subaru Impreza RX
Previous Car: Restored Green 1972 Datsun 510, Hot L18

Hi Ross,

I too did exactly the same thing and found exactly the same thing! I made up a 600mm resonator under the car and it did absolutely nothing. My system is in full stainless. My next trick will be to add a 2.5" small insert resonator just after the 4" OD, 3" id resonator.
If that doesn't work, I'll be making up a custom reflection based muffler similar to some of the euro cars in the future.
I'm still sorting my bloody diff though...

_________________
1972 Datsun 1600, S14 SR20DET Engineered (204rwkW @ 17psi.)
viewtopic.php?t=6579
#SR20Datsun @SR20Datsun

Hey Nick, I thought you might have done that already!
Mine worked to reduce some of the top frequencies, but its all the low long frequencies that are the problem. The wavelength at 1900 rpm and again at about 3000rpm is impossible to kill without a reflection/chambered type muffler. Or a 1/4 wave length resonator. But there isn't the space under the car to run that. Not that I can see without some serious work. I don't have that motivation!

I took mine out, I found that adding that longer resonator actually increased the frequency range that I was trying to remove (apparently this can happen, although i'm not sure how or why). I previously had a 14" resonator in there, didn't do much either.

Currently my exhaust sits as 3.5" bellmouth with splitter, to 3" mid section to just behind the gearbox x member then 2.5" to tip. Works fine with my power which isn't much.
I wouldn't bother with a 2.5" resonator. I think you'll find no difference but if you have the material, then i think it'll be worth a try.

My next option, is to make something removable that will quieten the car down a lot when cruising around, but if it goes to the track, i can swap it out.

How have you ran your exhaust through the rear x member? I'm looking for new ways, I've seen Baz's suggestion with the slip joint and springs which looks very neat. But i'm also considering running a fixed 3" through the exhaust hole with flanges on either side to bolt/unbolt?
thoughts?

_________________
Ongoing Project: 1972 Datsun 510 S13 SR20Det. http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=17898
New Daily: D22 Navara (The new workhorse)
Retired 12/2016: MY98 Subaru Impreza RX
Previous Car: Restored Green 1972 Datsun 510, Hot L18

On another note,

Yes, I agree. I'm in the process of sorting my diff out also. I want to try and go down the budget axle route though.

Food for thought, lots of people tend to go either spacers/adapters to go from the 4 bolt Datsun companion flange on the stub axle to say, 5 bolt Porsche style CV's or 6 bolt tripod style CV's. Or go R30/280zx inner tripod style companion flanges to replace the 4 bolt Datsun ones and then use 280zx or other outer tripod style cv's on the axle to bolt up.

Any reason why I couldn't make say a 12mm plate, and weld that to the existing outer CV where the original rear axle would go? Cut off the axle. Then face the plate so its square to the CV. Then line that up and drill and tap a thread to bolt it onto the original Datsun 4 bolt companion flange?

Bolts then wouldn't protrude into the CV cup and it'll save stuffing around trying to find new parts etc. Just have to shorten the axle then!

_________________
Ongoing Project: 1972 Datsun 510 S13 SR20Det. http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=17898
New Daily: D22 Navara (The new workhorse)
Retired 12/2016: MY98 Subaru Impreza RX
Previous Car: Restored Green 1972 Datsun 510, Hot L18

Ross, I have run my exhaust pretty much the standard way. Slightly enlarged on one side and it slips in through with an exhaust clamp over the top. Rubber mounted to the cross-member. My suggestion is to try and isolate the exhaust as much as you can from the chassis. There are a few ways of doing this, and Baz' suggestion and what they did on Cam's car seems to be engineered fairly elegantly.

_________________
1972 Datsun 1600, S14 SR20DET Engineered (204rwkW @ 17psi.)
viewtopic.php?t=6579
#SR20Datsun @SR20Datsun

Yeah. Mine is hung the same way as Baz suggests. I was just wondering about slip joints v bolted v v-band clamps when going through the crossmember. Mine is the slip joint currently but it leaks!

