seems to be lots of people already answerd this but this is my question. my car is a dato 1200 used for sprints and hillclimbs. it's got 240k struts with s12 hilux 4 piston calipers (solid disc type) on the front. on the rear it has pintara rear discs and calipers which i think they call r31s. i want to put a 7/8 master on it but i have no idea about this valve to be removed. do i remove it or cut grooves in one . whats the go? i also run a bias valve in the rear brake line. whats the go?

I think you may need a 15/16 MC with that setup...

Read this thread re: RPV http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f= ... 7&start=15

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Classic Auto Fabrications:
http://www.ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=31659

http://www.lescollinsracing.com/

I have run both 15/16 and 7/8 with that setup and to be honest couldnt notice a huge difference in pedal feel. I currenty have 7/8 with a wilwood valve in the rear line. I removed the residual pressure valve from the master cylinder when putting disks on the rear.

thanx guys. just ordered the m/c from the brake place and the bloke is gunna remove it for me. yes he said just remove the valve for the rear. thanx for helping.

picked up my master cylinder today. the bloke removed the little valve for the rear line. i brought it home and checked the front line (the one closest to the fire wall) and it has a valve aswell. i removed it and i'm gunna try it but being a race car i don't know when. have i done the right or wrong thing by removing the valves for the front and rear????????? i'm just trying to avoid a bad day of working the brakes at the track next time. thanx. steve b

I've got a 7/8's in mine with Disc on both ends. I too removed both valves a few weeks ago.
I've driven it a few times since, including a trip to work (45mins each way), didn't have any issues.
Watch out when bleeding though, it'll splash brake fluid out of the reservoirs with no caps on!

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Rod

thanx rod. so your saying just leave the caps on when bleeding. i'l give it a try and write something here once i get it on the track prob. next month. thanx

*sigh*
You don't remove the WHOLE valve - just the end of it, in the rear line.
Then you re-insert the valve back in.

_________________
Classic Auto Fabrications:
http://www.ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=31659

http://www.lescollinsracing.com/

what dose that do.? and what about the valve in the other line?

i ran disc disc with a 240k master(disc drum) and it was fine without removing the valve. they run the same valve front and rear so you shouldnt have to remove it....it never held any pressure that i noticed in the back brakes

my brothers car is the same, runs disc drum master on disc disc setup, same with another mates car. none have had the valve removed and none hold any noticable pressure in the rear lines

think i may have even tested it when i first went to disc disc as i had heard lots of talk of having to remove the valve

removed both valves and have sinse done a race meeting at wakefield pk (aasa mra), and 2 hillclimbs and it works great. rod f is correct when he says watch out 4 the splash back when bleeding. not a big problem though