I'm slowly going through a list of issues with my car now that I've got some time over the xmas break. My car has had some veering issues lately, mainly under acceleration it'll veer to the right, then when I back off it goes back to the left, strange.

Firstly I've replaced my caster rod/tension rod bushes, since one of them was split. Secondly I've tightened the passenger side front wheel bearing since it had a little bit of play in it. Thirdly I have removed some 8mm slip-on spacers that I had on the front wheels, just in case they were the culprit.

Now the weird thing is, I took it for a drive today after completing all of the above, and it has a bit of a different issue/characteristic now. After turning right (at a Give Way sign or Stop Sign for example) the steering won't re-center itself very easily and the car will then continue to want to pull right after I've straightened it up. If I turn left, the same thing happens but in that opposite direction.

I remember reading Baz mention something about this in another topic, so I did a search and found this...
So naturally my next step is to replace the idler arm bushes.

When browsing the SuperPro listings, there are two part numbers for these bushes, SPF0563K (Parallel bore) & SPF2005K (Tapered bore on housing). Which one do I need?

thanks in advance

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Anth

Defo change the idler arm if it hasnt been done.

i'd recommend checking the adjustment in the steering box. If this is overadjusted
it wont return back to central position.
Also try a different set of tires/wheels on the front... i've experienced similar and it was the rim/tires
while the wheels are off check that the brakes aren't binding. both sides should spin freely.

Lastly check toe and castor settings on your wheel alignment.

Peter

I've only ever seen the parallel version personally, like this: - Make sure that the idler arm shaft is not corroded.
The idler becomes very sloppy if the shaft or tube are damaged.

Use plenty of rubber grease when assembling.

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Regards, Graeme
Just trying to help...
http://nissanman.shutterfly.com/
graemes@internode.on.net

its pretty easy to see movement in the idler with someone else wobbling the steering wheel. Mine was really bad when I got it, the exhaust had burnt much of the lower bush away. I got a whole new assembly from my local auto parts store.

Anth, my comment on the idler arm bushes only applies to the standard factory idler
assembly with the rubber bush.

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A little knowledge is a dangerous thing.
www.datsport.com

"R.I.P. Baz. 29 April 2022. Thank you for all your contributions to the Datsun community over the years. You will be missed." - OZDAT

Thanks for the replies + info guys, very much appreciated as usual.

Baz, are you saying there could be another cause to my problem if my car already has an aftermarket bush in the idler? Im going to replace the bush anyway, just in case, can't hurt. I might take a photo under there and post it up in the mean time, nursing a cold at the moment so I probably won't attack it until tomorrow or the day after.

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If you don't know the history of the steering linkage you may very well be dealing with the original rubber bushes
My guess is that it is time for a re-build at least to get the entire system factory fresh.
Coupled with some careful adjustment of the steering box backlash adjuster and a good wheel alignment, the steering will then be excellent

_________________
Regards, Graeme
Just trying to help...
http://nissanman.shutterfly.com/
graemes@internode.on.net

When you say re-build do you mean all of the bushes, or everything such as the arms and steering box? Preferably I'd like to just fix what is broken for now, in the interest of getting the car back on the road asap since this time of year is when I do the most driving.

So here is some pictures of my steering setup (click for larger versions). Is my idler arm the factory item? Can anyone tell if the bush is gone from the pictures or is it too hard to tell since it's encased? I moved the steering back and forth by grabbing onto the disc/caliper and couldn't see it doing anything obviously wrong, but then again I don't really know what I'm looking for

Passenger side:










Drivers side:

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From your excellent piccys, the linkage looks in reasonable condition.
Looks like most of the ball joint rubber boots need renewing but at least they are still there and not a glob of Vegemite like some I've seen
Without effective boots, the ball joint farts its' grease out and the moisture gets in.
That is when they get trashed and sloppy movement results.
I'd recommend you lube them at least, and if you can, replace the boots soon.

I reckon the idler bushes are the rubber type and you can see the bottom bush bulging out a little.
Years of engine oil and exhaust heat can do that

The idler ideally simply rotates in unison with the steering box and also in the same plane.
If you turn the steering wheel back and forth and observe the idler moving in anything but a circular motion i.e. fore aft or laterally, then it is worn.
Not terminal, but until you dissemble him you won't know the extent of any damage, if any.
When I got mine apart the pivot pin was corroded something awful.
Picked up a replacement pin section, new poly bushes, lots of lube and job done
Here is a little gem that you will need if you do the work yourself: - When you attempt to separate the BJ, make sure that the stud nut takes all the pressure by winding it out to the end of the stud, NOT like I show in this pic.
If you don't use the nut to take the pressure, the stud will mushroom out and D!ck up the thread
Don't ask how I know that
Once again not terminal but unless you have a die to chase the thread it can be a real bummer.
Don't even think of using the percussion device known as a pickle fork.
I can't think of a worse way to treat a BJ and trash the boot at the same time!

_________________
Regards, Graeme
Just trying to help...
http://nissanman.shutterfly.com/
graemes@internode.on.net

so you mean wind out the nut on the end of the ball joint (top right of last image) until it sits above the thread that it belongs to, then sit the point of the remover tool on that same nut instead of sitting it on the thread?

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build-threads.com

You got it!
Ideally have the end of the stud level with the top surface of the nut so that neither thread has the chance to mushroom.
Nuts are easily replaced but it is desirable that the stud thread remains in good order.
Even slight damage on the stud thread can cause difficulty when re-installing the BJ nut.
If the nut is not an easy fit on the thread it will jam and make life tough because the ball stud will start rotating
So I always chase the thread and make sure that the nut I'm going to use will be free enough to be done up with the fingers before I attempt to assemble it all.
And grease, use lots of grease, preferably from a pressure gun.
You may need to remove a fastener from the casting and insert a grease nipple, depending on the manufacturer of the BJ.
Keep pumping, if you'll pardon the expression, until the grease burps out of the vent in the BJ rubber boot.
That goop is the lifeblood of a Ball Joint.

_________________
Regards, Graeme
Just trying to help...
http://nissanman.shutterfly.com/
graemes@internode.on.net

well it looks like I've got time up my sleeve, no one stocks the bushes (naturally) and it's gonna be a couple of weeks wait due to the time of year, going to Autobarn now to put a deposit down/order it in, I'll pick up a remover tool while I'm there. Thanks again for all your help Graeme, life saver! I'll be sure to pop into the thread again with more questions when it comes time to actually changing the bushes.

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You can but a new idler arm here http://cgi.ebay.com.au/DATSUN-1600-IDLE ... 3ee29cf78c

Of course after you have tweaked anything with you steering you should go an get your wheel alignment checked/adjusted.

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1928 Model A CC Pickup

Yeah I'll definitely be getting an alignment after it's all done, cheers brad!

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build-threads.com

We carry these bushes in stock normaly.
Tho we do not open till the 4th Jan.

I see the idler is made in japan, this may not be the original & may be a 555 joint.

The rubber bush is bonded to the inner sleeve & the outer body.
Rotation of the arm is by distortion/shear of the rubber insert.
This action act as a spring & assists in self centering the steering.
The erratic steering is caused by the bonding failing on the inner sleeve.
This causes the rubber insert to slip and rotate.
This then alters the centre rotation point of the assy.

complete idler arm assemblies are about $65 new.

_________________
A little knowledge is a dangerous thing.
www.datsport.com

"R.I.P. Baz. 29 April 2022. Thank you for all your contributions to the Datsun community over the years. You will be missed." - OZDAT