I've braced mine off the gearbox mount. Rubber isolator just before the rear x member where it angles up and two hangers for the muffler.

_________________
Ongoing Project: 1972 Datsun 510 S13 SR20Det. http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=17898
New Daily: D22 Navara (The new workhorse)
Retired 12/2016: MY98 Subaru Impreza RX
Previous Car: Restored Green 1972 Datsun 510, Hot L18

Playing around with Diff's for now.

Am going to try and do an S15 R200 Long nose conversion for cheap. I'll let you know how it goes.

Here is my long nose R200 that i'll fit into my car: She's a bit old. Locked 3.9 currently (very well done), 260z i believe. No half shafts: Basically, this is the S15 diff with the 6 bolt tripod style half shafts! Big and beefy!: Inside is the Helical LSD unit. The crownwheel looks to be in good condition. My R200 is an early model, so i need to get some adapters to take the difference between the 12mm holes of the late model centre to the 10mm holes on the early R200 crownwheel that i'll be using. I'm thinking some alloy or possible copper tube. Once its all located and bolted in tight, the forces really shouldn't be that much that'll break apart.

But onto the Axles: Now, I've stripped one apart, and the aim will be to cut off the splined end where it would go into the S15 rear axle. Then get my mate with a metal lath to bore out say a 12mm thick flange (yet to be determined, I'll need to do a mock up first as the standard flanges on the drive shafts are 1/4" thick which would be ok if I can get bolts on to bolt it up. But if i can't get bolts on, then i'll use a 12mm flange and tap it with the correct thread to bolt in from the rear) to the exact size of the outside of the CV where it steps down (probably with a chamfer on the side to allow it to be welded correctly and with good penetration. Then weld it onto the outer CV front and back. Then have him put it back into the lathe and face it so that it'll spin true.
That will then allow me to bolt the CV onto the Datsun 4 stud stub axle flanges instead of getting the R30/280zx tripod flanges and bolting them on.

Then all that's needed is to shorten the axles by an appropriate amount. And we should have a relatively cheap CV upgrade that will be as strong as I need!

_________________
Ongoing Project: 1972 Datsun 510 S13 SR20Det. http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=17898
New Daily: D22 Navara (The new workhorse)
Retired 12/2016: MY98 Subaru Impreza RX
Previous Car: Restored Green 1972 Datsun 510, Hot L18

While I'm on the Photo's,

This is the excessively long 600mm resonator/muffler that I made that had absolutely no effect whatsoever other than making it deeper in note and it appeared to drone even more! Apparently that can happen. Now, a while back, I'm not sure if you guy's have heard of him or know him, but was talking to a Datsun exhaust Guru, Hakan at who own's Performance Exhaust Centre at Northmead in NSW. I spoke to him once and he was telling me that the muffler i have is normally pretty good, but has a tendency to drone a bit because it doesn't have a bend in the muffler to force some of the sound waves and gasses through to slow it down before it exits.

So while I was playing around with my new TIG. I figured i'd cut up my expensive Hi-Tech muffler.

For those of you who are interested, this is the garbage that they make: What you see there friends, is straight perf tube, packed with long strand fibreglass. That is all.
I measured the tube and with a 400mm long muffler, there is 330mm of per tube that would be exposed to the packing material.

So while I was at it, I decided to cut that tube up, add some more of my own and add some bends to it, doing pie cuts. Just because. Really i was bored more than anything.
Please don't laugh at my welds. I was still getting used to my welder having come from using my mates Kemppi Mastertig, and lets just say, mine is a little different. Welded it all back together, and have added a 2.5" tip rather than a 3" dump tip that was on it before. I've yet to try it since I removed the resonator. I'm interested to see how it goes.

_________________
Ongoing Project: 1972 Datsun 510 S13 SR20Det. http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=17898
New Daily: D22 Navara (The new workhorse)
Retired 12/2016: MY98 Subaru Impreza RX
Previous Car: Restored Green 1972 Datsun 510, Hot L18