Fitted a set of these to the 200B yesterday and ended up with positive camber instead of negative.

Tried rotating the strut tops around and couldn't fix it either. The strut tops appear to have a long bolt in one side, so initially I had this pointing to the middle of the car.

Car is at tyrepower having a wheel alignment and I asked them to see if they could fix it, but I was wondering if anyone else has had the same problem and what they did to fix it.

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Sure they are fitted the right way?
If you look closely, you can see which way they are offset too.

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Dan.
Official organisor of Thursday nite pizza.

I'm just going to let tyrepower work it out.

Like I said, I tried rotating them around, and still couldn't get it right.

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if rotating them doesn't work then they're not offset strut tops.

other thing could be that the front end of your 200B might have the camber issue of the 180B hence why the camber tops ain't doing a thing, don't know but might be the case???

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"You stay classy OzDat"

The long bolt has machined ends, ie reduced thread section.
They also had a yellow paint mark.
These do face to center of vehicle.

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A little knowledge is a dangerous thing.
www.datsport.com

"R.I.P. Baz. 29 April 2022. Thank you for all your contributions to the Datsun community over the years. You will be missed." - OZDAT

They are offset strut tops, you can tell when you compare them to a normal strut top.
Got the car back from tyrepower and the camber is pretty close to zero degrees. The car does feel a lot better though. Steering is lighter, but still grippy and there's less track then I had before. Must have done something...

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I was told they should give 1.6 degrees of negative camber, so you should notice.

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green200b - aka Alistair

The fleet:

Australia:
'80 200B GX - the green200b - hibernating
'81 RX-7 - 12A extend port - daily
'74 RX-2 - 13B bridgeport - cruiser

Europe:
'93 200SX - CA18DET - tourer

you should be able to work it out with maths.
i.e. the offset measurement (approx 10mm) and the length of the strut down to where it pivots on the ball joint.

Its close enough to 1 degree per 10mm when extending the LCA (ie moving the lower mounting point outwards), I can't see why it wouldn't be the same if moving the top mounting point inwards.

Should look like this - you can just see the nut on top of the strut insert is closest to the inside of the strut tower.

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1970 ex Group A Rally P510
1971 P510
1972 180B SSS
1965 SP310 Fairlady
1966 SP311 Fairlady

Yeah, they are fitted like that, but the camber hasn't really changed. In fact, according to the wheel alignment printout, it's uneven. I have -0.13 degrees on one wheel and +0.41 or something on the other.

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usually most Aus spec dattos have more camber on the LH side.
This is a factory setting.
compensated for road camber.

_________________
A little knowledge is a dangerous thing.
www.datsport.com

"R.I.P. Baz. 29 April 2022. Thank you for all your contributions to the Datsun community over the years. You will be missed." - OZDAT

a mate got 1.1 neg with those tops, 240k struts and lowered 240k springs in a 1600.

Maybe due to the height of your 200b, Nick?

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Dan.
Official organisor of Thursday nite pizza.

Maybe. I put in new springs at the same time I did the struts.

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File the 3 holes at the top so they're oval towards the engine and if you file enough you'll get a small amount of camber for almost fee (skinned knuckles?).
When I had no money I removed the front cross member, cut the camber pin mounts out of the cross emmber and file the holes 10mm towards the outside, then I welded them back in, lot of work but $$ cost was minimal and I got a small amount of free camber.
Later I got some $5-00 control arms and cut and shut them with mine so they metal overlapped, then rang a piece of 20mm angle along the bottom to strengthen, an extra 20mm in the length gave a noticeable amount of camber - pity more on one side though - I'm older now and have bought a decent ruler !! live and learn - at least I can weld (almost).
In the rear we again files the control arm mounts on the cross member (what a back breaker, next time we'll take it out), fitted decent large washers and refitted the arms - then we simply prised them a bit to get some angle and did the bolts up real (real) tight - worked a treat, lowered it heaps for sprints and still the camber wasn't a disaster. Total costs a couple of large washers (left overs) and . . again . . some band aids -
Any one like these cheap methods ?

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Dattos forever

Why not just spend a couple hundred and get proper camber plates????

T3 are far from optimal but they do the job and don't cost an arm or a leg, there was also a guy on here selling some for a decent price, I think he sells them on ebay now.

Also why do you want more neg camber??? Its just a daily ain't it???

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"You stay classy OzDat"