Hi People
In regards to your Turbo's and Supercharged Motors L's or other.
Is water or Methanol better to use to suppress pinging?
Or a mix of both ?
The set up I have is Simple, Hobbs Switch turns on at 7psi boost, Just after ideas of what works best.
Dose methanol have any advers affects on the motor?

Thanks

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180B Supercharged Haltech injection,Methanol injection,73' cam 75mm throttle body U67 open chamber L20 head series 2 elec BB Dizy 10psi ......Sweeeeet

Just straight water.
Methanol is used in the water as an anti freeze.
Water is a better anti detonant.
We used to mix 10% (max) water with methanol (in the can)
to further increase the detonation point.
I would recommend you set the hobbs switch to about 4 psi.

or add another switch and nozzle at 8lbs to max 1cc per min per hp
this will reduce charge temp below ambient without intercooler.

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A little knowledge is a dangerous thing.
www.datsport.com

"R.I.P. Baz. 29 April 2022. Thank you for all your contributions to the Datsun community over the years. You will be missed." - OZDAT

Cool , thans Baz

do you run the water through the Blower?, Might atomize a bit better ?

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180B Supercharged Haltech injection,Methanol injection,73' cam 75mm throttle body U67 open chamber L20 head series 2 elec BB Dizy 10psi ......Sweeeeet

Yes by all means run it through the blower.
The toyota blowers seem to handle it ok.
No probs in 30,000Ks UNTIL Tracy ran the beast
out of injection water. 13lbs on a hot day trying to break the
sound barrier & did not hear the little men with hammers
Put a warning system on the water tank.

Did it again

_________________
A little knowledge is a dangerous thing.
www.datsport.com

"R.I.P. Baz. 29 April 2022. Thank you for all your contributions to the Datsun community over the years. You will be missed." - OZDAT

I run a striaght water inj kit on my Z18et, through the turbo. After 15000ks the only thing i noticed is a little discoloration on the compressor blades, which wiped off with my hand. I ve had none of the 'chipping' that I've read about on rice forums. My Hobbs is set to come on at 4p.s.i. (because your at about 7p.s.i by the time the water gets to the cylinder. Its a fraction of a second between 4p.s.i and 7p.s.i too!) My nozzle..ahem...sprays 250ml per minute when tested with the engine running 2000rpm (there seems to be a little extra voltage with the revs, as when i tested it idling, it gave only 210ml per minute). I have added 10% methanol (disgusting stuff...carcenogenic, invisible fires, eats every known material!!) and gained a little extra in the mid range with tuning. I once used to add 10% meth to the fuel tank directly, and give the old girl a shake! I knew what i was doing would result in stuffed fuel pumps, injectors and lines, but i could run 20p.s.i with the water injection and no pinging (however, new pistons were required!!!!)
However, i now only use water. For a while now I have been thinking about running a two stage system like Baz described.......22p.s.i....hmmm
I love water injection and recommend it.

Aaron

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Cheers,

Aaron

oh btw, i dunno what type of nozzle your using, but I mail ordered mine from Spraying Systems in melbourne. It was a Uni jet TX size 6. Had a 1/4 barbed hose tail, and a check valve and filter in the body. Was $11 all up.
If you can set up your water system as a boost pressure type (i.e a sealed water vessel, with boost pressurising it and pushing it through a hose to the nozzle) they have an 'air atomizing' range of nozzles that the boost pressured water to feed in one side of the nozzle, and the boost pressure air itself to feed in the other side. The pressured water flows through the centre of the nozzle, and the boosted air is aimed at the water jet coming out, to smash it into tiny tiny little droplets, almost like a thick fog. Awesome nozzle (pn SUE18A)

http://www.ispray.com/sc_app/sc_descrip ... de=0,0,0,0

Later dude,

Aaron

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Cheers,

Aaron

just to throw another idea into the pot...

about running it at 4 psi - that might be ok for some motors.. but not all
eg my 240Z turbo ran worse if I had the water injection kick in at anything under 14/15 psi.... you could hear (and feel) the note of the motor change....
but at 14/15psi you couldn't hear (or feel) any change (except for the lack of pinging when it hit 22+ psi)
but that motor would run 17psi on pump fuel (back in the old days when super really was super) with no water injection and no detonation
(small bottle use to run out on me all the time....)

not to say 4psi won't be right for you... just you might need to experment a bit to find that sweet spot .... though with a 9psi turbo setup on a Std L18, 4psi is probably around the right point... (all depending on nozzle size and flow rate etc)
better still - dual stage like Baz suggested...
or .....
the ultimate is a variable flow rate setup like I am building into the soon to be released Ozdat TCS (turbo control system)

hehe....i forgot to mention that! Please dont take 4 p.s.i. as the 'right' setting for waterinjection switch-on!! test the motor gradually like jamesf suggested!!

Oops!!

James very interested in your variable control for water injection.
does it need a high pressure supply?
Have a few ideas on this.
Water injection is sadly not used as frequently as it should.
More power, less fuel,less emissions, clean ports & chambers and
its only water.
What else can do this???????

_________________
A little knowledge is a dangerous thing.
www.datsport.com

"R.I.P. Baz. 29 April 2022. Thank you for all your contributions to the Datsun community over the years. You will be missed." - OZDAT

Baz

Lots of ideas/theory on the delivery system - at this stage I have been just working on the electronics - incorporating it into the next version of the OZDAT TCS... Once I have Beta 3 finished (tcs with the water injection control included) then I will start to work on the delivery system a little more....
I have a few ideas going around in my head... just couldn't test any of them until I got the control side of it sorted....
I too have been a big fan of water injection since my carby turbo days.. even set it up on my starion.. was able to run it up to 19psi with a fully std motor and no intercooler ...

this leads me to another good point for discussion... Ignoring how you get it in there for now (pumps/pressure/nozzles/etc) - where do you think the best point of entry into the system is... before turbo or after it

So far all my systems have been before turbo setups... (but then none of my other cars have had intercoolers before the gtr.... so I guess that answers that one - have to go after cooler.....)

i have heard that its better before the turbo in a draw through setup as the turbo will SMASH the water droplets into even smaller particles hence mixing more with the fual and air mix.. (it will become more like thin steam)

if u spray into the inlet it may not be broken down as much and wont evenly distribute itself amongst all 4 cylinders.

check this out on ebay..

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll ... eName=WDVW

run a tube off your inlet to this switch (just like u run a tube 4 ur boost guage).....

u can set this on whatever boost setting u want, when desired boost is reached, it will close the circuit and then power up your water injection device (wiper fluid pump)..

sounds cool

im in the need for water injection now, running on a L20B N\A with 45mm webbers
running very high comp ratio with flat top pistons and a closed chamber A87 head
done some research and found that water injection can help this
need to build a system to work without a pressure switch (as its non turbo)
anyone done this kidna thing?
what water pump to use and what jets/ where to get them?
ive heard shurflo i think it is water pump with built in pressure switch for 50psi?

arent you gonna turbo ur car freestyler??

James,

Apparently (and it kind of makes sense) that if you put the entry point for the water before the turbo you will eventually wear away the edge of the compressor wheels: water is a lot harder than air after all.

That being said you would be expecting to get better water atomisation thanks to the compressor wheel spinning at some tens of thousands of revolutions.

Me, I'd be looking at injecting it around the t/b (depends on how its set up of course: pre or post) at as an acute an angle as possible.

Wouldn't be too hard to try different places though I guess.
Regards,

Dave

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