Finally took the old girl for a bit of a drive today. Had to put a kit in the mastercylinder so it would stop which has taken about 3 months, best not to rush things, anyway it stops now. Took it down to my parents place to leave it in the shed there. It drives very nicely, smooth and quiet, unlike everything else I own. Have the these things got a pretty low ratio diff? I found all the books in the glovebox as well.

Car looks great and yes all the 260-280 range are great cruisers.
The diff ration I assume, if it is like the 330 430 280C will be 4.11.
The motor spins a bit at 100k but it is not stressed doing that. I think 100K is around 3200 rpm.
We have been spoilt with the modern car where they show very low revs at highway cruise but fuel injection, computers and engines tuned for high torque at low revs does all that. Without the computer controlling advance etc we would detonate the old l28 trying to emulate those highway revs.
Enjoy

Well that explains that,4.11 I would have thought would be a stump puller. The motor does spin over pretty quick, but it doesn't sound out of place.

I think the rear end is 3.9:1 ratio, not 4.11. 3200 at 100km/h is on the money I believe.

You putting it in storage or something?

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1973 H230 Wagon, 'ILL-260'
1975 911S Targa
1978 Torana Hatch
1999 GXE10

Oz delivered Cedrics were all four elevens.

The L sixes can be tuned for excellent low rpm torque without the use of management.

The standard two barrel manifold isn't part of that equation although it can still work reasonably well. The best manifold for torque is the Arizona 4 barrel, if you want to tune a 4 barrel carb. Some people dont. The next best IMO is probably the stock twin SU setup from a Z.

The stock cam, advanced, does well for low rpm torque too.

The low compression L28 (N42/N42 combo, for example) can tolerate heaps of initial timing advance and I can run 20 degrees static with PULP and a one step colder NGK plugs. BPR7ES-11 are great. Just make sure that your advance doesn't exceed 36-37 degrees total. This may require that you rework your distributor to make this happen. I did this on my 280zx electronic dizzy. Get rid of points man. There are some compromises on tech here but not that one.

Run a colder thermostat too if you want to push the advance up to that level. I had some success with vacuum advance connected but it's difficult to tune with it. The vacuum pot isn't adjustable and there may be a way to do it but I figured that with enough mechanical advance, I didn't need it anyway. When connected though, I connected it to manifold vacuum.

With all this stuff, I was able to build up a pretty good running L28 that could pull the tall 0.686 OD ratio in the L4N71B tranny with my 4.11's. That's a 2.82 final drive ratio right there......V8 gears. The difference when cruising @ 100-110 is plenty, especially if you throw on a big exhaust system and like long hauls. The economy is pretty good too because the torque peak is now no longer 4k but more like 2.8K. At 2.5K rpm at 100 km/h, you're right there! (40Km/h @ 1000rpm).

Sorry to dump all this sh*t here.

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1971 240C P230 coupe L28 10.5:1 comp. N/A Haltech Elite 750. ITB's, tuned exhaust, 6 speed manual trans 4.625 LSD

'Nissantiques - Join the Club'

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1971 B110
1971 P510
1974 H230
1974 B120

Hi Heath, I had to pick up a truck, so I hung a trade plate off it and took it down there. I'll probobly bring it home soon and leave it here. I've got a couple of V8 Holden utes and I put one on club rego the other day. I havn't worked out what to do with the Datto yet, but if I'm keeping it I'll just put it on club rego. I've got some undercover parking for it here, or there is a shed and a carport big enough for 2 trucks at my parents place so either way it'll be out of the weather. I was pretty impressed with driving it. Only one of the power windows (luckily the drivers one) is working properley. The other car at St George has wind up windows, but it's got a blue interior, and this one is white, I'm assuming the door trims would have to be swapped. Be a little while before I can get out there anyway. Mitch I havn't forgotten the badges when I do. Cam.

Hi All, I'm looking at making a bit more under cover storage, and seeing as I've done bugger all to the old 260C I was thinking of finding it a new home. I know most of you are interstate, but if anyone is interested in the old girl, make me an offer, I am looking at moving it on and I'm going to do my ar#se on it anyway, so what I'm mainly looking for is someone who is interested and genuine. The only rust in the whole car is a minor bit about the size of a 50 cent piece in the LH lower rear quarter. The thing has spent it's life in western Queensland which is a very low humidity rust free environment. The mechanically it's a bit tired but still OK. The master cylinder and booster have been done, it's got power steering, the motor runs fine but will breath a bit heavy if it's just been idling about instead of driven, the tyres are 30 years old and rooooted really, nothing leaks and she drives like a marshmallow.

I must admit I get on here a little infrequently, but I love seeing what you guys do. It's great seeing people who are enthusiastic and do the edeal properly, out with grinder, cut out some rust, weeld it up, and the thought that goes into the mods, detail and follow up. Anyway, because I do get on here a bit infrequently, my Email is amandacam@acenet.net.au if anyone is keen.

Got any family friends who are like 16? They're the ones who need to be convinced to get their hands dirty with an old car. We've already got too many!

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1973 H230 Wagon, 'ILL-260'
1975 911S Targa
1978 Torana Hatch
1999 GXE10

Too true Heath, I've got 2 that'll be 16 in 6 months, but thier mechanical inclinations are bugger all unfortunatly.
All that would happen is I would end up doing anything that needed doing to it, and I've got enough to do anyway.

All sorted guys, one of the blokes at work has put his hand up for the old girl, so all going well, I'll be able to bang up some pics of him getting it right.