OZDAT
http://www.ozdat.com.au/forum/

Muzz's 71 1600
http://www.ozdat.com.au/forum/viewtopic.php?t=34174		 Page 2 of 4
Author:  hkszpower [ Sun Mar 27, 2016 7:51 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Muzz's 71 1600
Nice work mate!
That powersteering conversion is the column still collapsable?
Author:  Muzdat [ Sun Mar 27, 2016 9:52 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Muzz's 71 1600
Jamie (Waterhouse) has assured me that it achieves the same outcome by using slip joints rather than the original concertina arrangement.
It looks like the weld on the smaller lower tube (down near the uni joint) is designed to sheer / break allowing the smaller tube to go up inside the larger tube.
The inner splined drive shafts are from the original collapsible unit so they slide inside each other.
Author:  RJB510 [ Tue Mar 29, 2016 8:11 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Muzz's 71 1600
That looks really good mate. You've done a fantastic job at building it. I'm keen to see more bits along the way.
How did you get +18 wheel offset on the front of the car with a 200b front end?
Author:  Muzdat [ Tue Mar 29, 2016 10:03 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Muzz's 71 1600
Thanks RJB510. Using the 15 inch Performance Superlites the spoke section would rub on the brake calliper with any offset greater than P18 In hindsight I should have used 16 inch wheels with a P35 offset and lower profile tyres but at the time I did not want to go lower than 55. If I had it would have saved a lot of heartache. To get it all under the wheel arch, the arch had to be moved out about 25mm without looking flared. This was achieved by slitting the guard and adding extra metal. I got the idea from SR20Datsun's post (Thanks' Nic)
Author:  datsonial [ Thu Mar 31, 2016 7:39 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Muzz's 71 1600
Muzdat wrote:
For the curious the wiring going through the bulk head of the rear foot well is for the under floor fuel pump/surge tank. This is the pump I have been using now for the past 9 months.
Nice rig mate,

Questions,
Any reason you upgraded from the original fuel setup?
Do you still have the old undercar gear I could buy off you?

I have bought a 044 pump and surge tank, but was originally going to set it up in the boot, I like the idea now of having it in that spot under the car..

Cheers
Author:  Muzdat [ Sat Apr 02, 2016 11:34 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Muzz's 71 1600
Hi Tim
You are doing a fantastic job of putting your project back together. Amazing fabrication.
The reason for the change in fuel setup was basically because I wanted a larger fuel tank.
As a secondary bonus, as you could imagine with the fuel pump inside the tank immersed in fuel, the new pump is now very quite.
I am willing to sell the old setup. PM sent

The surge tank setup has a Bosch 979 pump which has the same pumping pressure as the 044 (5 bar) but the 044 has a rated fuel delivery rate of 200 litres/hour whereas the 979 has a rated delivery of 165 litres/hour.
I am running the SR20DET in standard configuration and over the last 9 months since getting it mobile the 979 has always kept the required fuel up to the motor. Also, the 044 draws 15 amps and the 979 draws 10 amps, so if you don't have big HP modifications, you don't really need a 044 pump.
Keep in mind when selecting a fuel pump associated with a return line fuel system, that the standard return fuel system on an S15 has a working pressure of only 3 bar. It all works OK with a 5 bar pump because the fuel regulator will compensate by being cracked open all the time. My new in-tank fuel pump is only 3 bar and works fine.
Author:  Muzdat [ Sat Apr 02, 2016 1:28 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Muzz's 71 1600
Seeing this is the place of sharing our experiences' to collectively gain wisdom :lol: Here are a couple of electrical issues that I had. You can see in previous photos that I now have a SSS dash facia. I bought it second hand from Tokyo2you in Japan but I see that there are replicas out there now. I have now got full VDO instrumentation which brings its own challengers in making it fit and still look OEMish. I ended up cutting some of the plastic from the rear of it and fastening the gauges directly to the facia. Seems to work OK. The electrical problem started with the Tacho, it wouldn't work! After having it tested and found to be working OK I checked the tacho output from the ECU with an oscilloscope to see what the output was. The expected output waveform was there but only a couple of milli volts. As I have a Nistune daughter board fitted to the ECU so I contacted Pete Liebig. Pete was very heplfulll and gave me the advice I needed. This is the jem of wisdom that was not on my radar. Regarding the tacho issue - do you have a pull-up resistor fitted to the signal? They use an open collector driver in the ECU, so you need a pull-up to 12V. Anywhere between 1K and 10K usually works. I use 4.7K as a rule. That is all that was needed. The second issue came recently with the new fuel tank sender. I had bought an in tank modular kit from EFI Hardware in Melbourne (they make a lot of good stuff) and bought a different VDO fuel gauge that matched the resistance given for the new sender. When I did a test run on the gauge it went backwards. If you google fuel gauge going backwards you will get heaps of stuff however none of it was any use. At first I thought it was a polarity problem but it wasn't. I found that the VDO fuel gauge uses a rheostat that heats up to move the needle so it doesn't make any difference which direction the current is flowing. As the sender resistance wiper is an arc shape , it couldn't be turned upside down. I eventually found the device in the photo, the Gauge Wizard. The output of the device can be programmed to change the current to the meter to be the opposite of the sender. Not the direction of current but the amount, so the meter now works perfect. Also another nifty thing it does, because the new fuel tank is not a uniform shape you can programme various way points. In practical terms you put the sender arm in various positions e.g empty, quarter, half, three quarters and full, each time pushing a series of buttons. So now it has a linear output. It also has anti slosh facilities for voltage based gauges that the VDO gauge doesn't need because of the rheostat.

