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Idler arm bush under torsion?
http://www.ozdat.com.au/forum/viewtopic.php?t=24958		 Page 1 of 1
Author:  Hezath [ Sun Mar 27, 2011 7:36 pm ]
Post subject:  Idler arm bush under torsion?
I'm putting together the front end of my 260C and I just bolted the idler arm bracket & idler arm into place after giving them a squirt of paint and then I realised that it doesn't actually want to rotate... rather that it has cerrated ends on the crush tube in the idler arm bush and the bush is just being twisted because the ends lock into the bracket and locating washer. And it looks like this is how it's supposed to be? As if the bush is vulcanized into the arm?

What the f***? Do people actually keep this setup or can you put bearings in there or some other bushes? No wonder the steering was so heavy at high amounts of lock. I thought it had too much caster or something, lol!
Author:  Hezath [ Tue Mar 29, 2011 8:32 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Idler arm bush under torsion?
And I have found this thread. Although it doesn't seem that this ^ issue is discussed there?
http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=22874
Author:  richardc [ Wed Mar 30, 2011 9:44 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Idler arm bush under torsion?
Your observations are to be correct. Same set up on a Datsun 1600. You need to ensure the steering idler arm is set to "straight ahead" before tightening the locking nut. This design helps the self centering action. After market, nolethane replacement bushes are not bonded to their crush tube and they can give variable feel on the return to centre after a tight L/R turn of the steering wheel, if they are too tightly fitted.
Author:  Hezath [ Wed Mar 30, 2011 9:59 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Idler arm bush under torsion?
Yeah I realise you have to tighten it when the wheels are pointing straight haha. It seems like just a crazy way to get self-centering though. Why not just make the idler arm free to rotate and dial in more caster so it corrects when you are hooning, but the steering is still light in carparks? This just makes it heavy all the time and means that that bush will definitely flog out.

Can more people comment on this, talk about alternatives etc? I'm looking at it like this: it's just putting more load on the steering column, steering box, some of the joints on the linkages etc. The only advantage that I can see is if your steering wheel were to fall of, steering box to strip teeth or pitman arm to become detached, your car would still go straight hahaha.
Author:  Dave [ Wed Mar 30, 2011 11:07 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Idler arm bush under torsion?
Hezath wrote:
Why not just make the idler arm free to rotate and dial in more caster so it corrects when you are hooning, but the steering is still light in carparks?
Ever driven a car with a lot of caster ? "Light" doesn't come to mind when describing it, quite the opposite.

Nissan designed and tested these cars with that type of idler arm, and it worked perfectly well, providing a little bit of assistance for the steering to self-centre. It shouldn't wear out other components, and should last perfectly well for many years if in good condition. I've owned my 1600 (with the same type of idler) for over 15 years and the factory idler is still fine.

Have a look and you'll find that the lower control arms are probably the same, they are on many older Datsun's I've played with :thumbsup:
Author:  Hezath [ Thu Mar 31, 2011 12:19 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Idler arm bush under torsion?
Yeah I'm not saying it needs to be light but at least if you have lots of caster you have a benefit from the heavy steering! hahaha. If you reckon it's okay maybe I will put up with it. Seems bloody weird to me though

This Cedric has a double wishbone front end so I don't think the control arms are the same. :roll:

Cheers
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