Long story short I brought a cheap 1600 while ago finally have put everything back together. Now I'm up to the wiring stage.... Last owner has done some serious back yard wiring. Couple of the fuses were rusted so he cut wires and joined them anywhere he wanted. Car starts and runs now. But it's got a l18 engine in it and he's removed the alternator regulator and bridged 2 wires. How can I tell if it has a built in regulator? Also my wipes stay on even if I turn the car off. I'm
Putting that down to a faulty switch. Also having problems with Parker's and indicators not working. Now with the indicators when I switch to left or right. The little globes behind the dash slowly light up And don't flash and are very hard to see any light even with the globes in my hand. Where are the flasher unit in these cars? Going to get the wiring diagrams out next weekend see how it goes. If anyone has had these problems or knows what to fix ill be jumping for joy so i won't have to waste time with a multimeter all day. Cheers

Edit. I think I found the flasher unit round silver thing under the dash. It's got 12 volts going in and out. No clicking tho. I was thinking cos the dash lights a so dull maybe I got some resistance somewhere and there's not enought current for the flash unit to work. I'll try put it over the battery. Maybe bad earth.
One more question did 1600 come with hazard switch?

Now you're talking!
Also check that the hazard switch, if fitted, is wired in.
If not fitted, there should be a bridging wire in the loom plug to allow the indicators to function.
An alternator with an internal VR looks like this: -

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Regards, Graeme
Just trying to help...
http://nissanman.shutterfly.com/
graemes@internode.on.net

Yea that looks like the alternator I have. Where abouts is the wires for the hazard light switch

There is a white wiring socket up above the steering column, behind the dash. The factory inserted a green wire link into the socket bridging terminals 4 & 5 to maintain the indicator wiring if the hazard switch was not fitted.

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Regards, Graeme
Just trying to help...
http://nissanman.shutterfly.com/
graemes@internode.on.net

So far I've fixed about 6 different wires the last owner cut. I've also replaced couple earths. Put a new flasher in. All indicators work, parks work, rear lights work. Now for the headlights n/s high and low beam work good. But o/s are terrible very very dull. If I look into the globe it has both high and low beam on at the same time. After 15 mins of it doing my head in I worked out its negative switch. Which did my head in even more how can half the car( parks rear lights) work on positive and the headlights on negitive. Who ever though I this was off there chops. Also o/s has new headlights so it's not them. Anyone else have this problem? Might have to buy couple more relays and rewire so I can switch them to positive switching. Wat would I do if I didn't have a Datto. Probably alot of spare time and money.

Three words explains this madness,
"Too much Saki"

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Regards, Graeme
Just trying to help...
http://nissanman.shutterfly.com/
graemes@internode.on.net

could be worse, it could be positively earthed

Wot's wrong with positive earth????

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Regards, Graeme
Just trying to help...
http://nissanman.shutterfly.com/
graemes@internode.on.net

Ohhhh mate definitely to much of something! Nissanman ever heard of one side of the headlights are dull? Or am i a chasing a losing battle and just rewire it?

Huh now u lost be postive earth?

Dull globes and both filaments glowing is symptomatic of a missing ground connection to that globe.
The current is feeding back though the other filament.
My '65 Fairlady has positive ground.
Must remember that when/if I jump start it

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Regards, Graeme
Just trying to help...
http://nissanman.shutterfly.com/
graemes@internode.on.net

haha nothing wrong with it but i have seen more than 1 mechanic come unstuck

Cheers mate I'll try looking for some missing earths. my wiring diagrams of the light switch and relay is completely different wires to wat I have. Might have to take all the tape off and trace them back.

correct me if i am wrong but normally you negatively switch 12v circuits..... apart from comercially avaible appliances... from the thread i would start again.... i had a vehicle 15years ago that unbeknown to me the prior owner or their tech did some electrical work, everything seemed to work fine..... then one afternoon after picking the kids up from school it burst into flames..... foryunately we all got out alive but my 8month old purchase was a rightoff. found the cause, worked out that they had swapped the evap case and in the mentime damaged wiring which dead shorted the fuse and relay box and up it went! my opinion is if in doubt swap it out.... peace of mind.

Most cars today are positive switched besides some old cars. I've only seen this kinda of headlight setup in a 1600 and an old sigma. Doesnt really matter just means the switch is after the load and not before. Only Reason i can see negitive switchig to be a benefit maybe less corosion in the wires??? They reckon if u put current through metal it won't rust as fast. But that could be bullshit.