Hi all,
I need to find out what is involved in putting a FJ into a 1600.....theres reversing the X-member....I can and know how to do that....
just wondering things like g/box x-member....and engine mounts
anyone know the best/easiest way to do it?

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1970 Datsun 1600 CA18DET - SOLD!
1970 KP510 SSS Bluebird coupe
http://www.nzdatsun.com/forums/

hey bro, have you got a motor? i bought one about a month and a half ago, i decided to mount mine myself now rather then buy a kit.
i posted somthing about DIY mounting down the forum abit, no1 seems to have done it much as there was no responce! anyways thats kool we just gota figure it out for ourselves yeh?!?
so yeah ive done my xmember reversed everything that needed doing, washed 1000year old gunk of sandblasted and painted matt black looks mint!
It looks like the fj mounts on the motor will go str8 onto the 1600 rubber mounts which bolt to the xmember. ive also been told that you can bolt the 1600 engine mounts to the fj except swaped from side to side if you understand?
all just rumors at the mo, ill be trialing it all this weekend, they only thing im guna buy is a reversed steering arm.
will let you know how it all goes.

Hey guys i too hope to soon be swapping from L series to FJ20ET being such a car fiend i hope to get mine set up, tidy, reliable and engineered.

Im in the stage of sussing everything out for the swap and i thought id share a list of mods and parts im shopping for...these may not be required in ur setup but i thought it might help get some ideas flying.

Yes i may be missing some items but as i said im trying to suss it all out....

FJ20ET Engine+Gearbox (most complete package i can source)
Fitting kit thru either MADDAT or DATSPORT
(includes mounts, shortened tailshaft and steering arm)
Boot Mounted Battery setup
Oil Catch Tank
Surge Tank
Bosch High Pressure Fuel Pump
Intercooler possibly VR4 Mitsu.
R180 Diff
R31 Rear Brakes+Calipers
Either 200B or 240k struts and brakes
Urvan Remote Brake fluid Resevoir
7/8 Booster
N12 Radiator (Modified Filler Neck)
Mazda 323 RWD Chain Tensioner
Rings & FJ Gasket Kit (possibly Copper Head Gasket)
MADDAT Exhaust Manifold
Strut Brace
Bluebird SIII Fuse box
200B Fuel Tank
Fuel Lines
After Market ECU (Best i can afford at the time)
13B or VL Turbo Injectors
Modified Rear Cross Member (bore exhaust hole to 3inch)
Also Dont forget about added costs to get a Exhaust welded up...

erm...thats all i can think of at the moment but if anyone else out there can add anthing to it let us know... cheers

ps. yeah i hope it will DECM8.... holdens and fords anyhow... hehe

I have fitted an FJ20 to a 510 with NO xmember mods at all
I found that is was far easier to shift the bowl on the sump than stuff around with a reversed xmember and custom sway bar
I used the stock 1600 engine mount insulators to custom FJ20 engine plates, all approved by an engineer.
The same engineer debunked the stock FJ20 mounts as being grossly under engineered
All this means is that the xmember is stock, the steering linkage is stock and everything is sweet

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Regards, Graeme
Just trying to help...
http://nissanman.shutterfly.com/
graemes@internode.on.net

Like Nissanman said, in my 180b i bought, the same setup was used, the sump has been cut and rewelded and engine mounts fabricated using standard 180b rubber mounts.

The engine sits nicely and i can still undo gearbox bolts with ease while the motor is still in the car..

nah...he hasn't got the motor yet ( I'm asking for my flatmate....he hasn't even got the 1600 yet...( 2 weeks ) ....lol )
hmmm....no reversing x-member?...that sounds easier
either of you guys wouldn't have happend to make plans for the custom mounts you made up?
how do you do the sump?...you'd have to move the pickup too?
so doing it that way...you don't have to reverse the steering link either?
is there enough room for a thermo fan and the stock radiator?

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1970 Datsun 1600 CA18DET - SOLD!
1970 KP510 SSS Bluebird coupe
http://www.nzdatsun.com/forums/

hey bro sounds like your going a different way from me then now, well just thought id tell you of my progress tonight anway.
finally lifted the fj up on the hoist, loosly bolted the rubber mounts upto the original fj motor mounts, then bolted my reversed xmember up to all of the above. ALL GOOD!! mates up perfectly!

not dissing anyones advice on the above with regards to not reverseing the xmember etc, but i say if your going to the trouble of flipping the sump around and making a custom oil pickup&dipstick and fabricating engine mounts wouldnt it be less work just to do it the way im doing it?
although nissanmans why does sound very good by means of more room behind the head for gbox removal etc

but then theres still that steering arm issue im guna have to deal with... time will tell i guess!

so you used original 1600 rubber mounts...FJ engine brackets.....and a reversed x-member...and thats it?
awesome ....sounds like the new way to go

also...something to think about for the steering arm....
I went to see a guys SR20DET 1600 he's building up the other day.....
and he's cut his steering arm out in the middle section......and got someone to thread the ends, and place a new section in the middle, so it just goes straight.
the guy who did it ( is an engineer ), said that it would probably be stronger than heating it up and bending it. and only cost him $40 inc materials

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1970 Datsun 1600 CA18DET - SOLD!
1970 KP510 SSS Bluebird coupe
http://www.nzdatsun.com/forums/

I have a heap of drawings and digi pics. showing the custom engine mounts and surgery lines required on the sump.
The mounts then use the stock 1600 insulators to the standard x-member.

