gauge runs line into thermo housing .

Running hot in traffic is an indication of insufficient air flow.
Check what temp. your thermal fan is set to come on and if too high, adjust down if possible.
Running a lower temp. thermo is a possible fix but is not solving the original problem.

The mech gauge uses a replacement sensor which replaces the OE electrical sender.
Attached to the sensor, is a capilliary tube which is filled with alcohol.
The heat is transmitted from the sensor to the alcohol to the gauge which will read temp. at all times, not just when the engine is running
I find this feature excellent because after a couple of laps at Mallala, the coolant temp. soars when you park in the pits. I have my thermal fan wired to run at any time and it prevents astronomical engine temps. by creating airflow after shutdown.

_________________
Regards, Graeme
Just trying to help...
http://nissanman.shutterfly.com/
graemes@internode.on.net

hmmmm...sounds like a good idea:)
where would I buy such a thing in New Zealand?

The mech. temp. gauge I used was a VDO brand but there are dozens of others out there, cheaper but perhaps not as good in quality/reliability.
Make sure that the cap. tube is long enough for yor requirements, the gauges usually come with say 2 or 3 different cap. tube lengths.

The thermo fan is a Davies-Craig unit driven by a temp. sender set into a blind copper tube soldered into the top radiator tank.
This drives the standard Davies-Craig adjustable micro switch which drives a relay which drives the fan
I have the fan set to about 90 Deg. C on and it shuts off about 80.
It will stabilise the coolant temp to about 100 max. after a race and engine shutoff.
15 mins. later and the coolant is at 80 and fan shuts off

_________________
Regards, Graeme
Just trying to help...
http://nissanman.shutterfly.com/
graemes@internode.on.net

if the guages fluctuate - aparrently the voltage regulator may have had it.
i was searching the other day and i found some info on the Dime Quarterly site - it tells you how to locate and test the voltage regulator and how to clean the contacts - very easy. i cant recall the address but if u search google or altavista u will find it in the articles section

The site is: -
www.dimequarterly.tierranet.com/
Look under: -
Technical Dept.
Electrical.
"Temperature and fuel gauge servicing".

_________________
Regards, Graeme
Just trying to help...
http://nissanman.shutterfly.com/
graemes@internode.on.net

cool....found it....but it says to refer to figures 1,2,3....where are they?

Lots of good comments here.
Re fluctuating fuel & temp guages.
There is a thick black earth wire that is attached to the body adjacent to the bonnet release lever. Check that this terminal is clean and tight.
This is by far the major cause of gauge fluctuations in 1600s.
As previously stated. You must at least run a restrictor if thermostat is removed. This is to stop the water pump from cavitating, especially at higher RPMs. This has been proven under race conditions.
Tip. If your thermostat is not fitted with a bleed hole.
Drill a 3mm Dia hole at the outer edge of the edge of the t/stat (not on the sealing area) place this hole at the top, pointing towards the rocker cover.
This helps bleed air bubbles out of the head.

_________________
A little knowledge is a dangerous thing.
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