So what was the reasoning to go bigger? I assume it's got a thicker core and larger surface area?

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1972 Datsun 1600, S14 SR20DET Engineered (204rwkW @ 17psi.)
viewtopic.php?t=6579
#SR20Datsun @SR20Datsun

The radiator is taller and and 8mm thicker than the 735I rad so larger surface area and greater capacity.
It also has stepped end tanks so "should" fit between the chassis rails where they meet the radiator support panel.

Reasoning for going bigger was increased cooling capacity to handle long sessions, ~30min, on the track with out the need to take it easy after every 6 or so hot laps even with correct ducting/sealing of the rad/ic to the radiator support. A larger sump and oil cooler are also planned to assist with the cooling requirements

Also a good mate works for a Euro parts specialist and he handed me the Valeo catalog which conveniently has all the dimensions of their radiators/intercoolers etc in it. When I found the one that I thought would be the best fit he said he would order a couple in for me and if they don't work out I can return them. The price was also dirt cheap.

Basically I want to be able to thrash the car hard for as long as I want regardless of ambient temperatures.

Here's hoping it works

I don't think it will work for you if it's the e 38 radiator. or the taller "stepped" radiator you talk of. I've posted about that before and tried it myself. it needs to be a max of 400mm high, otherwise you'll have great difficulty making any radiator fit under the bonnet. I know, from trial and my current rad. if it's going inbetween the chassis rails also, you won't be running a 16" Thermo fan. you'll have to run a combo of smaller ones because it'll hit the crank pulley, even if the little belt pulley is paired off!

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Ongoing Project: 1972 Datsun 510 S13 SR20Det. http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=17898
New Daily: D22 Navara (The new workhorse)
Retired 12/2016: MY98 Subaru Impreza RX
Previous Car: Restored Green 1972 Datsun 510, Hot L18

It's not an E38 one.

I should have it today or tomorrow so I will be doing a trial fit up straight away.

If I had my time again on this one I would go the Datsport option and not the BMW one. I think the BMW one is a little too marginal for my liking.

Regards,

Trent

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1600 Build: http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=59&t=22694

I'm eager to see how the larger radiator goes, but I'm not sure you'll have enough 'efficient' air flow to make the most of the bigger surface area and thicker core without some crafty ducting and intercooler placement in an already cramped space.

The thicker core will mean your air flow will decrease through the radiator. Increase the depth, increase the friction and decrease the air flow. If you have an intercooler in front of it, it's going to be even worse.

Because of the large frontal surface area of our 1600's (they are a hell of a lot larger than the surface area of a BMW 735 or S14 silvia), the amount of air entering the engine bay is pretty decent and getting this large quantity of now potentially hot air out is difficult. The system needs to be designed correctly to flow the air correctly for cooling and provide the pressure drop from the front of the car to the engine bay. Then channel this air out of the engine bay to the surroundings. This I think is the cause of cooling issues.

The gap that is around the intercooler in my car has been ducted to pass all air through the radiator and not spill around the sides of the radiator. I have also sealed the top of the bonnet off to prevent the air from passing underneath and pressurising/'choking' the flow through the radiator. This provides greater pressure differential and allows the all important flow from the front of the car through the radiator into the engine bay.

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1972 Datsun 1600, S14 SR20DET Engineered (204rwkW @ 17psi.)
viewtopic.php?t=6579
#SR20Datsun @SR20Datsun

I picked the radiator up today so will hopefully get time to mount it and the intercooler up over the Christmas break.

Proper ducting is part of the overall plan for the install as is sealing off any alternate routes to ensure I make the most of the airflow available.

Have you done anything/looked at any alternatives for getting the air out of the engine bay as my theory is this is the main choke point. If you can't get the air out you can't get in it through the intercooler/radiator to begin with

My suggestion is to look at some later model cars and what they have done.
Each car manufacturer does something different.
The basic principle is to make use of the high pressure zone at the front and low pressure zones elsewhere on the car. The difficulty is finding the low pressure zone. Typically they are behind air dam/spoilers and flat surface in the path of the airflow. There are more than this obviously!
I have used the area behind the Greddy sump to create some semblance of a low pressure zone and the hot air comes out there. I have made a fairly primitive aluminium deflector/guide (similar to the factory OEM stone guard). It's still work in progress, so I'd be eager to see what you come up with!

