Howdy,

I've never changed the pads or fluid in the almost 3yrs that I've owned the car, and even though I've never had an issue with the brakes I think it would be a good time to refresh it all since I'd like to get the car out to a track practice day some time this year.

My setup is:

Front: VL Commodore calipers, Verada disks.
Rear: R31 discs/calipers.
Nissan Urvan remote brake resevoir, 7/8" Master Cyl
Braided lines F&R.

So does anyone have any recommendations for brake pads and brake fluid? The car is first and foremost for the street, but I'd still like the brakes to be able to handle the odd track day here and there. Naturally I'm also after something cost effective since I'm not made of money!

Any advice is always appreciated

_________________
build-threads.com

Any decent branded DOT 4 will do the trick. Don't look to deep into super expensive brake fluid. I run Catsrol response Super DOT 4 and I've never had a problem. If you ever hit the track you should bleed through fresh fluid anyway so you are just wasting money if you buy the super expensive stuff.

As for pads. I can't recommend highly enough QFM's. They are brilliant. Very well priced too at around $90 for a pair. The only thing with them is if they have to be made for your application (though you'd take DB1086's wouldn't you? I don't think you would have to wait long if that were the case), you'll need to wait anywhere from 6 weeks to 8 weeks usually.

I run QFM A1RM on the front (Volvo 4 spotters, slotted rotors) and LTM003 on the rears (R31 slotted). The LTM003 are in between the A1RM and the HP-X. Excellent combo for street/track use.

QFM A1RM rated at 0 - 780c
QFM LTM003 rated at 0 - 560c (recommended for slotted rotors)
QFM HP-X rated at 0 - 550c

Cheers

Same brakes i had on my old 1600 I ran bendix advance pads in the front and bendix standards in the rear.

Worked great at Wakefield but after 10 laps I found I needed better brake Fluid so I changed to motul rbf600 and had No problems at all after that

Car was also daily driven.

_________________
http://www.datnet.org
http://www.sydneydatsunclub.com

I also use qfm a1rm, but with motul 600deg fluid. Bit more biased towards track day over street but I cant fault them. Pintara front rotor cruiser 4pots, r31 rear.

QFM or Ferodo DS2500 if you have the bucks. As for fluid well you get what you pay for. I run AP600 in my 1600. Have never ever had any fade. It's about $40 a bottle. You will need 2 botles to start with. Boiling point is 200 degrees wet and dry is 300 degrees. I just bleed before the track and off I go for the whole day. It all depends on the speeds you are reaching and how hard you are n the brakes. For Sandown and Phillip Island you would want good fluid. My top speed around Sandown is around 230-240kph (speedo only goes to 200 ). I want to know my brake pads and fluid are up to the task when I get to the end of the straights.

http://www.apracing.com/info/info.asp?s ... Details_94

_________________
1928 Model A CC Pickup

Thanks guys, so many great replies, lots of numbers and letters to decipher!

Brad can you elaborate on bleeding the brakes before you hit the track. Do you just bleed a bit of fluid?

_________________
build-threads.com

Yep just bleed a bit from each corner just to make sure there are no bubbles. I change it completely every 6-8 months.

Also take note most brake fluid specs give there wet and dry boiling point spec in Fahrenheit. It makes the numbers look bigger than they really are.

_________________
1928 Model A CC Pickup

ah okay that makes sense, I thought it was something to do with air/bubbles.

_________________
build-threads.com