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PostPosted: Sat Apr 03, 2010 6:40 pm 
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Gday all, changing the strut inserts on my 240K, first attempt at this procedure. All going well until removal of the gland packer (see pics). Is this threaded and is it right hand thread? The nut measures 51mm wide and theres a special tool recommended, does anyone have a good alternative tool because the bastard is on tight! Appreciate any feedback, thank you.

Marty :D

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 03, 2010 7:28 pm 
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You should be provided with new gland nuts with the new inserts.
Try dosing the old ones with CRC or WD40 overnight then use Stillsons or a pipe wrench on them.
Lie the strut down and stand firmly on the stub axle or brake backing plate.
All struts are Right Hand Thread.
You shouldn't re-use them anyway so it won't matter if they get trashed.

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 03, 2010 10:12 pm 
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Go the stillsons I'm always a bandit for bringing them out. I put my struts in a vice and cracked the nut with stillsons.

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 03, 2010 10:32 pm 
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Thanks guys, I've had a crack with the stilsons- my weapon of choice also lol- but the bloody strut started turning in the vice. Thanks for the info re new ones provided with the inserts, thats really handy to know. I was worried about losing all the fluid if I laid them down. Just went out and sprayed some Jesus (RP7- fix anything) on them then and then they're in for a date with the stilsons tomorrow! :D

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 04, 2010 9:09 am 
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whatsdoing wrote:
Go the stillsons I'm always a bandit for bringing them out. I put my struts in a vice and cracked the nut with stillsons.
Yup... Either Stillson's or a big pipe rentch.

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 04, 2010 9:14 am 
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Rat Dat wrote:
whatsdoing wrote:
Go the stillsons I'm always a bandit for bringing them out. I put my struts in a vice and cracked the nut with stillsons.
Yup... Either Stillson's or a big pipe rentch.
stillsons.... wheel aligners best friend.... is there anything they cant do :giggle: ??

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 04, 2010 9:21 am 
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Any time i Have trouble with something i whip out the vice grips, if that doesn't work I borrow the neighbours stillsons. Borrowed them friday when i couldn't adjust the rear shock on my motorbike. Did the job in 2 seconds :) Go Team Stillson :)

However, not even a stillson would work recently when i discovered the filler plug on my gear box was stuck. It pretty much ripped the head apart on it and i gave up and just filled the box up via the reverse light sensor lol.

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dattos aren't MEANT to be nice - they're meant to hardcore - occasional road use only, semi rally / racing cars with stripped interiors, full cages and a pair of webers.
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 04, 2010 1:25 pm 
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Stillsons got it fellas!! Thanks heaps for the help, that O ring was stubborn too. :thumbsup:

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 04, 2010 1:53 pm 
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Make sure you clean up the internal thread on the struts and the new gland nut spins easily into the tube.
Use some anti-seize/copper coat on the nuts when you re-assemble.
Make sure the gland nut clamps down on the insert and doesn't bottom out on the thread leaving vertical movement of the insert possible.
If the insert is still loose in the tube and the nut is bottomed out, use packing washers at the base to raise the insert enough to cause positive clamping.
If loose they will thump and bang when you drive causing you much crossness :evil: :evil:
I usually carefully insert the cartridge while the strut tube is still containing the shock oil.
What pumps out is surplus, what stays in helps heat transfer and prevents corrosion of the inner tube surface.
The inner surface is bare metal and up to now has been bathed in oil :thumbsup:

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 05, 2010 1:13 pm 
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Thanks Graeme, that info muchly appreciated. Hate doing things for the first time, so much to learn :evil:

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 06, 2010 1:01 pm 
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Nissanman wrote:

I usually carefully insert the cartridge while the strut tube is still containing the shock oil.
What pumps out is surplus, what stays in helps heat transfer and prevents corrosion of the inner tube surface.
Another option (which I have shamelessly stolen from Baz) is to use 50:50 coolant and water. This still gives the anti corrosion properties, but is better for heat transfer (oil has particularly bad heat transfer properties)

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 06, 2010 8:30 pm 
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I've learned something new here... but why not just use 100% coolant then?

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dattos aren't MEANT to be nice - they're meant to hardcore - occasional road use only, semi rally / racing cars with stripped interiors, full cages and a pair of webers.
[ img ]


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 06, 2010 9:03 pm 
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Just my personal experience but I had a miserable result with the coolant/water mix.
Any water in that tube is asking for corrosion.
I figure the oil is better able to resist the corrosion and cooling is probably only required for extreme use.

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