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 Post subject: r31 rear brake brackets
PostPosted: Sun Jun 03, 2012 9:49 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jun 13, 2011 12:04 pm
Posts: 171
Location: North Nowra/Winmalee
Hey guys i am trying to modify my r31 rear brake brackets. Today i welded up the holes, and being a critical component i hit the welds to test there strength. The welds came loose with a few hits. The areas welded were cleaned. What do you reckon went wrong? Should i just buy some from maddat or datsport maybe my welding skills are rubbish :D . Are the maddat holes welded up and relocated?

Cheers,

Richard.


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 03, 2012 10:08 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jul 04, 2010 10:18 am
Posts: 1571
Hey mate,

Possibly:
- Holes/area wasn't clean before welding (Get in there with a wire wheel/dremel first)
- Bad weld penetration, check the welder settings are correct for the thickness of the steel, maybe to low

Cheers,

Trent

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 03, 2012 10:21 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jun 13, 2011 12:04 pm
Posts: 171
Location: North Nowra/Winmalee
I played around with the settings maybe i will turn it up more. So i take it the welds shouldnt be able to be hit out then :lol: .

Cheers,

Richard.


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 03, 2012 10:24 pm 
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Joined: Wed Dec 09, 2009 8:34 pm
Posts: 441
Location: sydney
crank your power and wire settings up because those brackets are pretty thick


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 05, 2012 12:29 am 
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Posts: 651
When welding cast you need to pre heat the cast material till it's glowing red. Then weld the sh*t out of it. You need to release the carbon layer embedded in the cast surface prior till applying the weld.

If you can't hit it with an oxy. Crank the welder lol.


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 05, 2012 5:02 am 
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Joined: Mon Jun 15, 2009 12:15 pm
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Location: Cairns
Sanouske wrote:
When welding cast you need to pre heat the cast material till it's glowing red. Then weld the sh*t out of it. You need to release the carbon layer embedded in the cast surface prior till applying the weld.

If you can't hit it with an oxy. Crank the welder lol.
are they cast? i thought they where just pressed. i did what everyone has said, clean in and around the hole and wind the amps up :twisted:


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 06, 2012 12:22 am 
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Joined: Fri Jul 16, 2004 11:46 pm
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Location: 3910 Another Peninsula Boy
The brackets are stamped from cold rolled mild steel plate.

Lay the bracket flat on a non heat conducting (non metallic) surface (such as a fire brick) to maximise the heat retained in the weld pool as you fill the holes. Build up the weld around the perimeter of the hole first using max amps, then add progressive weld beads inwards until you have a small hole to fill. When fully welded, grind the welds flat with the surrounding surface to ensure the holes are fully filled with metal. Redrill the holes in their correct locations for the 1600/180B trailing arms using the discarded brake drum backing plate for a template.

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