howdy all. considering building a 2.4 stroker turbo for the ol Stanza. advice on parts and whatnot are appreciated. cheers

Must grind castings off con rods then get them shot peened and compression will be uber high so you will need to lower it by milling pistons, open chamber head etc..z24 crank (counterweights machined), l20b rods, z22e pistions milled to your specs also grind castings off rocker arms, it makes a huuuuggge difference and is alot more rev happy

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tradesafe: Dazda, 2ndTimeStanza, Qeleh, big mac, hatchman


1979 Datsun Sunny Wagon 13b Turbo conversion: http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=60&t=28890

I have a 2.4 stroker in a 1200 coupe, I have been advised not to take it above 6200rpm or there is a good chance that i will snap the crank. just thought i would bring this up as a consideration, it was a very reliable source.
Mine has an old L20b Block with the filter straight out the side as apparently they have a bit more meat in them where you need to grind for clearance than the late model with the oil filter pointing up.
Z24 crank machined, Z24 pistons, unknown rods, U67 head and a compression ratio of 10.5-1. I did not build the engine myself so i cant comment on the process, this just what i have learnt along the way.

z22 block with L20b crank, z20e rods, z24 milled pistons 89.5mm = 2164cc
would be a better combo full counterweight crank and most 300hp turbos
of the ball bearing design love anything 2ltr capacity.
The 86mm stroke with z20e rods gives you 1.773 rod stroke ratio meaning
you can rev it to 8300rpm if rods and head is prepped.

I have z24 crank, 200b L20 block. and a u67 head. and also found a steel turbo head gasket. so I will be using those I rekn. not sure what pistons would be best to use.

89mm bores are not good for boosted L series.
Even when bored with a strainer plate, bore flex will occur.
I have measured up to .004" bore distortion.
Bore flex will happen with a high comp NA engine as well.
With my own 2140 rally engines 89x86 I fitted C sleeves to stop the bore flex.
Bore flex will increase blow by & loss of power at higher RPMs.

With boosted engines keep the bore size down & increase boost.

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A little knowledge is a dangerous thing.
www.datsport.com

"R.I.P. Baz. 29 April 2022. Thank you for all your contributions to the Datsun community over the years. You will be missed." - OZDAT

Z22 block are 87mm but rare, love a sleeved L series from Baz!

thanks for all the input fellas. keep it rolling haha its all trial and error I guess. im thinking the l20 block with a sleeved 87mm bore ,z24 crank the L20 rods, and z22 pistons will be the go. u67 head get it flowing a bit more. decent cam and set a rev limiter at 6200. hope for the best.

What would be the power and reliability differences between a 2.4 stroker limited to 6500 and a worked 2L reving to 7500-8?

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Chris Thomas

1971 1600, mild L18, 5 speed

All I want is less to do, more time to do it and higher pay for not getting it done.

I met a guy near me around 7-10years ago that had a light green 1600 sedan with a L20B (2.4) stoker turbo.
I think his name was Jason? Baz might remember/know of him still.
Havnt seen the car since but remember him saying it didnt like reving that much.
If the turbo is sized correctly it would be a very strong motor but wouldnt have much of a rev range and revs help power.
Do it if your heart is set on it, but its going to get costly too if you do it properly with efi and intercooling etc...

think you mean bored to 87mm not sleeved otherwise Baz could sleeve it to 89mm.
L20b Crank would be a better choice with big bores, they are a legend of a crank.
Z22 blocks already 87mm same height as L20B block but can be bored more again.

What are you planning on using the car for?

road use. cant get enough of that piggy Datsun feeling haha. D I do mean bored then sleeved then bored again to 87. maybe 89. havn't completely decided on the turbo for it yet. or anything really for that matter. just getting peoples opinions, thoughts and advice together whilst i'm collecting parts.

Baz can prep a block with 89 maybe a tad bigger sleeves, I dont know the limit for sleeving an L series?
Along with your L20b crank and prepped rods would make a bullet proof Turbo motor which would be
more reliable than a non counterweight Z24 cranked L20b.
The modern 1.6-2Lt turbos these days boost up quicker and dont require massive capacity a slight 140-170cc increase over 2L is better than 400cc as you can revv to 7500-8000 rpm reliably rather than worry about 6500rpm.

That been said a good stock prepped L20b with good manifolding, fuel tuning and quality turbo is all you really need.

I've got a stock l20 (except cam and some head porting). All i gave it for prep was rings and bearings. It has a r32 turbo and 440cc injectors. This car is performing really well for the money i put in. 127kw and 330nm at the wheels. I'm really happy with the decisions i've made but would not consider investing any more money in an l series with the other engine choices out there.

having said that what you are suggesting sounds pretty unique.