I made up a jig out of angle iron to bolt the sump to.
I cut the bowl off one end, cut the flat off the other end, transposed the bits, welded them back on and VIOLA, new sump
Have a look at my Sony Imagestation (on the WWW button) for the white 4 door, there are some pics there of the sump cut and shut.

In my mind, altering the sump was a far cheaper/easier proposition than the reversed x-member, custom sway bar and reversed steering cross rod yada yada yada route.

Extending the oil pickup was fairly simple with a short length of 20mm tubing

_________________
Regards, Graeme
Just trying to help...
http://nissanman.shutterfly.com/
graemes@internode.on.net

saturday arvo update!: my theory wasnt exactly as i planed it, while the motor mounted up to the xmember sweet in the air using standy 1600 rubbers and fj mounts, in the car was a different story.

the motor to high and to far forward, custom engine mounts will probably be a necessity im affraid!

when im refueld with hope after a "not so great day" on the datsun im guna try and bolt 1600 mounts to the fj and see if that sits it down a bit further.
nissan man any chance i could get a copy of those custom engine mounts? they might work for my application.

cheers
mike

sweet...could you send me the drawings for those engine mounts? ( I can open most CAD formats ).
I'll check out your pics soon too
bugger aye?...thought something like that might happen
ah well.....Nissanman's way sounds easy enough too

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1970 Datsun 1600 CA18DET - SOLD!
1970 KP510 SSS Bluebird coupe
http://www.nzdatsun.com/forums/

Well the good news is that my engine sits just right
The bad news is that I can't find the drawings I made of the mounts
I have pics. so I'll post them on the Imagesatation soon.
The sump surgery is on paper so I can fax that to you.
For the mounts, I sat the engine in the car with a 20mm spacer between the sump (modified) and the engine x-member.
The mounts were then designed to retain the engine at that attitude.
Unfortunately, I took no dimensions at the time so the pics. are all I have for you

_________________
Regards, Graeme
Just trying to help...
http://nissanman.shutterfly.com/
graemes@internode.on.net

thats sweet, I wouldn't mind those drawings if you have them ( the sump ones ), but only have a fax at work....and I'm only part time there.
I'll be there on Tuesday afternoon, then friday afternoon.
number there is +64 3 365 0569
Put attn Daniel on it
cheers

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1970 Datsun 1600 CA18DET - SOLD!
1970 KP510 SSS Bluebird coupe
http://www.nzdatsun.com/forums/

This is what I did : (sorry if this is long )

If I did it again I'd take Nissanmans route it makes a lot of sense.

I used a reversed xmember and custom mounts on my fj 1600. I reversed the xmember, leaving the 1600 rubber mounts on. Then fitted the engine and gearbox. Extended the shifter hole and also heated and knocked in the passenger side lower footwell for clearance for the dump pipe. I cut the p/side heater hose as far back as possible (inside the car)and routed it back below the drivers side, cut another hole and used an MR2 heater grommet. Removed the brake line mount on the firewall and bolted the brake line joint straight to it for clearance.
Used a remote brake reservoir from a Nissan van for clearance at the plenum chanber. Fitted the engine and gearbox and positioned it with the crank centred between the chassis rail and leaning back around 3 degrees. Then placed good old pieces of wood and rags between the sump and xmember. Made up some engine mount templates with cardboard and tape. Took them off, measured them and had an engineer make them up out of 4mm steel. Slotted the rubber mounting hole to make fitting a little easier. I used the original steering arm but it was pretty tight.
Used a 180b crossmember modified to fit and new mounts and backing plates on the floor with 180b rubbers. Shortened the tailshaft to suit. Rebent some 5/16 fuel lines from a Silvia with a tube bending tool and routed them where the 1600 ones were. Used a boot- mounted surge tank fed by an Rx7 (series 2 I think) pump, and a BMW 325 EFI pump to the engine. I used an Audi (500 I Think) Radiator and slightly cut down Bluebird hoses.Used a Bluebird throttle cable and pedal assembly. Had the injectors rebuilt and flow-tested, Bought a LINK Ecu (ouch! cost more than the engine but hey) and after replacing the water temp and TPS sensors hooked straight up and ran well straight away.Made a template out of copper piping for the sway bar and had a new 24mm bar made up at a springmakers. The car passed LVV Certification 1st time and the inspector was actually really cool.

I lucked out and had an engine with good compression and a turbo in good condition that ran perfectly for 3 years. That first drive was fantastic. I used to drive a long way home from work and always got blasted by the same Subaru legacy near home once the corners ran out. Then one day he appears in the mirror no doubt thinking "can't that guy buy a decent car like me", pulls out to pass as I change down to 3rd. Its great when the tables turn A 1600 with a stock FJ20 running a whole 8 psi boost will totally walk away from Subaru Legacy.
Good luck with the conversion !

nice
where abouts in South Island to you live?
My flatmate is prob going to do a FJ conversion....and I'm looking to do a SR

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1970 Datsun 1600 CA18DET - SOLD!
1970 KP510 SSS Bluebird coupe
http://www.nzdatsun.com/forums/