Background....

I have bought a front end pair of isc s13 coilovers with slotted s13 discs a long time ago and i'm in the process of fitting them on my 910 bluebird

the tie rod ends where they mount through the 910 steering arms look like this

------I*I-------- thread
-----/**\------- seat

s13 coilovers look like this

-----I*I--------
----I***I--------


(Excuse the crude text drawings)

however the arms i have on the s13 hubs have been previously redrilled to suit the 910 taper (i dont have this drill bit and it costs mega $$$ to get one)

BUT - and here is the problem - when i put the tie rod end into the arm and wind the nut on it wont go on far enough.

the original nut is a standard hex nut with cutouts that allows a split pin to go through and lock the nut but it wont go on enough to allow the split pin through.

i have ordered some r31 rack end to s13 tie rod adaptors to fit to some s13 bump steer adjust tie rods and plan to weld up the taper and redrill straight the arms but i need the car mobile and driveable after a realignment.

i have noticed on my travels via the interweb that some replacement tierod ends use a nyloc nut as opposed to a split pin to hold in the end once through the arm.

now for the obvious question but the reason i ask and started this thread...

is using a nyloc nut to hold in a tie rod end a safe and practical option, or should i just keep the car on stands and halt all other plans until i get all the s13 gear to fit?

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"the 910 is the poor man's 510"

totally safe mate, as long as it all mounts and seats appropriately. Alot of tie rod ends and ball joints nowdays come with nyloc nuts (i think its a cost thing).

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Driving takes three abilities: Accelerating, braking, and turning.
More power only helps acceleration.
Lower weight helps all three.

makes sense when the tie rod ends i'm ordering have nylocs - but its a steering component and i dont like changing original designs (albeit replacing strute and brakes for s13 coilovers)

thanks i'll atleast sleep tonight instead of quilifying my own answer staring at the ceiling fan until i fall asleep through exhaustion

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"the 910 is the poor man's 510"

Just get the die grinder out and make the taper to suit the old arms. Should be a easy job just take your time. Buy something like these and use the cone shapped tool

https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/Produ ... kCode=B900#

Also with nylocks on steering they are a use once item. Total pain in the ass if you need to unbolt them. If you do go down the nylock path make sure you have at least 2 or 3 threads above the top of the nut and grab some spare nuts.

Another optin also is to drill a new hole in each castle nut and split pin it that way.

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1928 Model A CC Pickup

thanks for the help guys

might get this thing rolling again sooner rather than later

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"the 910 is the poor man's 510"

When I did a conversion I just asked SWR if they had the taper drill and got one of them to drill them out for me.
you might try some performance places near you?
Its cheaper than buying the correct drill

thanks Trevor

if i have no confidence in the nyloc once it is fitted (enough thread out the top) i will look for a method of making the taper deeper.

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"the 910 is the poor man's 510"