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1600 Front Brake Upgrade on 240k Struts?
http://www.ozdat.com.au/forum/viewtopic.php?t=34351		 Page 2 of 2
Author:  Dave [ Tue Oct 18, 2016 11:44 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: 1600 Front Brake Upgrade on 240k Struts?
http://www.eziautoparts.com.au/repair-kit-k785s.html

http://www.eziautoparts.com.au/protex-p ... b2014.html

Just rebuilt mine.
Author:  SR20Datsun [ Wed Oct 19, 2016 11:45 am ]
Post subject:  Re: 1600 Front Brake Upgrade on 240k Struts?
What is your location? If Victoria, I can make a few suggestions.
Author:  Woznaldo [ Sun Nov 27, 2016 5:29 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: 1600 Front Brake Upgrade on 240k Struts?
Dave wrote:
http://www.eziautoparts.com.au/repair-kit-k785s.html

http://www.eziautoparts.com.au/protex-p ... b2014.html

Just rebuilt mine.
Sorry for the late reply. I ended up getting everything from SWM. Paid a bit than the prices above, but happy I've got the right parts.

Did you split the calipers to do the rebuild or can you get one out at a time?

Woz
Author:  Coz22a [ Tue Nov 29, 2016 9:44 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: 1600 Front Brake Upgrade on 240k Struts?
I would recommend you split the caliper. My 240z calipers were full of gunk in the ports that transfer fluid from one side to the other.
I gave them a good clean out with a small test tube brush.
Author:  Woznaldo [ Sun Dec 18, 2016 6:13 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: 1600 Front Brake Upgrade on 240k Struts?
Coz22a wrote:
I would recommend you split the caliper. My 240z calipers were full of gunk in the ports that transfer fluid from one side to the other.
I gave them a good clean out with a small test tube brush.
I have done everything except the caliper rebuild (braided hoses, rear wheel cylinders and a few rigid lines too). They don't feel much better. I seem to have a fair bit of pedal travel? I have bleed the brakes a number of times now, but still can't get the firm pedal I'm looking for?

I'll rebuild the front calipers soon and see if things improve. The only other component that hasn't been examined is the Master Cylinder and Brake Booster.

I've got three other cars ('73 Jag XJ6, '88 Renault 5 GT Turbo and '98 WRX Hatch) and I've worked on all of their brake systems and was able to get a firm pedal without issue?
Author:  Dave [ Mon Dec 19, 2016 9:44 am ]
Post subject:  Re: 1600 Front Brake Upgrade on 240k Struts?
Woznaldo wrote:
Did you split the calipers to do the rebuild or can you get one out at a time?

Woz
I split the calipers and did a full rebuild (including new pistons). Once I got them apart, I was glad I did as there was plenty of gunk in them and the brake fluid passages aren't real big - would be easy to get blocked.

What size master cylinder are you running ?

I run 7/8" master and have a good firm pedal. I don't run a booster though.
Author:  Woznaldo [ Mon Dec 19, 2016 6:46 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: 1600 Front Brake Upgrade on 240k Struts?
I run a 7/8 master cylinder (with booster) also.

It might be that some air is trapped in the calipers due to crap in the internals?
Author:  Coz22a [ Mon Dec 19, 2016 8:08 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: 1600 Front Brake Upgrade on 240k Struts?
Try clamping all the flexible lines and see if you're get a good pedal.
This will help eliminate issues from your booster to the calipers / wheel cylinders.
If you get a good pedal, take 1 clamp off at a time and see when you start to get a bad pedal again.
I hope that make sense.

Cheers
Mick
Author:  Woznaldo [ Sun Mar 05, 2017 10:11 am ]
Post subject:  Re: 1600 Front Brake Upgrade on 240k Struts?
I thought I'd close out this thread (or at least part of it). Finally my brakes (Twin Sumitomo front, std Drum rear, 7/8 Master Cylinder with booster) are working really well. It would appear there were a number of issues, but there was also some errors that I made along the way. Here's a list of what was done:

- Rear Wheel Cylinders leaking - replaced
- Flexible hoses old - replaced with ADR braided versions
- Front Calipers old - rebuilt with seal kit and new pistons
- Various hard line fittings rounded off - that section of hard line replaced
- Master Cylinder leaking between circuits - MC replaced

What I learned along the way. If your brake fluid level drops below the bottom feed hole (i.e. empties) you MUST bleed the Master Cylinder. With small reservoirs, it's easy to do this during a bleed if you don't keep an eye on the reservoir level. I've had many cars, but the Datto is the first with bleed nipples on the MC, so it wasn't something I was accustomed to.

For now I will stick with the Twin Sumitomo setup as it is quite effective and I'm only running a mildly tuned L18. Thanks for everyone's help along the way.
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