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 Post subject: Seized rear drum 1600
PostPosted: Mon Mar 28, 2011 4:52 pm 
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Location: Canberra
it seems that my rear passenger drum is seized. if i go to move the car it behaves like the hand break is on at that corner but it is not, the hand brake functions correctly i can see the cables tight and loose when it is on and off. because of this i cant take the drum off to investigate. does anybody have any ideas on what could be keeping the brake on (so to speak). im starting to think a problem to do with the hydrulics not allowing the pressure out. but i got no idea

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1972 datsun 1600 white: parts car now
1970 datsun 1600 light green(ish) alive and kicking.... with rego


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 28, 2011 5:14 pm 
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Have you tried backing off the adjuster for the brake shoes ?

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 28, 2011 5:28 pm 
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Location: Adelaide.
It could be anything jamming up the drum, hydraulic or mechanical.
It could also be a bar steward to get the drum off to see WTH is going on :x
What you can do is back of the brake adjuster all the way and see if the shoes retract enough for the drum to be removed.
If the drum is badly worn the shoes can be "hooked" inside the drum by a ridge running around the circumference of the drum.
The trick is to retract the shoes enough to clear the ridge, if present.
Attachment:
[ attachment ]
510 rear brake detail.jpg [ 226.95 KiB | Viewed 1594 times ]
Be very careful since the adjuster has a wuzzy square drive on it which is easily rounded off :roll: :roll:

The drums have 2 x 8mm threads in them on the flange face.
Once you have backed off the adjuster, slip a pair of 8mm bolts into those holes and GENTLY wind them up.
You may need to dose up the drum/hub centre section with WD-40 to break the corrosion between the drum and flange.
If you have never had the drums off, it could get tough.
TAKE YOUR TIME and wind up the bolts gradually, tapping the FACE of the drum where it mates with the hub with a hammer.

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 28, 2011 6:05 pm 
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I had the same problem, just replaced the wheel cylinders and alls good. The pistons in them had completely worn out.
Just make up a puller drive or buy a steering wheel puller tool from repco etc, as nissanman said.

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 28, 2011 6:12 pm 
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thanks guys i didnt even go looking for the adjuster i thought it would be inside and hence the problem. I probably should have been a bit clearer, the wheel can still rotate just has to fight the brake quite a bit, i imagine that winding the adjuster should fix this.
cheers ill give it a go tomorrow

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1972 datsun 1600 white: parts car now
1970 datsun 1600 light green(ish) alive and kicking.... with rego


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 28, 2011 9:52 pm 
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chris1818 wrote:
I had the same problem, just replaced the wheel cylinders and alls good. The pistons in them had completely worn out.
Just make up a puller drive or buy a steering wheel puller tool from repco etc, as nissanman said.
x2


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 28, 2011 10:07 pm 
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chris1818 wrote:
I had the same problem, just replaced the wheel cylinders and alls good. The pistons in them had completely worn out.
Just make up a puller drive or buy a steering wheel puller tool from repco etc, as nissanman said.
dont need to buy a puller just put an 8mm bolt in the threaded hole and you have an instant puller.

as nissan man said back off the adjuster, tap with a hammer and bobs your auntie.


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 28, 2011 10:47 pm 
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old-tin wrote:
dont need to buy a puller just put an 8mm bolt in the threaded hole and you have an instant puller.
this

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 29, 2011 6:32 pm 
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Location: Canberra
fixed its all good :)

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1972 datsun 1600 white: parts car now
1970 datsun 1600 light green(ish) alive and kicking.... with rego


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