What's up guys

I'm bangin' my head into a wall here, tryin' to get my car to handle well.

I've got a '70 510 wagon. I'm runnin' a datsport kit, with Ground Control Coilovers (on s12 struts) and camber plates, as well as TechnoToyTuning adjustable TC rods and Bump-steer spacers (both of the latter are recent additions in an attempt to correct my problem). Also of note, the LCA's on the datsport kit were relocated about 32mm in, to correct for wheel spacing issues.

Everything looks great, and the car feels great in the corners, but it has difficulty going straight... the tracking is all over the place (better since I added the Bump-steer spacers and LCA's)...

Today was the third time I've had it aligned (in hopes that the new parts that were installed would correct the problem), and the problem persists... the alignment will not stay true.. As soon as I get out of the shop, (with alignment chart in hand) and drive for a while, when I park, the wheels are noticeably toed in or out (it depends, AND changes....)

I've destroyed one brand-new set of tires already, and spent too much money on alignments that don't work...

Do you guys have any ideas? I'm at the end of the road here, hoping my southern hemisphere brethren can shine some light on my currently dark situation...

Regards,
-Casey
(Seattle, WA USA)

Are your tierod ends worn on the steering linkage?
What about idler arm bushes etc?
Surely if the toe is changing something must be worn.

How much camber are you running?
Alignment specs?
How low is the car?
What wheel width and offset do you have?
Lastly, did you try and contact Baz at Datsport about this?

Something is bending and staying bent. I'm not sure what you mean by the LCA being relocated 32mm in. Sounds a bit radical.

Everything is pretty much brand new. I got this datsport kit back in 02 or so, and it's been sittin' until about 8 months ago...

The car is pretty low, (about 6cm from the crossmember to the ground), and we had to move the control arms in to run the wheels I was runnin' on the sotck 1600 setup (otherwise they'd rub on the fenders). Also, my tires are currently toast, and i'm hoping THAT is the major contributor (hoping that the toe in toe out was but an optical illusion...; ; )

My alignment setup as of leaving the alignment shop on June 30, 2010:

Caster:
Left - 3.14*
Right - 3.22*

Camber:
Left - 2.13*
Right - 2.24*

Toe:
Left - .04" (inches mind you)
Right - .04"
Total - .08"


The wheels I've got on are 14" Iron Crosses (don't know the offset.. sorry.. )

I'm really just hoping that the dead tires are the major contributor to the problems I'm experiencing... The corners feel awesome... you can just dive in at any speed, and she pulls through just fine... It's the straights, and grooved pavements that are scary lol

ALSO, whenever I drive over any road paint (cross walks, arrows, etc.) the front tires squeal... same goes for heavily grooved pavement...

thanks for attempting to help me sort this out <3

I'm gonna try some new tires today perhaps, and see what happens...

It could be that the relocation of the control arms has caused a change in steering geometry.
A wheel offset that is too negative may be contributing also.
Is the tie rod on the steering linkage at the same level (parallel) as the control arm like in the following link?
(Note the comment highlighted below in red).

http://www.datsport.com/Lower_control_arm.html

Lower control arm



This pic shows the long front control arm and the tie rod assembly which is in correct alignment to the arm. If rod and arm are out of sync this can also cause bump steer.
Note! the anti vibration trans mount and the clearance provided for the exhaust pipe.

OK..would be best to get it realigned with the new tires before you road them. The worn profile of the old tires may be may be throwing out the alignment.
Sounds like could be a bump steer issue as Nick has alluded too.

I ran adjustable radius rods on my old wagon. I can't remember what the caster angle was, but I do remember that by shortenning them (increasing caster) particularly on the passenger side (due to typical road camber and yours would be opposite being a LHD) the problem was barely noticeable.
Also, do you have a steering box brace? if not, start with that.

I had the standard (reversed) front cross member and it was 100mm from the ground. I don't know if the dapsport crosmember hangs lower or not.
I also had 280ZX struts and camber was -2.2* both sides

You have PM

_________________
A little knowledge is a dangerous thing.
www.datsport.com

"R.I.P. Baz. 29 April 2022. Thank you for all your contributions to the Datsun community over the years. You will be missed." - OZDAT