Hey, just wondering if anyone knows of any mechanics who know what they're talking about as far as RB30's go? Have an ongoing problem with mine that i just can't sort out, i've tried everything I can think of and have searched for info for hours on the net. Thinking I should give up and let someone with proper knowledge have a go; i've taken it to about 3 mechanics so far and keep getting told "take it to this bloke, he'll fix it" only to have yet another person stumped on whats wrong. Anyway, does anyone know of anyone?

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So, what is the actual problem, Hmmmmmmmm?

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Regards, Graeme
Just trying to help...
http://nissanman.shutterfly.com/
graemes@internode.on.net

Why not pose your problem to the forum, maybe someone has experienced it and has a solution. Bob.

yahuh

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Dan.
Official organisor of Thursday nite pizza.

Mate I have posed my problem on Skylines Aus forum and wikir31 forum and told countless people about it and I just can;t get an answer and i am basically sick of explaining myself over and over and over again... It's basically running rough, started a while ago, first of all it had bugger all power till i hit 2000rpm then the power would come on like a turbo (it's NA) and would not run with an air filter on. We checked the plugs and found it to be running lean so we checked the fuel pressure and found it all to be pumping how it should be, however I ended up discovering that clamping the fuel line helped out a little here and I was able to use an air filter but it was still lacking something... Everyone told me it was the cam angle sensor, very common to go in these engines and the symptoms closely matched what i was describing. So i forked out $120 on a brand new CAS, at the same time also fitted new cap, rotor button, plugs and leads (another $200) and new coil ($100), But hahahaha still no fixie....

I ended u checking and testing the fuel pump again and found it to running correctly and then checked over the air flow meter and CAS and O2 sensor, all working correctly but still running rough... I was told by one bloke I needed to run an extra earth going from battery to engine block and this turned out to mostly fix it but the problem would still come and go at random times. Now, the other day a wire came loose on my alterntor and i had to drive home in the dark about 50kms watching the voltage gauge go from a healthy 13 all the way down 10 when i turned my lights off (driving in the dark) and then watched it go down to 8v when it started running like balls and backfiring very badly. Anyway I got it home with it on about 6v for 20kms, looked over the car and found a loose wire, yippee problem solved? No, once battery was fully charged and alt wire fixed it is now running really rough, missing all the over the place and backfiring and has plenty of power down low in the rev range but wont rev high like it used to almost like it's being help back (up hills it is better leaving in 4th gear than to down gear to 3rd and power up it).... so i thought maybe when the voltage dropped to 8v and below it was probably having trouble firing yet still letting fuel through the injectors and probably fouled up the plugs. So yesterday I checked the plugs and they all looked fine, chuck em back in and she's still running rough and wont rev above around 3500 (used to happily rev to 6).

So yeah basicaly I am damn over it, just wanna take it somewhere and get it sorted out so it's fixed once and for all. I basically live in the commodore capital of australia and all the mechanics are useless with commodores let alone Nissans, so finding it hard to get anyone wanting to look at it, so yeah after someone who's worked on these quite a bit who wont just be fault finding and might know what it is straight up or at least know what to look for,


Bloody hell that was a long winded post. hope it made sense.

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I know everyone is guna think im guna pulling you leg with this but try taking the ecu out putting it in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer for 24hrs i was told this as an apprentice by my boss and thought he was having me on but he was dead set serious and to cut a long story short when the vls come out they had a problem with running rich and the bumper bar being covered in black soot and doing this fixed the problem dont ask me how but it did, but it may or may not fix your problem good luck

i see your point, but fault finding is how it goes, even for gurus

say you'd have found a chap whos messed with RB's for decades, he'd still have had to gone through the things youve fixed before getting the problem found and stopped

bad ECU's can cause sporadic problems, have a peek inside yours for leaky capacitors
is the TPS in the right position/set to the right voltage?
checked for and stopped any vac leaks?

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1972 P510
1979 620

I have swapped into this car from an excellently running car the Dizzy/Cas, O2 sensor, ECU, AFM and anything else we could easily remove and try in mine. I am over trying to find the problem myself and plan on moving to QLD shortly and would be extra happy if it made the trip (naturally).

And yes, searched for loose wires, vacuum leaks etc etc etc etc

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My vg30 did exactly the same thing and it had me fuckd. When I checked my fuel psi @ idle it did seem ok but @ hi rpm it would drop of. New filter and reg, happy days

Rb30 ECUs love making stupid unthinkable problems.

+1 for a Farked ecu

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Driving takes three abilities: Accelerating, braking, and turning.
More power only helps acceleration.
Lower weight helps all three.

Just doesn't fit the bill though, already swapped in a good working ECU and still had same probs, put my ECU in mates car too and it ran fine.

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Maybe its not a Guru you need but someone to do the basics. There,s no mention of compression readings, exhaust fumes in the water,water in the petrol and especially the use of a vacuum gauge to diagnose a myiad of problems like blocked exh,vac leak,valve/spring wear,late timing ign. and valve. Ign. switch voltage in/out,all earth wires cleaned at contact point.Hope you find something stupid like this and save your money. Cheers.

Thanks buddy, but we have checked the basics, i'm not an expert but i'm definitely not an idiot. Hahaha I actually find it funny you mention "exhaust fumes in the water", how is that "basic"? That would require someone with chemical analysis equipment wouldn't it? As for other stuff you've mentioned; definitely no water in petrol, drained and cleaned and refilled tank while checking pump - compression is very good i forget the exact figures now but when checked a few months back they were exactly as they were at factory (reco'd engine as of last year) - timing is set as per factory specs although we played around with that to no avail - as for valve/spring wear I can't see them wearing in 12 months from new and especially because sometimes this engine runs very well (better than most r31's/VL's ive driven. when running good) -all earth wires are 12 months old and all contact points were clean and good. Dunno what else I can say. I really hate taking m car to mechanics having worked in the industry for 10 years and knowing how stupid most of them are and I like to work out my own problems but this car has me beat big time.

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SO I TAKE IT THERE IS NO ONE WHO EVEN WORKS ON THESE THINGS ANYMORE?

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