Based on a few photos previously in your build, the back end looked high-ish and your suggestion about lowering it a bit will raise the roll centre which will increase the roll stiffness on the back end. You mentioned adding negative camber to the rear and depending on what kind of rear end you are running, this typically lowers the R.C. down. Perhaps just lowering the rear end will add enough camber due to the natural camber change of the semi-trailing arm suspension, so no point in over doing it?
From my research i think lowering the rear will result in the roll center being lower and thus less roll stiffness on the rear. Feel free to correct me?
The back of the car is definately too high, especially in cornering. Maybe this could be due to jacking forces if the roll center is too high on the rear??
Either way the rear is too stiff, the car gets fairly unstable over a particular bump in the track and makes the rear end want to come around.
Hopefully once i lower the rear with the new springs the negative camber will come down to where i want it and the roll stiffness in the rear will reduce.
To get my negative camber on the rear with the raising of the inner pivot (for roll center adjustment) the trailing arms has to be modified at the axle/bearing housing, so i dont really have a good adjustment of camber, except adjusting the inner piviot up or down, which in turn adjusts the roll center.
The old datsun semi trailing arm suspension gets fairly complicated when tuning
The brakes were getting up to temperature. The infra red gun was showing 350 degrees on the front and 300 on the rear. Interestingly the comp 9 and comp 2 pads should work at similar temps to the A1RM.
I know the ferodos are a proven thing so will go with them. There maybe still air in the system somewhere. I am going to have to do some faultfinding.
The diff oil i am running is ULX-110 85w-140. It was recommended by the guy who put together the diff.
I did do a little running in, maybe not enough. It is fairly hard to find a bit of bitumen that i can do figure 8s in with a super loud racecar.
I think a cooler is definately needed. r180's and even r200's seem very prone to overheating with clutchpack centers.
It is a simple task for me. The wiring already has the diff pump installed. Just need to find a small cooler, a place to mount it and some hose
Hopefully going to get it back on the track in the next few weeks. Neet to get a new set of r888 tyres
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