damn i love your car, everything i have thought about doing to my next 1600, you have already done, the grill, coilovers plus slammed, cv's, the list goes on

how about these for expensive cv's!! - yes, found that link off your website
http://www.kirkhammotorsports.com/book_aoe/aoe_11.pdf

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http://www.healingchambers.com.au

Nice rear end mate Look forward to seeing it back on the road

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120Y 4DOOR SEDAN SR20DE WITH ITB'S

http://datsun1200.com/modules/newbb/vie ... post494892

holy sh*t! those are nice! thanks for posting that, gives me a good idea of how to tie the bolts together with wire

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build-threads.com

oh cool! i still havnt wired mine because I couldnt figure how, that pic is just what I needed

Also, must have annoyed you that after you put the CVs on you had to remove the diff! I got eager and put mine in without first locking the diff, now I REALLY dont want to remove the shafts again to lock it haha

yeah it was really annoying haha, but i was also paranoid that id installed them wrong and that was the cause of the symptoms in the rear end. I didn't actually take the diff out myself, after having a good look & think about the situation took the easy way out, got my mechanics to take it out. Its actually out now, going to take the diff to get looked at on monday, really hoping its just bearings!

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build-threads.com

FYI the 'hi-tech' vents Todd suggests are more so to increase the life of the CV's. When they get hot, if they're sealed tight they will indeed balloon out, but its the heat trapped in there he's concerned about getting rid of. The Datto BRE CV's have square edged fins on their adaptor flanges to help dissipate the heat.

Interestingly, my WCR CV's were not supplied with washers... dunno if that was on purpose.

mmmmmmmm....this car is absolute PORN

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77' Datsun 180b: wrecked/parts car
76' Datsun 180b: the daily
75' Datsun 180b: the PrOjEcT

What paint did you use on the wheels and grille, and how did you prep each one?

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Sam-U-El/Racer135
1973 B110 - http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=60&t=21539
1972 B110
1978 120Y sdn
1973 B120 - dead
1971 VB110 4dr - sold
Others:
1995 Proton Wira - daily sh#tbox

Any ideas how the dash glows so well? LED's replacing the old wedges? The light is distributed really evenly, looks great!!

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Sam-U-El/Racer135
1973 B110 - http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=60&t=21539
1972 B110
1978 120Y sdn
1973 B120 - dead
1971 VB110 4dr - sold
Others:
1995 Proton Wira - daily sh#tbox

My guess would be the long exposure making the dash lights look brighter than they really are

anth this thing is looking awsome

racer135 couldnt you have just asked what paint he used instead of qouteing with all the pics, it kinda clogs up his thread

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-1969 1600 SR20

Tyrie is right, its just the camera playing tricks on you, long exposure on the photo

cheers jasol

racer135, on the grill I just rubbed it back a bit with some 600 grit and sprayed some cheapo satin black from a can, it's not the best job but I wanted it on the car asap

as for the wheels, you can read about the re-furb in detail here: http://buildthreads.wordpress.com/2009/ ... el-refurb/ I actually used a "wheel paint" from autobarn, its meant to be good for wheels because it has a bit of 'flex' in it, or thats what the guy behind the counter told me
if you get a minute can you edit your post and remove all those pictures you quoted? cheers

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build-threads.com

anth how do you find the t3 front coilovers? im thinking of getting some but im also looking at the maddat ones http://maddat.com.au/products/ck001.htm as they have the proper weld on thread and a 2nd nut to lock it but by the time you buy the springs they work out to $460

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-1969 1600 SR20

the T3's are great, car is still very comfortable even at a low ride height, and there's nothing wrong with the single collar system, in fact I like it better than the traditional double-collar, its much easier this way and also means you can go a bit lower if you run them at their lowest setting (don't think the car would be able to move at that height anyway). Mine ended up costing a bit more than $460, mainly because I went for Koni Yellow shocks, and also the $AUD was at about 70 US cents when I bought everything from T3. Only thing I don't like about the T3 stuff is the camber tops, because they dont have studs pressed into them to bolt to the shock towers, they run a normal nut/bolt system which makes it a little bit of a pain to bolt to the car, but its nothing drastic

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build-threads.com