Hey guys I have an electronic dizzy from an R30 or a 280ZX (don't know which) and a 12V coil to put in my 260C. My car has an L26 fitted with an original points distributor

I've been reading this page: http://www.pape.ws/allan_and_rosanne/Z- ... 20Tips.htm
Half way down he talks about ignition systems. I think my distributor is what he calls a "D2" and the ignition module is an E12-80, which has the two wires and mine has the factory plug off the car it came from which should make the wiring neater.

My knowledge only extends as far as the fact I need to bypass the ballast resistor. I'm just no good with electrical stuff. If I just follow this diagram, and bolt the dizzy in with the timing roughly right, is that all there is to it?

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1973 H230 Wagon, 'ILL-260'
1975 911S Targa
1978 Torana Hatch
1999 GXE10

Yes I reckon you have it correct, C to Coil & B to Battery +.
I would make sure that the coil you propose to use is suitable for a HEI.
The Bosch cattledog lists the following for the R24E engines: -
Skyline 81 - 86 L24E 6 2.4L standard coil No. 0 221 119 030
It appears Bosch at least do not have an aftermarket replacement.

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Regards, Graeme
Just trying to help...
http://nissanman.shutterfly.com/
graemes@internode.on.net

Coil is an ACA brand C174 coil, oil-filled, I just bought it because it was cheap and black, not bright red like a GT40 haha

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1973 H230 Wagon, 'ILL-260'
1975 911S Targa
1978 Torana Hatch
1999 GXE10

Most coils will run 12 volts through them ok.

The ballast resistor is there to reduce the voltage to the points so that they don't burn out so quickly. Once the points dizzy is removed, the resistor can be modified by removing it, turning it upside down and replacing the resistor wire with a piece of standard wire and two ring terminals. Now the dizzy will see 12 volts all the time. That's what voltage you want with your electronic dizzy and your coil will put out more herbs, just like when cranking with the old points setup.

I've attached a piccy that I got from Datman in the UK. Thanks Datman! It's not any different really, just looks it. Good luck with it.....

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1971 240C P230 coupe L28 10.5:1 comp. N/A Haltech Elite 750. ITB's, tuned exhaust, 6 speed manual trans 4.625 LSD

'Nissantiques - Join the Club'

Alright my friend came and gave me a hand yesterday to run some wires and put this thing in, with success, at last! Looks neat with heatshrunk connections and I just started looming it up in electrical wire earlier today. We just got the car running yesterday and it idles fine but I don't have my timing light here so haven't done a final adjustment on the timing yet. So yeah, stoked about getting that out of the way.

I do have one question though... The wire that connected to the output (lower voltage) terminal of the ballast resistor didn't just go to the coil, it was also connected to a blue and black wire coming from the loom. I looked it up in my workshop manual it is part of the factory loom (BL colour code) and it went to 'Terminal 5' on the ignition switch. ^ Is this the source of 12V ignition while cranking that that you're referring to?

Whatever it is, it isn't hooked up any more, am I alright to just leave it there, not connected to anything? The car starts and runs but I haven't had a chance to take it for a drive and make sure that everything still works yet haha.

Cheers!

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1973 H230 Wagon, 'ILL-260'
1975 911S Targa
1978 Torana Hatch
1999 GXE10

If it works, don't "fix" it. Don't worry too much about that wire, just tape it up so it doesn't ground on anything and you should be good to go.

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1971 240C P230 coupe L28 10.5:1 comp. N/A Haltech Elite 750. ITB's, tuned exhaust, 6 speed manual trans 4.625 LSD

'Nissantiques - Join the Club'

When I converted my 200B from points to electronic, I had three or four wires left over. I taped them up and never had an issue. That said, the wire I had to use to supply power to my coil was black with a white stripe. Quite possibly different to yours and if it's running you're probably okay. Maybe get a test light and see what the other wires do? Provided you have twelve volts when the ignition is in the 'on' position hooked up to the positive of your coil, that's your main concern.

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green200b - aka Alistair

The fleet:

Australia:
'80 200B GX - the green200b - hibernating
'81 RX-7 - 12A extend port - daily
'74 RX-2 - 13B bridgeport - cruiser

Europe:
'93 200SX - CA18DET - tourer

i had the same thing as the green200b taped them up and it was fine. went to the auto elec one day and when the car came back they had all gone. not sure where though.

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Callan
fleet:
78 200B
78 ZH Fairlane 500 Bluesmobile
86 ZL Fairlane ZLane
78 ZH Fairlane 500 Barn find
85 Troopy 2H Turbo

ON 510s

the blk/blu wire is the HOT START wire or also know as the bypass wire. This get 12volts at start cause the battery is loading down(really less than 12 volts)

OK when converting to a the later EI type coils they can take 12-14voltsvolts. However a Point coil doesn not like a 12volts for long(Feel it it will get HOT). that why it needs a ballast resisitor to cut the currrent. really if you figure it out its about 6volts doing the math.


so the question is this a Pertronix or a Point conversion or a full EI dizzy swap.?????
Pertronix or a Unilite they will use the stock coil and ballast set up. Or at least resisitance wise. That means use the ballast

EI set up:
a EI coil and dizzy You can just hook the 12volt ON wire(usaully blk/wht) and the Hot start wire(blk/blu) hook this up to the + side EI coil. also hook B .
note: soem people dont hook up the Blk/blu as the BLk/wht is the 12volt ON and it might work.. But ai notice you loose somevoltage on that wire when the key goes to Start. So it will start better if you short the blk/wht with the blk/ blu

C goes to the -side coil. thats it.