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PostPosted: Thu Jul 05, 2012 2:03 pm 
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Location: Mont Albert, Melbourne
Yeah well its only got 3 chopper plates now (one was about to fall off) pretty dodgy setup that i want out of my car asap! I don't know much about how to wire these things up, so help to install would be fantastic neil, and 120 sounds like a pretty good deal to me. heath came and had a look at it yesterday, said to remove the ballast resistor, just rewire straight to the new coil, its also got some sort of modulator? which may or may not need to be removed/kept. and a 12v relay that is there due to the resistor, I'm guessing would be removed with the resistor? when heath explained it to me it made sense, but actually doing it, i would be at a complete loss.
Saturday arvo works for me, any time suits. Maybe if heaths free we can arrange something with him as well, otherwise ill PM you my address and number. Thanks again neil for your help!

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1972 P230 Series Datsun 240C Coupe // Project
1982 Toyota Corolla KE70 Sedan // Daily


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 05, 2012 4:29 pm 
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Luckily I saved all the links on my phone that I used to wire mine up - basically your 240 should have a ballast resistor of 1.5ohms, then a coil with 1.5ohm resistance as well. the new coil that I have (flamethrower 40,000v) is a 3ohm coil which doesn't require the resistor at all. So we delete it, wire the +12V to the coil, then the ground that goes to the dizzy and put the pertronix sensor on the dizzy shaft (and hope that it's the same as my L26 dizzy shaft - should be I think) and fire it up and cross our fingers.

I'll bring my car so we can reference the wiring - should be simple enough and pretty similar. No idea what the modulator is - probably an ignitor which we can probably delete?

Heath will know what to do, he **** lives and breathes these old cars haha


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 05, 2012 4:30 pm 
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Actually it's quite impressive that it runs on 3 or 4 cylinders - the engine must be reasonably healthy lol


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 05, 2012 9:18 pm 
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Location: Mont Albert, Melbourne
It took quite a bit out of the battery to get it started on the 3 cylinders, but once it was running it held quite well, but sounded very sick.
I don't know much about dizzys, but it has been fitted with some kind of aftermarket electronic setup? I'm not sure if the shaft is still the same as what came with the original l24. Here are a few more photos if it gives you a better idea.

[ img ]

[ img ]

[ img ]

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 05, 2012 10:12 pm 
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Location: Melbourne Doncaster
Hezath wrote:
Two of those chopper plates have broken off LOL

I think your kit may be a winner Neil. Brendan lives 2min drive from me

:lol: That explains a bit!! didnt notice that in the dark. was trying to get my head around there being 4 blades but didnt even think that there where two missing

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 05, 2012 11:24 pm 
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Location: Box Hill, Eastern Suburbs of Melbourne
The modulator Brendan is talking about is what I believe to be the ignition module that's part of the aftermarket electronic ignition kit in the distributor.

I dare say the distributor shafts should be the same but incase we need it, I should have an L26 distributor lying around somewhere from my car, I don't think I've given it to anyone else.

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 05, 2012 11:45 pm 
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pull the rotor off brendan, and the chopper plate arms, and give us a look at the actual shaft itself. Should just be an aftermarket kit, yeah, with what sounds like an aftermarket ignitor as well. The sensor is the bit the chopper plate arms move through, that dictates the spark dwell and whatnot.

I believe there may be some substantial dicking around to remove the ignitor but it should be reasonably easy to copy the wiring from heath's and my car to return it to normal. I've got a multimeter to check stuff if we need it.


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 05, 2012 11:50 pm 
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Location: Mont Albert, Melbourne
Yeah you were right heath, its the power module part of the ignition kit put in. This is the one here http://www.newtronic.co.uk/new/main.php/optron/. Wondering how well this might run with the gt40r coil, the conversion seems okay, minus those broken plates :P. Is the pertronix kit a magnetic pickup neil?

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 05, 2012 11:51 pm 
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I just had another look at your relay and ignitor - the relay will be there to feed power to the ignitor direct from the battery when IGN is on. Could be worth keeping the relay there, just remove ignitor and feed the power to where it needs to go. There looks to be lots of superfluous stuff there to drive the ignitor.


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 05, 2012 11:57 pm 
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Yeah the pertronix is a magnetic thing - has a good reputation. if you can get spare parts maybe it's worth trying to salvage that kit - but it's gotta come from the UK


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 06, 2012 6:25 pm 
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Mmm, i think the lumenition one i have now has optical pickups, and ide much rather prefer the magnetic ones, been reading that they are much better in a lot of aspects. I've PMed details for tomorrow arvo if you're still keen.

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1982 Toyota Corolla KE70 Sedan // Daily


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 08, 2012 3:56 pm 
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Location: Melbourne Doncaster
And she runs properly!! now for the bodywork :S

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 21, 2012 3:22 pm 
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Location: Mont Albert, Melbourne
So haven't been up to much due to work/the snow, just been cleaning up bits and pieces, been through so much degreaser! Today I flushed the coolant system, first of all couldn't figure out how to get the radiator drainage cap off?? or if i was attacking the right one? (any help here?) so instead i just pulled off the large hose from the radiator to the engine (where the thermostat lies), put a bucket under that hose and used a pressure hose to flush things out after running the car for 10-15minutes to get all the crap into re-solution. Still need to open the drainage cap if I want to replace the water with fresh coolant.

Also had a look at the thermostat, think it might be stuck open, engine takes a long time to warm up, and coolant is flowing straight away when the engine is just turned on. Any recommended/cheap replacements? Or maybe it just needs to be adjusted?

Now am going back to autobarn to buy more degreaser while the sun is out! Also interior vinyl dying should get done overnight hopefully. Is there some sort of way/standard to know what to spray matt, and what to spray gloss?

Cheers, all help with these things much appreciated!

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 21, 2012 3:42 pm 
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Location: Box Hill, Eastern Suburbs of Melbourne
I think the finish of the died surface may simply be determined by the original finish of what you're dying. I don't know if you can really influence it.

Just buy a new 87 degree (or thereabouts) thermostat. Should only cost $15 or so, and will definitely extend the life of your engine. I think they go crap after time anyway and no longer open/close when they should.

I don't know about the drainage plug in the radiator - as long as everything is flushed pretty thoroughly, just connect it up and fill it again (you can buy new radiator hoses quite easily too if you want, but the rest of the hoses are a little trickier to source, albeit possible) but make sure you put a bit of filter in there. I have some plastic gauze you're more than willing to come and grab a square of. Means that all the stuff that has been dislodged in the 'flush' isn't going to go and clog the little ports in your radiator!

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1975 911S Targa
1978 Torana Hatch
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 21, 2012 4:02 pm 
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how do i get the water out to replace it with coolant though if i can't drain it?

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