I'm hoping to start piecing a l18 long rod together in the next few weeks or so. I've got my complete l18 and have some stanza rods (can't find bearing caps atm unfortunately )
So a few questions-

1- can I use the l18 rod caps on the stanza rods?
2- is it just machining 3 mm off the l18 pistons to get to right deck height
3- where or who in melbourne can do this cost effectively

As the pistons are already running well in l18, will just hone bores with new rings.

Any other advice from folks that have done this?

1. Nope. You shouldn't swap rod caps at all. They are a "matched pair" once machined.
2. Yep.
3. Anywhere with a lathe, its pretty basic machining.

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1970 ex Group A Rally P510
1971 P510
1972 180B SSS
1965 SP310 Fairlady
1966 SP311 Fairlady

Well I found the rod caps but how to work out which one matches which rod. At least rods still in block

You can get the big ends "resized" if you aren't 100% sure if the caps match.

Or guess which cap goes with which rod, whack the rod bolts in, torque them up and check for "roundness" with a dial gauge / inside micrometer / etc. Repeat until you get four perfectly round big end eyes.

Basically, the problem is that the line where the rod and cap join may not be perfectly across the centre of the hole for the big end bearing (due to machining tolerances, etc). Only a matter of one or two thou mismatch may mean your big end is tight or loose, depending on how the tolerances stack up when mixing caps on rods. Resizing is having some material machined off the joining surface (effectively making the big end "eye" undersized), then bolting / torqueing them up and having them machined again to get everything spot on.

_________________
1970 ex Group A Rally P510
1971 P510
1972 180B SSS
1965 SP310 Fairlady
1966 SP311 Fairlady

Expensive? Guess means need oversized rod bearings as well now

Any difference between stanza and 1600 rods apart from the bolts (8 mm to 9mm)

I don't believe so.

L24 rods are the same as well.

_________________
1970 ex Group A Rally P510
1971 P510
1972 180B SSS
1965 SP310 Fairlady
1966 SP311 Fairlady

The rods are marked with cylinder numbers, just match up the number on the rods.
Some long rod engines we only remove 2.2mm from piston.
This will depend on the block height.
Linish an old gudgeon pin to push into a rod & use this to check how much you need to remove of the piston.

_________________
A little knowledge is a dangerous thing.
www.datsport.com

"R.I.P. Baz. 29 April 2022. Thank you for all your contributions to the Datsun community over the years. You will be missed." - OZDAT

I have the rods in order baz it's the rod caps I mixed up. Are tgey stamped too?

Also do you fly cut the piston tops for valve clearance once they are cut down?
Block height is stock. Never machined or bored. It's the w block simon rebuilt into this stanza and drive from canberra to sa and buy parts off you for it.

Getting rods this week. So hoping to get started on this soonish.

Will take pistons to shop to get pressed off but I have a couple last questions:

Can the gudgeon pins be reused?

Will the pistons need fly cuts for valve clearance? Worried if there's enough meat on pistons

Use the dummy pins, sit the head on with a used gasket.
Set valve timing. put plasticine on the pistons. turn engine by hand.
Cut the plasticine with razor blade & measure thickness.
.060" on inlet .080" exhaust & you will be safe.

_________________
A little knowledge is a dangerous thing.
www.datsport.com

"R.I.P. Baz. 29 April 2022. Thank you for all your contributions to the Datsun community over the years. You will be missed." - OZDAT

Thanks baz

Trying to reuse as much as possible.
Got new rod bearings rings and gaskets but hoping to reuse gudgeon pins, pistons and hone with crank left in (covered up very well)