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1972 Datsun 1600, S14 SR20DET Engineered (204rwkW @ 17psi.)
viewtopic.php?t=6579
#SR20Datsun @SR20Datsun

I've got a couple of ideas.
I am guessing I am more prepared to cut up metalwork than you are to achieve my goals.

Currently leaning towards some form of extraction through the bonnet as well as running a front airdam with an under tray back to the engine cross member.

Follow that up with lots of wool tufts and some judicious placement of the gopro.

Then potentially look at getting engine bay air out in to the wheel arches and venting out behind the front wheels.

Lots to do and think about but I want to take it in stages so I can verify what is working because while I am prepared to cut out metal I would rather not if I don't have to.

Fortunately the car is fully engineered under the previous regs so is already 100% road legal with the S14 SR20det and the 6 point rollcage.

Aint nothing wrong with cutting up the body/guards/firewall/bonnet/etc. to modify the car. I just think I'd like to try a few things first without resorting to modification of the body first. Don't get me wrong, I've ripped heaps of things out and added heaps of bits in. I'm just drawing the line somewhere...
The difficulty to test this stuff is you have to have the car driveable. So it means having the car partially finished to test it before you do the final coat of paint before you cut heaps of stuff out. This also means taking it to the track and testing temps.
Or you can have the car built and then modify as you go.
I'm kind of iterating as I go which is usually small changes first...

Cracks appear in C pillar, ask a few questions, design something up, weld something in, test. Post on here so others can copy when they are building their cars, saving them time.
Copy existing radiator setup from Turbovan, tweak to suit...provide feedback on here!

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1972 Datsun 1600, S14 SR20DET Engineered (204rwkW @ 17psi.)
viewtopic.php?t=6579
#SR20Datsun @SR20Datsun

I bought this 1600 pretty much complete and already engineered, just needed paint (which is now done very cheaply) and some minor reassembly.

I just wanted something I could thrash mercilessly and not worry about too much.

It had had a tap in the front end so it has just had an uncut radiator support put on it so I have a fresh canvas to start cutting up.

Appearance isn't a huge concern to me (Hence the cheap paintjob), performance is. So I have no problem with the car looking patchy at times.

This is also far from my first 1600 build having owned ~20 including everything from a stock SSS sedan, a few hot L series, I built a FJ20et sedan for myself and a SR20det one for my brother and lent a hand with a Z18et and a CA18det build.

This car sorted of landed in my lap for the right price and I couldn't say no. I probably wont keep it more than a couple of years as I have a SSS coupe underway at the moment as a road car, most likely with a LKA, and a 1200 Coupe track car with an LZ14. I also have a 1600 wagon project that I am looking to sell.
You could say I have a problem.

Anyway enough off topic, as I progress with the fit out I'll take pics and report back the results when it is running. I hope to have it on the road for the dyno day in Ballarat

Just be mindful that (according to a rotary engine/car builder I'm friends with) it is now illegal in Victoria to engineer cars that have had bits cut out of them. If you're already engineered you might be okay but worth taking into consideration before you smash the whole front end out of the car.

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green200b - aka Alistair

The fleet:

Australia:
'80 200B GX - the green200b - hibernating
'81 RX-7 - 12A extend port - daily
'74 RX-2 - 13B bridgeport - cruiser

Europe:
'93 200SX - CA18DET - tourer

I won't be smashing the whole front out of the car, I don't plan on cutting anything forward of the radiator support panel (the bent one had been cut for the intercooler but was unpicked and replaced with an original one) apart from maybe a light trim to the inner edge of the front beaver panel.
I will be running all the original front trim and the car will look factory, it has even been painted a 72 240z color.