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PostPosted: Sun Nov 21, 2010 11:12 am 
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Joined: Tue Mar 04, 2003 10:09 am
Posts: 2596
Location: Lonsdale, South Australia
Jamiesix.
does your booster look like this?
http://www.datsport.com/hydraulic-brake ... der78.html

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 22, 2010 5:49 am 
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Joined: Sun Dec 21, 2008 12:29 pm
Posts: 393
Location: Melbourne
Make sure you put some sort of spaciner between your spring top hat and the strut top. Doesn't seem to be much room in there, could get some mad binder issues with camber and such


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 23, 2010 6:04 pm 
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Joined: Fri Mar 20, 2009 2:19 pm
Posts: 218
Location: Redondo Beach.
Datto 1000. Thanks for the well wishes. I will keep you posted.

Baz. I will double check this week. I will take photos of the booter, booster and master separated, and the new ZX master I got.

Sled510. It worked well. I will get photos too. My buddy installed same parts in his 510. I will doubkle check.

Cheers.


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 18, 2011 3:53 pm 
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Joined: Wed Nov 05, 2008 1:54 pm
Posts: 223
Location: ACT
Have heard (Olly) that Patrol Master is also direct bolt on for 180B and 1 inch, just need to modify rod length out of booster.

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 19, 2011 3:27 pm 
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Joined: Wed May 16, 2007 2:18 pm
Posts: 925
Location: Melbourne Doncaster
James May wrote:
MYDATO wrote:
200b master should still be fine. You might find you have a bees D!ck more travel. I'd leave it be. When/if it fails put a 240k master in. I though 200b's had a different bolt pattern to 180b though?
You may be right. The 200B master is alright. For some reason when I first fitted the calipers I had next to no breaks, so I ordered new lines and rebuild kits for the calipers. With a bit of driving they seem to be much better. Still lots of travel in the pedal though, other than that they are pretty much the same as my old girlocks were.

For a given M/C size increasing volume of caliper will give you more mechanical advantage so you do not have to press as hard on the pedal for a given amount of force on the pads. however more volume at the caliper also means that more fluid has to be displaced at the M/C to move the pistons the same ammount. This means that if you put bigger calipers on you will have more pedal travel. so if you want less pedal travel then put on a larger diameter M/C however keep in mind that by increasing the M/C size you are decreasing the mechanical advantage so if you go too big you may find you have to press uncomfortably hard on the pedal to stop. There is a better explanation and formulas to work out the exact mechanical advantage in Fred Phuns book "how to make your car handle" if your interested. however if you keep the ratio of area at the M/C to total piston area at the caliper the same then you should be right :thumbsup:

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 19, 2011 6:06 pm 
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Joined: Fri Mar 20, 2009 2:19 pm
Posts: 218
Location: Redondo Beach.
Howzt.

Got a few pics of the parts in question. Been working on my "B"

Here a couple booster closeups.
[ img ]
[ img ]

7/8ths "Z" brake master cylinder:
[ img ]
[ img ]
[ img ]

15/16ths "ZX" brake master cylinder:
[ img ]
[ img ]

Both cylinders next to each other:
[ img ]

The bleeding nipples on the 15/16ths are very close to the strut tower. I will install the master cylinder this week. replacing brake lines as well.

Thanks for the theory Wisseys. Makes a lot of sense. I think I will use the 7/8ths to start with. I will keep the 15/16ths for further improvements down the road. When I install rear calipers to replace the rear drum brakes, then I will use the larger one.

The stock 180B master cylinder is a 3/4ths, so going up to a 7/8ths is a good step. Will update soon.

Cheers.


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