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| Engine Rebuilt Quote, what do you think? http://www.ozdat.com.au/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4209 |
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| Author: | Jbwetzels [ Fri Jan 28, 2005 8:47 am ] |
| Post subject: | Engine Rebuilt Quote, what do you think? |
Hi all can people give me their opinion on this quote for a rebuild should i do more should i forget bits where can i get better prices on forgies? Dismantle long motor for reconditioning, chemically clean all components inspect and measure sizes & useability, bore and hone to suitable oversize as required grind crankshaft to sutable undersize. eg 10/10 machine engine block face for flatness and trueness. resize conrods x6 reco head suit ulp fuel kit k/line guide liners insert as required new nitrited valves. surface mill face, reprofile cam shaft reface followers. final clean all components reassemble to long motor paint as required, suooky akk engine parts for reco piston assembilies, ring moly, piston pins. main be/s bearings full gasket set timing gears as nesseccary timing chain, timing chain tensioner, runners, melch plugs, oil pump kit $2500.00 Addtional work forge piston $280-$300 per piston o/ring block $120.00 Thanks Joe |
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| Author: | Tazholio [ Fri Jan 28, 2005 9:40 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
$2,500 !!!!! what engine are you doing this to? and WHY? |
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| Author: | Jbwetzels [ Fri Jan 28, 2005 10:18 am ] |
| Post subject: | a |
l28 turbo, is that an accurate quote, and the reason is i want to get some serious ponys out of it |
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| Author: | proL18 [ Fri Jan 28, 2005 10:30 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
i'd expect that price is they were doing dummy assemblies and checking for squish volumes using plasticine etc etc. but they haven't quoted that so it sounds like your std reco engine to me. $2500 is a bit steep for such a "common" aussie delivered engine. |
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| Author: | zac510 [ Fri Jan 28, 2005 11:09 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
There is a lot of machining in that list, like machining of the block face. Some rebuilders will give you a cheaper quote but won't bother to machine the block or crankshaft. Notice also doing an oil pump rebuild and reconditioning the head too which, with new k-line guides and facing is worth 300-400 alone. I'd say it's reasonable for the price. You could go somewhere that won't do all that machining work but will give you a cheaper donk with just fresh rings and bearings in it. Are you sure you need o-ring of block and forged pistons? |
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| Author: | thehelix112 [ Fri Jan 28, 2005 2:04 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
$2500 seems like quite a good price for the work to me. I'd be asking how many dry-builds it includes just to check. Apparently a good engine builder will dummy/dry build two or three times to get everything right. I'd definitely be going the forged pistons and o-ring block. Much easier to do it now then get it pulled down and do it again later. I'd also be ensuring the entire rotating mass is balanced, this includes crank, rods, pistons, gudeon pins, flywheel, clutch. Go for it! Dave |
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| Author: | Tazholio [ Fri Jan 28, 2005 10:39 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
buy a new engine |
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| Author: | 200BCoupe [ Fri Jan 28, 2005 11:49 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
u could pic up a half cut of a silvia with a nice SR20 or something like that for that price lol |
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| Author: | fr3ak [ Sat Jan 29, 2005 12:44 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
HaHA! When i asked my engine builder what a... engine would cost to build, he said: "Mate, for the money, you'd be better off buying a.. one of those... ahhh... new Nissan turbo engines." -SR20? "That's it" So guess what i did! Talked him down to "a couple of grand" for the L18 build. Luckily i have a 'partner in crime' helping to fund the project... |
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| Author: | thehelix112 [ Sat Jan 29, 2005 1:30 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
You get what you pay for and a prepped turbo L28 is going to be good for a fairly serious amount of HP. More so (and for longer) than any unopened SR20. Dave |
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| Author: | LIndsay [ Sat Jan 29, 2005 11:39 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
My last motor was a Z24, it cost $750 for a head service, hone block, machine block surface, linish crank (supplied 4 standard second hand pistons). parts supplied was, timing chain kit, full engine gasket kit, rings,bearings. etc. quoted $600 to reassemble, but chose to do my self. your quote differs with. I assume they are boring for new pistons (although pistons are outside quote). You have supply and fit new valves. Questions, the cam reprofile, what do they mean - they regrind cams, what about lash pads. O ring the block, are u using a copper head gasket, is that in the quote, are you balancing anything. |
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| Author: | Jbwetzels [ Mon Jan 31, 2005 11:14 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
pistons are supplied but i have to pay extra for forgies, all i know about the new ones is that they are acl, i am not sure about the cam or lash pads what should i be asking them about it? the o-ring is an additional cost yes it is copper head gasket, i dont know about balancing what should be balanced? |
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| Author: | thehelix112 [ Mon Jan 31, 2005 11:18 am ] | ||
| Post subject: | |||
i dont know about balancing what should be balanced?
Everything that moves! Ala:
I'd also be ensuring the entire rotating/reciprocating mass is balanced, this includes crank, rods, pistons, gudeon pins, flywheel, clutch.
Dave
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| Author: | Jbwetzels [ Tue Feb 01, 2005 7:49 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
ok well i have talked to my builder and everything that moves is getting balanced, but he also suggested a stud kit for the bottom end, i reckon this is going to be worth it but what is everyone elses view on it? |
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| Author: | thehelix112 [ Tue Feb 01, 2005 10:30 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
ARP make mains stud kits and head studs kits and I'd be getting both of these and if possible, getting ARP bolts in the rods. Just more additional cost though. Dave |
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