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Roll cage photos http://www.ozdat.com.au/forum/viewtopic.php?t=34295 |
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Author: | Dave [ Fri Aug 05, 2016 12:09 pm ] |
Post subject: | Roll cage photos |
As the heading says, anyone got any photos of roll cages in a 1600 ? Particularly the front leg ? I'm looking to replace the alloy one in my car with a steel one so I can logbook it, everything is good except the front leg. The cage in the car now has too many bends in the front leg to meet CAMS requirements, so I'm curious how people run them. I have seen a few options, but they either involve dropping the front leg straight down from the dash (so partially obstructing the doorway) or cutting the dash and closely following the A-pillar. I would really like it to end up in the same place as the alloy cage (right in the front corner of the car, forward of where the accelerator pedal mounts to the floor), without cutting the dash - not sure if / how this can be achieved. So yeah, just looking for inspiration. |
Author: | lampy [ Fri Aug 05, 2016 4:49 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: Roll cage photos |
This is how i got my cage built. fitted the dash in afterwards. Was not to hard to make it look neat Attachment:
Attachment:
Attachment:
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Author: | SR20Datsun [ Mon Aug 08, 2016 10:07 am ] |
Post subject: | Re: Roll cage photos |
Nice Lampy. I assume that tubing coming from the firewall is for the dry sump? |
Author: | Dave [ Mon Aug 08, 2016 10:30 am ] |
Post subject: | Re: Roll cage photos |
Thanks ! I think between checking out cages in cars, google and trying to decipher the CAMS manual, I'm ready to have a crack at building one. |
Author: | lampy [ Mon Aug 08, 2016 11:14 am ] | |
Post subject: | Re: Roll cage photos | |
Nice Lampy. I assume that tubing coming from the firewall is for the dry sump?
Yep the line closest to the pedal box is the scavenge after it comes out of the oil cooler.The other line is the oil feed from the dry sump tank to the pump suction |
Author: | chimp [ Sun Sep 25, 2016 11:00 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: Roll cage photos |
At the end of the day' I just talk to the specialists. Bond or AGI. They are proven and know their stuff. |
Author: | Dave [ Mon Sep 26, 2016 11:04 am ] |
Post subject: | Re: Roll cage photos |
Yep, that's what I ended up doing, just got a "kit" cage. I'm now the proud owner of a pile of steel tube. I've changed my mind from the original post - rather than a basic cage just to get a logbook, I've gone with a more substantial cage in case I ever tackle door-to-door racing or tarmac rallying (not likely, but for the cost of a few extra bars I thought I may as well). Also decided to cut the dash and get the cage hard up against the "A" pillar rather than try to keep it clear of the dash. Attachment:
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Author: | hkszpower [ Mon Sep 26, 2016 12:57 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: Roll cage photos |
Are you going with a Sainz bar next to the A pillar leg |
Author: | Dave [ Mon Sep 26, 2016 1:28 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: Roll cage photos |
Nope, no Sainz bar Main hoop Front legs Windscreen bar Backstays / rear legs Dual diagonals in main hoop One diagonal (thinking of making that dual diagonals) in rear legs / backstays Harness bar Roof diagonal Main hoop to front leg reinforcement bars Intrusion bars Was going with bolted up cage, now going fully welded (but still bolt into the car). Dash and front screen are coming out to fit it properly. Open to any suggestions - I believe the above list makes the cage eligible for most forms of motorsport. |
Author: | Nate510 [ Mon Sep 26, 2016 10:31 pm ] | |||||
Post subject: | Re: Roll cage photos | |||||
Hi Dave, I'm building my 1600 specifically for classic tarmac so cage has been built to national series regulations under CAMS schedule "J". Although adding additional weight your safety needs to be number one. I would have liked to go Crome Molly but it would have been triple the price and I'm not building a 100k race car. http://docs.cams.com.au/Manual/GeneralR ... 2016-1.pdf One tip I do have is make sure you know you have your driving position locked in prior to setting the main hoop position. If I was to build another cage I would position the main hoop on top of where the floor plan steps up for the rear seat. I thought I had mine right but I can't angle the seat back far enough as it will clash with the harness bar. Also, definitely cut the dash and dash pad. Final finish will look much better and in the whole sceam of things, that's the easy part. Hope this helps.
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Author: | hkszpower [ Mon Sep 26, 2016 11:52 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: Roll cage photos |
There is a spec on the Cams manual to work out if you need sainz bar, I don't have it on my rally car which means no ARC or FIA events, but I can run all state level series. Worth adding some dimple plate to the A piller if you have the windscreen out. |
Author: | SR20Datsun [ Tue Sep 27, 2016 10:15 am ] |
Post subject: | Re: Roll cage photos |
Some good advice going on here. Does anyone have information on running a bar across the dash (underneath?) |
Author: | Dave [ Tue Sep 27, 2016 1:30 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: Roll cage photos |
Very good advice, thanks guys. I definitely won't be doing ARC or FIA events, so no Sainz bar needed. Nate, what category do you logbook the car for when using it in classic rallying ? One of the "3C" categories ? I was looking to do mine as "3J - Improved Production" but strictly speaking the 6 speed gearbox means it isn't eligible. There's always Sports Sedans, but that's a bit over the top for a relatively standard 1600 running an L-series engine..... Initially, I'll only be doing what I always have - supersprints / regularity etc. The driver for getting a logbook is that its getting harder to find events that accept unregistered / non-logbooked cars. The existing cage had its main hoop end up right in the corner of the rear footwell, hard up against the "step". I had no dramas with seat fitment so was going to do the new cage the same. Still toying with how to mount the main hoop, particularly access to weld the mounting foot on (old one was a bolt-in cage, so it was welded up out of the car), I was going to put a holesaw through the floor to drop the main hoop down for welding access, but not sure how I'll weld the mounting foot on when its tight in the corner of the rear footwell. I was thinking of making a boxed-in section so the bottom of the hoop is level with the top of the sill rather than the floor, welding on a mounting bit like the pic above would work. |
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