im in need of some guidance from those that have set up the standard L18efi i have it all nutted out and hooked up on the bench but would like to know the exact function of the three wires in the pic ( red, red-white and black?

i know they are for the ecu power and injector pulse from the neg- side of the coil, but if someone could tell me which is which it would be much appreciated

Bump

I'll try remember to dig out my loom for you tonight, I had mine all running on the ground ages ago so labeled all the wires up.
If i forget PM me to remind me.

_________________
Past:
A10 160J Coupe
R30 Turbo Manual
Present:
KP710 160JSSS Coupe (My Standard Car)
KP710 160JSSS Coupe (My SR20DET 6Spd Car)
KP710 140J Delux (New Road Car)
KP710 Parts POS

thanks mate

Ok the
Red wire = To EFI relay powers up ECU
Green Wire = To fuel pump relay
Black White = ( i didn't lable this but i assume its constant power).

Now i did this over 18months ago off the top of my head on the ground in my shed so hopefully i got it right for you.
The fuel pump relay is powered via the AFM and cranking signal from memory. Or maybe its from the oil pressure switch i can't remember but i decided i didn't like it and was going to swap it to the other option.
Any other questions just ask

Brett

_________________
Past:
A10 160J Coupe
R30 Turbo Manual
Present:
KP710 160JSSS Coupe (My Standard Car)
KP710 160JSSS Coupe (My SR20DET 6Spd Car)
KP710 140J Delux (New Road Car)
KP710 Parts POS

Im certain the pumps triggered from the oil pressure switch. As there were numerous issues with people having starting problems.

The switches failed and didnt send the signal to the pump.

I would rework that idea and put a relay on it. Triggered from the ignition key or ecu power.

thanks fellers

I know its one or the other as i think it maybe the 280Z that uses the AFM source to trigger the fuel pump they changed it.
I always thought the Oil pressure switch was a bad idea due to old worn engines may no come up to pressure quick enough on starting to keep the fuel pump running after first fire and cranking.
It also take a feed from the crank/starter signal wire.

Don't run a relay from your ignition switch to run fuel pump thats dangerous as if you have an accident and your key is still on even with your engine stalled your pump is still cranking away pouring fuel out of that broken fuel line into the fire.

On another note early RX7s run the pump from the AFM signal and its not that great if there's low/weak battery voltage when starting. The starter pulls the voltage down not giving the AFM enough power to operate correctly and feed a signal to the fuel pump. Hence no go and people thinking that the rotor is about to die due low compression (when in actual fact its fine). I don't believe they pick up a signal from the starter circuit though which would over come this problem.

Its a good time now to have a look at the fuel pump circuit and see if you can come up with a smarter safer better idea.

_________________
Past:
A10 160J Coupe
R30 Turbo Manual
Present:
KP710 160JSSS Coupe (My Standard Car)
KP710 160JSSS Coupe (My SR20DET 6Spd Car)
KP710 140J Delux (New Road Car)
KP710 Parts POS

unlimitedpower:

Mine is running though with some tune up issues that I've not had to time to troubleshoot...

http://www.ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=32&t=21772

I do not have three wires in my loom, I have four
Blue - Fuel Pump
black/white - Ignition
Black/Yellow - Starter
Red - (Suspect to be check engine light)

I stand to be corrected......