Attachments:
[ attachment ]
Guage wizard Mk3.jpg [ 839.82 KiB | Viewed 2628 times ]
Author:  RJB510 [ Sun Apr 03, 2016 11:37 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Muzz's 71 1600
Yep, you definitely need a resistor to boost the signal for the tacho.

I like the idea of that controller but i find it a bit strange what you are saying because it contradicts my experience.

I bought myself a vdo fuel gauge, and used the original Datsun fuel arm. I had that arm rewired to suit the ohms of the gauge (Because it was stuffed and needed doing anyway). Mine was initially reading backwards, but that was because they DID wire it back to front. I took it back and they reversed the polarity by swapping the wires over and it was good to go. It was a rheostat, worked like a potentiometer.

Are you saying that the new senders from VDO are different now? And did you get one with a switch so that you can now have a "low fuel" light? (unfortunately I couldn't get one of those as the Datsun sender doesn't have a switch to allow that).
Author:  SR20Datsun [ Mon Apr 04, 2016 10:26 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Muzz's 71 1600
Some good updates here.
Where did you get your tank made? Looks like a good piece of gear.
Author:  Muzdat [ Mon Apr 04, 2016 10:07 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Muzz's 71 1600
Quote:
I like the idea of that controller but i find it a bit strange what you are saying because it contradicts my experience.
I bought myself a vdo fuel gauge, and used the original Datsun fuel arm. I had that arm rewired to suit the ohms of the gauge (Because it was stuffed and needed doing anyway). Mine was initially reading backwards, but that was because they DID wire it back to front. I took it back and they reversed the polarity by swapping the wires over and it was good to go. Not rheostat at all, worked like a potentiometer.
Are you saying that the new senders from VDO are different now? And did you get one with a switch so that you can now have a "low fuel" light? (unfortunately I couldn't get one of those as the Datsun sender doesn't have a switch to allow that).
When I had the surge tank under the floor I was using a VDO gauge that (somewhat) matched the factory 1600 sender in the original fuel tank. The new in-tank kit from EFI Hardware (Melbourne) has a pump/sender from a GM (Commodore) I say GM because it has the standard sender resistance that US car companies are presently using which is Empty =39 ohms and full = 246 ohms. The VDO gauge that I am now using (Cat No 301.105) (which isn't the one with the low fuel warning light) which VDO sell as their US spec gauge has a resistance of Empty = 240 ohms and Full = 33 ohms. At the time of buying the new gauge I didn't pick up that it was reversed. Seems bizarre to me that VDO say it's a US spec gauge when it's reverse to that of the GM sender?
During this process I reversed the polarity and it made no difference which polarity I had on the gauge. Also, after about 10 minutes you could feel a bit of warmth from the casing which I suspect is the rheostat.

Attachments:
[ attachment ]
Fuel-Tank-EFI-Conversion-Kit-For-Alloy-Tank-250-to-310mm-High-With-Return-System_4699.jpg [ 14.24 KiB | Viewed 2591 times ]
Author:  Muzdat [ Mon Apr 04, 2016 10:25 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Muzz's 71 1600
SR20Datsun wrote:
Some good updates here.
Where did you get your tank made? Looks like a good piece of gear.
I had it made by an aluminium fabricator here in Newcastle. I gave him the car and he basically built it in the car.
Wasn't the cheapest way of doing it (paying by the hour) but I'm happy with the result. (70 litre tank with a quite pump) :D
Author:  RJB510 [ Mon Apr 04, 2016 10:27 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Muzz's 71 1600
It does use resistance wire, so to a point it would heat up if a current is applied to it. If you bought the sender new, then i'd guess that it should match the gauge. But I wouldn't think that it would work backwards!

Anyway, it's good to know that it is solved regardless!
Author:  Muzdat [ Sun Apr 10, 2016 9:20 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Muzz's 71 1600
Reading a few of the posts here where the owners are looking for the 'sleeper' look (as I was) and whether to paint the intercooler or not?
I did put a light dusting of black paint on it but just enough to take the chance of light reflection. After driving it for a few weeks I was polishing the front bumper and became aware of how many bugs were stuck in the intercooler. The solution that I came up with for the bugs also pretty much eliminates the need to paint the IC.
I used some left over black stainless steel gauze that was used on my front door security screen. It can be worked fairly easily with standard sheet metal tools and works a treat.

Attachments:
[ attachment ]
IMGP2401.JPG [ 1.38 MiB | Viewed 2574 times ]
[ attachment ]
IMGP2402.JPG [ 1.42 MiB | Viewed 2574 times ]
Author:  Dave [ Sun Apr 10, 2016 10:23 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Muzz's 71 1600
Looks very nice !

Strange request, but do you have any pics of the 1600 as it was before you started work on it ?

I'm another long-term Newcastle 1600 owner, used to do dirt sprints, motorkhanas, etc with the MG car club and was wondering if we've crossed paths at some point.
Author:  Muzdat [ Mon Apr 11, 2016 6:46 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Muzz's 71 1600
Hi Dave
I don't have many competition photos as most people didn't have a camera in their pocket like today.
For the young ones :) They are going over the 'dog leg' at Oran Park, 'Lake corner' (the 'Stop - Go' corner) at Amaroo Park and crossing the finish line at Nelsons Plains.

Attachments:
[ attachment ]
Oran Park.JPG [ 1.23 MiB | Viewed 2557 times ]
[ attachment ]
Amaroo Park.JPG [ 1.3 MiB | Viewed 2557 times ]
[ attachment ]
Nelsons Plains.jpg [ 1.26 MiB | Viewed 2557 times ]
Page 2 of 4 All times are UTC+11:00
Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Limited
https://www.phpbb.com/