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PostPosted: Tue Feb 04, 2014 8:03 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jan 25, 2013 7:38 am
Posts: 30
stock L20 turbo would be cool also on the cards and and I wouldn't go any further in the bores than 89 for the non turbo stroker. so 87 seems like a reasonable number for a turbo. don't want to go go down the sr or fj road keep it old school I say. I know they cant really compete without big dollars but that's fine with me I don't play with datto's to compete in anything definatly cant afford that haha


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 04, 2014 9:09 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jun 15, 2009 12:15 pm
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Location: Cairns
just use a stock l-series and boost the **** out of it :twisted: spend the $$$$$ on good efi stuff you will you will thank yourself for it :wink:


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 05, 2014 6:20 pm 
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haha na im going to stick to carbs for now.


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 05, 2014 9:26 pm 
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Location: melbourne
you're kidding me? That is way too much engine work for a draw through or blow through turbo. Ask anyone (myself included) who's had a draw through turbo. There is a very good reason I switched to efi. Carby turbo can be heaps of fun but If you are going this route then definitely just use a standard l series. Otherwise take the money you planned to spend on the engine and get an efi turbo going.


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 06, 2014 12:15 pm 
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Location: Belco, act
stoutcatcher wrote:
you're kidding me? That is way too much engine work for a draw through or blow through turbo. Ask anyone (myself included) who's had a draw through turbo. There is a very good reason I switched to efi. Carby turbo can be heaps of fun but If you are going this route then definitely just use a standard l series. Otherwise take the money you planned to spend on the engine and get an efi turbo going.
+1

draw thru will vaporise fuel because of heat from the turbo and blow thru is hard to tune right, standard l20b with good efi and turbo set up or even cheap efi, standard l18e bits or mircro tech digi 2 etc.. spend money on engine for n/a power unless you can spend heaps on both

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 06, 2014 1:01 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jul 27, 2005 4:45 pm
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Location: Zombie-free unfluoridated town in QLD
Theres more possible from the over-engineered L20B look at this well sorted one running flat 13 seconds

http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=62&t=32113

A well sorted NA L20B can put out 215-220hp so double that for boost numbers if not a tad more with
todays Turbos, efi management systems & tune knowledge. Ls are underrated & stronger than late motors.


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 06, 2014 7:47 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jan 25, 2013 7:38 am
Posts: 30
all food for thought that's for sure. you never know one of each might happen yet lol its all time and money so nothing might happen for a while yet either. cheers everyone appreciate it.


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 06, 2014 8:00 pm 
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Location: Cairns
don't think about it to much :wink: just do it :twisted:
some inspiration 8) http://youtu.be/d8M6g6TVQig


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 07, 2014 12:41 am 
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Location: Zombie-free unfluoridated town in QLD
schhhhweeet! just over 300hp and almost 300lbs of torque, perfect!


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 08, 2014 11:10 am 
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Joined: Fri Jan 25, 2013 7:38 am
Posts: 30
mmm want that 1


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 05, 2014 6:31 pm 
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Posts: 30
I have these parts in mind so far. L20 200b block. sleeved, z24 crank, sr20det forged pistons, z20 rods, u67 head and EFI turbo setup.


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 05, 2014 7:55 pm 
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Location: Lonsdale, South Australia
L20B block, std sr20det pistons, std Z20 rods, 38mm port A87 44mm inlet 36.5 exhaust
SR20DE distributor, modified to fit L series, SRDE computer with nisstune. S15 injectors.
Into centre feed manifold. The shortest exhaust/turbo manifold possible. std S15 turb.
water injection.

This combo will give you over 300HP @ 16lb.

So save your money on the engine build. The 86mm stroke is all you need & will rev a lot harder.

The only difference I would make, with the money I saved would be to use an opcon autorotor in place of the turbo.

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Last edited by Baz on Wed Mar 05, 2014 11:04 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 05, 2014 8:10 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jan 25, 2013 7:38 am
Posts: 30
cool cheers baz. already got the crank but I can always use that in a N/A L20 I guess.


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 18, 2014 8:45 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jan 25, 2013 7:38 am
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l20b 87mm bore, z24 crank, l20 forged rods, sr20det pstons u67 head 8.69 compression according to engine design tool. how would that go with all the efi turbo stuff?


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 19, 2014 9:20 pm 
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Joined: Sat Nov 29, 2008 12:57 am
Posts: 895
Location: Adelaide 5162
Baz wrote:
L20B block, std sr20det pistons, std Z20 rods, 38mm port A87 44mm inlet 36.5 exhaust
SR20DE distributor, modified to fit L series, SRDE computer with nisstune. S15 injectors.
Into centre feed manifold. The shortest exhaust/turbo manifold possible. std S15 turb.
water injection.

This combo will give you over 300HP @ 16lb.

So save your money on the engine build. The 86mm stroke is all you need & will rev a lot harder.

The only difference I would make, with the money I saved would be to use an opcon autorotor in place of the turbo.
Sounds like one hell of a motor, Curious to know what mods have to be done to the sr20de distributor and which centre feed manifold?

Thankyou.

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