wiseys180 yeh i have already bought a new 3 core aluminium radiator so the rusty water wont be an issue from now on.

this is what i was talking about.. a mate mentioned something about sea foam or something like that to clean it out when i have the engine back in and running??
just not sure.

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Current project 1975 180b
http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=29304

great going on the bee.... if you want to eliminate the rust scale while you have the motor out i suggest popping your welch plugs out...not a couple but all of them ... let the jackets dry out and get some compressed air into the welch plug holes and give it a good old blow out. you dont want a new rad filling up and i always change welch plugs whenever a pull an engine out. they are only a few bucks each and give me peice of mind that i dont expect a leak. thats only my opinion.

+1, didn't realize you had the motor out. Welsh plugs are cheapish, readily available and Easy to change. Allows you to get something in there to give it a more thorougher clean. Even with a new radiator you will find there is plenty of gunk still in the system. The heater core is a good gunk store. Can do a better job if you pull the engine apart as well, (welsh plug in the front timing case and clean galleries between head + block) however its a bit out the way if your not already pulling it apart for other reasons. But welsh plugs out + give it a good clean out with high pressure air / water / a hose etc, clean out the heater and connecting hoses and then run some flush through the system once its back together and drop the water a few times should get it more then good enough. Esp being you wernt having and problems with it to start with.

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My garage:
180b sedan daily (needs some TLC)
180B sss (under restoration)
180b Wagon daily
http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f= ... 9&start=30

Catching up on your progress - its moving along well!

1
I would persist with the twin SU carbs. My son has a set up same as yours running in his L18 powered Datsun 1600 daily driver. Very reliable and economical, as well as allowing the engine to breathe better than a single carb setup. Read the literature on tuning and you will find them easy to set up, balance and once done, basically forget them.

2
Here is a contact for replacement of those pesky clips that rust on the lower front guards.
http://www.rageem.com.au/html/products.html

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RichardC
SSS016

Datlove and wiseys appreciate it. Am getting into it this weekend as
Its the first one I have had spare for a while so I will give it a good clean out.

Wiseys agreed that I dont have any real reason to strip it completely down
As it ran sweet before pulled apart from sh***y carb and not going as far as
Boring it out and what not (yet haha)

Richardc appreciate the feedback!! I decided to stick with the su's
I put a fair bit of work into them and I'm not going crazy overboard with the engine.
But good to see some su love haha seems rare

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Current project 1975 180b
http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=29304

small update!
went to visit the old girl for a couple of hours this morning to get a better idea on some of the things i need to get to finish her off.
while i was there decided i would clean up the engine a bit.
exhaust side only got a light clean.. need to get a wire brush to get in the fine points.
came up fantastic.. i am looking at painting the block, leaving the head as is and not sure if i am going to polish
or paint the valve cover?

hoping to duck down again tomorrow and pull a few more things out of the engine bay and clean it up..
hoping to have it sent off to have the rust repaired (which is minimal) and get resprayed!
keeping it original colour as it has grown on me.. and depending on how things go once the vinyl roof is off (rust) i will decide whether or not i will be putting on a vinyl roof back on. I REALLY WANT TO!!!

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Current project 1975 180b
http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=29304

dont take the vinyl roof off just till you are ready to get another sorted because it will shrink back mine shrank back loads luckily charlie the trimmer i used was used to this kind of thing and cut up the sections all sweet.



ps

your refurbished struts are sitting 4 feet from me lol

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1600s arent the only datsun

Yeh my vinyl roof is stuffed to say the least.. So am getting a new one. Had my trimmer come down and get the measurements and pattern soughted!
Hoping to have it off to body and paint in the next two weeks..
Thinking of changing the seat trim colour too.. Was thinking black carpet, brown leather seats and door cards in the same original pattern?

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Current project 1975 180b
http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=29304

SERIES 2 not 3

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68 510 - soon to be restored into a replica 68sss
69 510 - current build - L20b turbo
91 GT turbo legacy
GET THAT DATSUN DIFFERENCE!

Scored another bonnet for the bee..
Downside is the "webbing" is coming loose on the underside.. Can this be spot welded back into place?
Other than that it's in fantastic condition with no rust.

Have a free weekend so looking at getting into the engine bay!

Cheers

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Current project 1975 180b
http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=29304

Don't spot weld the webbing up to the skin ,this will buckle the outter.

just use some stikafex to hold it up

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68 510 - soon to be restored into a replica 68sss
69 510 - current build - L20b turbo
91 GT turbo legacy
GET THAT DATSUN DIFFERENCE!

That's Sikaflex (you'd think it would be "Stika" because of what it does but Sika is actually the company name) and there are different varieties but they make an excellent automotive caulking compound. Your panelbeater should have some.
Cheers!

Due to changed circumstances i will be selling the B
All parts must go..
Will be posting a thread tonight with a full list.
If you see anything you need get in contact with me
I work for a courier company so can post aus wife for fairly cheap!

Cheers

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Current project 1975 180b
http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=29304