I could never lock the handbrake on my r31 skyline, so doesn't surprise me that it doesn't work on a datsun either.

The rachet style handbrake mechanism in them isn't really designed for that kind of abuse. Even if they do work you eventually just stretched the cable, so not really worth it.

Hydraulic is the only way if you want to stick with that caliper and lock it up easily. Unless you want to go internal drum handbrake using some other brakes (alot better option, just alot more work since no one makes a kit).

Floor mounted handbrake's are much more convenient, but for me I prefer the under dash one, just reminds me I'm driving a datsun.

I am against the original position of the std handbrake lever in 510s.
Just as much as the early spear steering column.
Whilst I have personal experience with a split sternum from a spear column,

I have also seen the results from a 1600 underdash handbrake lever.
It is nicely positioned to remove your left knee cap.

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A little knowledge is a dangerous thing.
www.datsport.com

"R.I.P. Baz. 29 April 2022. Thank you for all your contributions to the Datsun community over the years. You will be missed." - OZDAT

Thats a good enough reason for me to not want one, at 185cm (6ft2") i want all the free leg room possible, i'm notorious for hitting my knee on anything hanging down under a dash in a car - electric trailer brake setups are the worst

In my s13, which uses the same setup as the R31, getting the rears to lock up is all about knowing how the caliper works as a handbrake, and knwing how to adjust it properly, there is a bit of trial and error, and different people have different opinions on the setup and how to adjust it,

but for me and how it worked perfectly, i used this method, usually done when changing pads/rotors
-back off the handbrake cable completely so it is slack and at the end of its thread
-remove caliper off mount
-dual process of winding caliper piston back and pushing it back too, as the winding process is for the handbrake mechanism
-replace pads and rotor
-refit caliper
now this is where everyone has there different views on setting the handbrake up, i do it this way
-take up any slack between pad and rotor by applying the brakes to push caliper pistons out
-then with car on ground/wheels on, reverse slowly whilst applying brakes
-do that a few times
-check how much slack is in the cable
-take up initial slack in handbrake cable, so when you pull up the handbrake, it starts catching the brakes
-check cable length/stretch and that there is still plenty of adjustment left
-adjust handbrake so that there is no more than 8 clicks to fully locked

-go test out reverse j turns, 180 turns, etc at nearest motorkhana


Of course, all of this is pointless if the handbrake cable setup is not the correct length or fouling/catching on parts

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http://www.healingchambers.com.au

how hard is it to do this conversion?

if you paid some 1 to do it how much would you be looking at?

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120y (sold)
Rodeo Dually (daily)
510 sedan (project)

my personal experiance with R31 rear calipers and floor mount handbrake was a headache all the way..i moved piviot points, stuffed around with the calipers, dics, cables and so on... i had to pull the handbrake so hard for it to work, it eventually cracked the floor, .... if your sticking with the R31 rear calipers and want a centre handbrake, go hydraulic for the fun factor, and use the underdash setup to keep the law on your side.. (in SA we can run both legally)..

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In Adelaide building a Datto 1600, rack and pinion steering, cutdown R32GTR rear suspension (modified floor), S14 SR20Det and lots lots more. to be street legal BRE-510

I've got the standard underdash cable job hooked up to r31 calipers, and an ebay hyraulic handbrake centre mounted. Hd to shorten the handle a bit to fit behind the sr gearstick but it works very well

Does the R31 rear brake/floor mount setup work perfect as a park brake? Will it hold on the steepest of hills? Not interested whatsoever in using that setup for hill climb etc

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1600 with FJ20 & Simmons. something different.

Hydraulic handbrake FTW.

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1972 Datsun 1600, S14 SR20DET Engineered (204rwkW @ 17psi.)
viewtopic.php?t=6579
#SR20Datsun @SR20Datsun

I installed one in my 610 sss
so much easier to use and great for encouraging a slide.

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automotive clothing at www.burubado.com

One of the problems trying to get the rear R31 calipers to lock up using the handbrake, is the leverage ratio on the lever in front of the rear cross member, actuated by the front handbrake cable (where the front cable adjuster is fitted).

The hole used to connect this lever to the "Y" piece (the bit the rear cable feeds through) can be redrilled closer to its pivot point, to provide better leverage (or force multiplication) between the front and rear cables, at the expense of more front cable (handbrake) travel.

I use the stock hand brake and R31 rears and can lock the rear wheels with not a lot of effort on the stock (umbrella) hand brake.

I agree the under dash unit is pretty hard to use in competitive driving. A hydraulic rear hand brake is best for getting the back end to slide in competition. You can snap it on and off multiple times and/or "feather" the rear braking effort more easily than a rachetted handbrake.

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RichardC
SSS016