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PostPosted: Tue Mar 23, 2010 10:29 am 
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Thought some info on what can be done may be of interest here. Basically what you can do is follow the mods used on BMW E30's, they are very highly developed in Europe and are still competitive. Which means your Datto can be too. The mods involve making the rear suspension geometry fully and independantly adjustable, see Frank's post # 124 here
http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/to ... e__st__120

And one pic from there :thumbsup:


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E30 rear suspension.jpg [ 79.46 KiB | Viewed 2380 times ]

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 23, 2010 11:52 am 
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I've always thought why no one out there has had a go at designing and fabricating a complete rear x-member than trying to improve on it, IMO it has been exhausted and something like above would be a real interesting concept of adaptation, will definately read up on that during lunch....

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 23, 2010 1:34 pm 
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One thing to keep in mind though, I'm pretty sure anything that has a rose joint in it is classed as a super sedan at race meets

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 23, 2010 8:13 pm 
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how is camber adjusted on that one?
I dont see the benefit of this over what is already produced currently by workshops?


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 23, 2010 8:35 pm 
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There are a series of pictures with explanations that show exactly how all adjustments are made, see the link. Frank also talks about changing the arm's sweep angle.

The only adjustment kits I've seen in AU are the usual slotted eccentric ones which can't compare with the BMW stuff.

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 24, 2010 8:46 am 
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If the car is going to be street legal, you can't modify (ie weld) the suspension parts, which are classified as the semi-trailing arms and the lower control arms on the front. Cross members you can do what you like.
Also, rose joints (Heim joints etc.) can't be used.
If it's a track car, then go for it!!

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 24, 2010 11:00 am 
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Well, it does say 'circuit mods' in the title SR20Datsun.
And just to clarify, Datsports 1600 crossmember although essentially slotted, is finely adjusted by bolt and thread in a similar fashion.
[ img ]

p.s. Maddat and Datsport arnt the only companies who do this sort of stuff for Datsuns.
Check out the rally forums for more ideas...


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 24, 2010 11:08 am 
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nick wrote:
Well, it does say 'circuit mods' in the title SR20Datsun.

:oops: I knew that! :oops: (oops!)
:giggle:

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 24, 2010 11:34 am 
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I didn't start this thread to knock local products, just thought it may be useful for anyone doing sprints or time attack. Besides I've seen a few 510's on the track, most of them look pretty awful at the rear end handling wise.

The other thing is it pisses me off seeing people rave about how well STA BMW's handle. Of course BMW owners usually are prepared to spend money to get their cars handling right and they do eg http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SiBoP7tcG_s

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 24, 2010 11:38 am 
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I think one of the things that stuffs up the semi-trailing arm suspension is the lowering of a car. Basically if you lower the rear end 2", you have to raise the cross member this much (or raise the brackets that much). This maintains the correct camber curve, and toe curves.
I did this (to some extent where practicable) on my semi-trailing arm mods that I did.
I think that's what they were talking about with the BMW modification...
By the time you raise the points, and then add a small amount adjustment, you should be fine.

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 24, 2010 12:20 pm 
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FWIW you can weld suspension components - an engineer just needs to approve it (no big deal).


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 24, 2010 12:33 pm 
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He will only approve it if there has been an authorised welder who signs off on it, or if the welds have been crack tested by liquid-dye-penetrant, or x-ray or both. I've been there and done that. :(

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 24, 2010 2:41 pm 
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SW Motorsport does a rose jointed adjustable rear end

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 25, 2010 3:15 am 
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I wonder if i could get a coupl of R30 rear ends done?

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 25, 2010 7:40 am 
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SR20Datsun wrote:
He will only approve it if there has been an authorised welder who signs off on it, or if the welds have been crack tested by liquid-dye-penetrant, or x-ray or both. I've been there and done that. :(
That was what I use to think too, but not always necessary (welder signing off, crack testing or dye). Yours was pretty extensive though, so perhaps that why.


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