Hey all,
Looking for a radiator to run in S14 SR20det 1600. It's going to be driven on the street but mainly on/to the track.

I have searched and read all the options, BMW, Saab, Datsport etc but I am after some feedback.

I want to be able to go to Winton open practice on a Friday and run a full 30min session flat out with out having to worry about temps climbing and dropping the pace to cool down every 5 laps or so.

So who has what and how does it handle high loads for long periods?

I will be running the usual 450 x 300 x 75 FMIC and for now the SR has it's original turbo.

Oil cooler is planned but not on the car yet.

Cheers
Jake

Any decent alloy radiator with the right fans and shrouds set to the right temp (going by your thermostat) will do all that. There are a couple of SR20 datto 1600 radiators on ebay at the moment, they all look like triple flow and would function fine. A high flow thermostat, good water pump and some water wetter and you're set.

James

I haven't been to impressed with the quality of some of the eBay radiators I have seen, I know a few people who have tried them (not in Datsuns) with limited success.

None of them have lasted very long and performance wasn't great.

No other feedback from people using the BMW/Saab/Volvo/Datsport offerings?

I am currently going through the Valeo catalog to see if anything in their range comes close and will provide the performance I need.

Cheers

Check out the Datsport one.

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1600 Build: http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=59&t=22694

I run the Datsport rad in my FJ, a mate runs it in his SR datto, both have been faultless.

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build-threads.com

The thing with track racing is you wont be needing a fan operating while you are on the track. The fan will mainly be used in the pits and waiting on the starting grid (if you have enough time to get warm) If you have good enough baffle plates/ducting which channels the air into the radiator, you should be fine. 1600's have a fair bit of frontal area, so you get a nice high pressure zone at the front.
I think the key also is a thermostated oil cooler to keep oil temperatures in check. This will help when the radiator can't keep up.

I have run the BMW 7 Series radiator at numerous track days (club sprints) with a 450x300x75 intercooler. I'd be able to get 4 ish laps on full noise and then the water temp would get up to 100deg (my cutoff point even though I am running some decent anti boil). Since then I have added ducting/guides/baffles around the radiator to guide more air through the radiator and the difference has been impressive! I haven't had the chance to be on the track yet since these mods, but the drive around town in 40deg heat I have noticed a distinct difference for the better in maintaining optimum 80-90degC temperature.

The main thing if you get a Datsport/BMW/Saab radiator etc. is making sure it works well as a system. You can have the best radiator in the world, but if you don't have air flowing through it, forget it.

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1972 Datsun 1600, S14 SR20DET Engineered (204rwkW @ 17psi.)
viewtopic.php?t=6579
#SR20Datsun @SR20Datsun

Any pics of the extra ducting? Looking to do something similar in the future.

I currently run a PWR setup, but would prefer to move to a different solution that uses a stock factory designed rad with stock fan setup, probably 2 fans that allow me to convert back to a stock fj20 water pump again.

I don't see the value in some of the radiators offered. But then again if you are time poor or have the cash to spend and want something that bolts in, then I guess the value is there for those buyers.

I don't have photos just yet, but I will update my build thread when I have completed a few other mods...

Basically all I did was fold up some aluminium (1mm sheet) and attach it, so they removed all the gaps around the front of the cars sheet metal (where the headlights/grille mount to) which previously allowed air to pass around and not through the radiator.
The small duct/baffles etc. use foam to seal against the radiator and mount hard up against the front of the car using nutserts/M4/M6 bolts.
I'm pretty much forcing all the air that hits the front of the car to go through the radiator instead of spill around into the engine bay.

Some people use foam.

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1972 Datsun 1600, S14 SR20DET Engineered (204rwkW @ 17psi.)
viewtopic.php?t=6579
#SR20Datsun @SR20Datsun

Have you guys with the Datsport ones given them a good workout on the track?

Thanks Nik,
That's the sort of information I was after. Can see the engineer coming out with the in depth analysis you have provided.
Will be keen to see how you go with the ducting added?
What sort of header tank are you running?

Thanks for the feedback so far guys, keep it coming.

Engineer being involved may not be a good idea...
It's a combination of Engineer and trial and error.

I am running a Volvo header tank (same as TurboVan and HailesT).

I'm very keen on getting her back out on the track and see what kind of results I get with the temperature. Based on the initial street tests, it looks pretty good.

The other thing I did was seal the bonnet off against the "bonnet latch/grille holding sheet metal" where the radiator sits up against. This stops air from going over the top through the gap between the bonnet and the radiator/latch/grille holding sheet metal of the car. This gap is quite big and would decrease the pressure drop over the radiator. Another party trick copied off more modern cars... It also stops hot air from rising and coming out over the top of the grille which then gets sucked back in by the thermo fan. Less hot air recirculation...

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1972 Datsun 1600, S14 SR20DET Engineered (204rwkW @ 17psi.)
viewtopic.php?t=6579
#SR20Datsun @SR20Datsun

Hey Nik,
Can you confirm the thickness of the core on your radiator?
I have managed to get on to some OE parts catalogs and it appears the core is available in 34mm and 42mm thicknesses.

Also thats a Volvo 240 header tank isn't it?

Also the BMW018PACA part number is a brand specific aftermarket part number.
The OE part number for the radiator you run is 17111712007.

It was originally fitted to E28 528i, E34 535i, and E32 735i. The V8 radiators (540, 740) are 100mm wider and deeper.

I have come up with a couple of other options from the BMW range. I will update this thread if one of them works out.

Mate, I couldn't tell you the thickness off the top of my head.

Must be a 735 radiator. It's been nearly 8 years since I bought it!

The Volvo header tank is a fairly common volvo part. It's used on heaps of their models
part # is VO-9142000
cap # VO-1357775

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1972 Datsun 1600, S14 SR20DET Engineered (204rwkW @ 17psi.)
viewtopic.php?t=6579
#SR20Datsun @SR20Datsun

Thanks again Nik,

Just waiting for some confirmation on the core sizes of a couple I am looking at then I will make a decision.

Happy to supply part numbers to anyone who wants them too.

Cheers

I am keen on this thread as well. I am looking at changing my radiator/intercooler setup and want some thoughts on radiators. Currently have custom mounted Datsport radiator and PWR cooler, but radiator support had been butchered. Replacing the radiator support now, so looking at going really neat.

Cheers

I've just ordered a radiator for mine.
If it fits up and works well I'll put up the part numbers. It's a BMW unit but a bit bigger than the 735i (Part no. 17111712007) that Nik runs.

Fortunately I have a mate who sells parts so if it doesn't fit I can return it.