hey there. can one make a strut brace that is welded together instead of the ones you buy that are bolted together tight. can you just bolt the tower tops on then weld the link to both bits?

would it be best to have the car at normal road height or jacked up, or other, when welding the link?

Im trying to save a bit of money and make my own so would be good if its possible.

thinking of just round bar squished at both ends then welded on to the strut top bits around the squished bit.

would it be worth triangulating it back to the firewall? (no reinforcing there though) to a flat bit that bolts to the fire wall or over kill?

i have always modified a silvia strut brace. Have made two

They are very cheap second hand.
Just need to section in the middle and weld back together at the required length

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Circuit Race 1600 in the build

ok, I think its ok to build a one piece strut bar. i kind of thought it might be too rigid

I didn't really like the bolted joints that seem to be in most braces. but there are some one piece ones for other cars so good for the Datsun too I guess.

steel will be cheap and can weld it myself. just the ends that need laser cutting. shouldn't be too expensive. hopefully not too heavy.

The only problem with welding in the strut brace is if it's across from the strut to strut (the most strongest design), you can't get the motor out!
Bracing back to the firewall can fix this (triangulate), but basically I think the bolted in option is pretty good.
Welding in a brace also introduces shrinkage, so you have to weld it in when the car is unloaded. I did this on the rear end. Shrinkage will pull it in and you have to counter this somehow so it all ends up as per 'normal'.

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1972 Datsun 1600, S14 SR20DET Engineered (204rwkW @ 17psi.)
viewtopic.php?t=6579
#SR20Datsun @SR20Datsun

For a light strong bar use 1600,180B etc, top pillow mounts, knock out the studs & cut the rubber section off.
The rings that are left are inverted, & tubing attached.

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A little knowledge is a dangerous thing.
www.datsport.com

"R.I.P. Baz. 29 April 2022. Thank you for all your contributions to the Datsun community over the years. You will be missed." - OZDAT

Excellent idea!

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1972 Datsun 1600, S14 SR20DET Engineered (204rwkW @ 17psi.)
viewtopic.php?t=6579
#SR20Datsun @SR20Datsun

haha, I didn't mean weld to the car I just meant weld the whole brace (as opposed to the jointed ones) as a one piece then bolt to the normal strut top bolts.

don't really understand your idea Baz but will read it a few more times.

OK I think I got it now.

use the strut tops but cut off the rubber cut out the threads then i have something to weld to without needing a laser cut piece. sounds good (and cheap)

so to make the one piece brace i would weld the middle to the ends when the car is up on jacks?

I thought...bolt ends on to struts then get middle section and weld each end to the strut bits. keep car on wheels whilst doing this so chassis will be in normal everyday position when brace is being used?

Hahahahah... No I miss understood your first post!
All you have to do is get it approximately right weld it all up and hopefully there should be enough slop in the bolt holes for you to bolt the fully welded brace on! Easy!

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1972 Datsun 1600, S14 SR20DET Engineered (204rwkW @ 17psi.)
viewtopic.php?t=6579
#SR20Datsun @SR20Datsun

they are also very strong & light due to the "u" shape..

Used these bars on rally cars etc.

25mm light tube with "Y" shape at the ends to attach to the towers.

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A little knowledge is a dangerous thing.
www.datsport.com

"R.I.P. Baz. 29 April 2022. Thank you for all your contributions to the Datsun community over the years. You will be missed." - OZDAT

That's how dad made his on his rally car back in the early 80's. Never had one issue!

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Ongoing Project: 1972 Datsun 510 S13 SR20Det. http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=17898
New Daily: D22 Navara (The new workhorse)
Retired 12/2016: MY98 Subaru Impreza RX
Previous Car: Restored Green 1972 Datsun 510, Hot L18

ok there were a few options available quite cheap locally but the best was the silvia one that lampy mentioned, as I picked up a $60 dollar one today and will just use the steel end bits and weld a bar across each end

very cheap, very good

Pics ?

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Happiness is watching the race.... in your rearview mirror

should make pics soon.
I decided to not weld the whole thing as a solid piece. it just seems a bit to rigid for a predominately road car and may crack my poor weldmanship.