i have been offered a complete KA24de engine that is missing the loom and the ecu and the timing cover has a hole in it from an accident down the bottom neer where the oil pump goes and has inlet and exhaust manifolds for $660. the bloke said that it is out of a low mileage d22 navara .
is this a good deal? or is it a bit expencive? and does anyone recken the engine would be stuffed after the impact. i saw the engine but it was from a distance.
and will the DE head work with a bore of 86 mm or do i need to bore it out to 88/89mm?

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Chris Thomas

1971 1600, mild L18, 5 speed

All I want is less to do, more time to do it and higher pay for not getting it done.

Still want to know how the connection between the l20b crank and the ka24de bottom timing chain is managed, the L20b crank is a larger diameter than the inside of the Ka24de bottom timing gear. It just doesnt fit and is too thin if you bore it out to suit the crank size!

Does anyone know what they do?

ive read that you use the Z20 timing cover for the front of the L20B

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http://www.healingchambers.com.au

i havent looked into it too much but could you machine the nose of the crank where the sprocket goes?, or you could try a slightly larger chain pitch while keeping the ratio on both sprockets to give some more meat to machine?.
what size is the bore on the Z18/z20 timing sprockets?. and whats stopping me from running a ka24 crank in an L20b block? you can do it with a z24 crank so why not a ka24?

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Chris Thomas

1971 1600, mild L18, 5 speed

All I want is less to do, more time to do it and higher pay for not getting it done.

i found this link
http://www.ka-t.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=4156
it has some really detailed pics of the timing arangement for the KA24de engine

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Chris Thomas

1971 1600, mild L18, 5 speed

All I want is less to do, more time to do it and higher pay for not getting it done.

I have a KA24DE head with intake mini will part with for $200 but the D22 complete engine could work in your car to

what vehicle is it off? u13, D22? i thought that getting a complete engine would make it easier to do my ka/L hybird because i will have all the timing parts complete

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Chris Thomas

1971 1600, mild L18, 5 speed

All I want is less to do, more time to do it and higher pay for not getting it done.

Its off a U13. I don't have the chains. or front timing cover or the big sprocket but the rest of the parts are there even dissy

A lower timing sprocket that can be used is a toyota 22re single row (bored to fit the L/Z series crank snout diameter). There is not enough material on the ka24 lower sprocket.

bump

Does anyone know which head I should use the rwd or fwd ka24e head?
Ill be using a z22 block.

The combo Im interested in:

z22e block with 2mm overbore to 89mm
z20 crank 86mm stroke standard (id love 82mm stroke but offset welded/ground crankpins would be pricey)
z20E 152.5mm rods standard
ks24e pistons with shaved to 32mm from 34mm
2140cc and 1.773 rod/stroke ratio ( 1.86 if 82mm stroke @ 2041cc)

Head will have one larger inlet valve on the one not facing the exhaust valve.

All ka24e cylinder heads are the same up until 1994.5, when they enlarged the intake ports to facilitate the sidefeed injectors in the the D21 trucks.

FWD/RWD head casting is the same. FWD has a different valve cover for the cam driven distributor, and a cam with a distributor drive notch is all.

I have a couple 2140cc builds myself, its a good combo.

I havent seen a fwd ka24e head in a while, but the last cam bearing cap may need to be cut down, and a rwd cam (or cut fwd cam) and valve cover used for RWD conversion.

If the distributor mounting "cap" is seperate from the last cam bearing cap, then all you would have to do is remove it and use the other rwd parts. The fwd/rwd head casting (aside from the last cam bearing cap potentially) are identical. You can use rwd heads on fwd and vice versa.

In other words, it would be safe to buy up a fwd head and start building it.

just to clarify.

For interest's sake, here's my FWD head. Besides the dizzy drive cap extending rearwards, there are a number of other "protrusions' that are used to bolt stuff onto the engine. These should be easy enough to cut off though, for an extra half inch or so of firewall clearance. All pretty simple stuff, so I wouldn't stress too much about finding a RWD head. FWD one should be fine.

I vaguely recall seeing somewhere that there is a difference between FWD and RWD timing chain covers on the head ?

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1970 ex Group A Rally P510
1971 P510
1972 180B SSS
1965 SP310 Fairlady
1966 SP311 Fairlady

That is a dual cam fwd head, my last comments were directed toward ka24e (single cam), jfyi.

There are 2 different types of RWD dual cam heads, both are different from the FWD dual cam head.

3 types ka24de:

RWD S-chassis (US 240sx)
RWD D22 truck
FWD U13

The RWD heads share the same intake/exhaust manifold pattern and the manifolds are interchangable. The key difference between these two heads is the distributor drive. The 240sx head has a distributor drive on the front upper cover, the D22 head does not (it has a single cam style in the front cover).

The FWD head is like the D22 head in that it does not have a distributor drive in the front upper cover, but the water outlet is on the exhaust side of the head instead of the intake side. So, RWD intake manifolds will not fit a FWD head without a fair amount of modification.

FWD dual cam head is a good candidate for a hybrid, but you must be aware that you will have to come up with your own custom intake manifold (you cannot use a RWD 240sx manifold). The upper intake manifold from the FWD can be used as a base to create your own.

DeviousKA

Any idea on which head would be the better performer for fat midrange torque?
That is if they both had the same compression eg. ka24de 16v vs ka24e 12v

I understand the biggest issue is the low comp of the 12v so needs carefully
designed custom pistons.